@Mark Boyce posted:I finished more church windows. They are going faster now. I have enough of the white sections cut for the other 5 small windows. There are 6 large windows and 2 doors to do. You can really see the texture of the Plastruct brick material @chris a suggested. I like it.
The texture is there, but doesn't show up for the camera laying flat on the workbench.
Most excellent!
Peter
@Mark Boyce posted:I finished more church windows. They are going faster now. I have enough of the white sections cut for the other 5 small windows. There are 6 large windows and 2 doors to do. You can really see the texture of the Plastruct brick material @chris a suggested. I like it.
The texture is there, but doesn't show up for the camera laying flat on the workbench.
Impressive project Mark!! Looking GREAT!
Cheers, Dave
Thank you, Tom, Peter, Dave!
I cut the 6 tall window frames just now. I cut the top off a window and taped it to the bottom of another to form a tall window. Then I checked that against my window openings, and it fit! Then I used my original template to mark some more .005" styrene. I just slid the templated down to match how I did the taped window sections and marked that.
Once I cut out the first one, I tested it against the 'stained glass' window. Since that checked out, I marked the rest, and cut them in line with the first one.
I'm ready to put them together on the wall sections.
Fantastic work Mark!
Great work Mark, it is nice to see things come together the easy way!
Darrell, Mike, thank you.
No update on the layout or church construction today.
This project is really a plan as I go trek. I have just been deciding how I am going to do the next phase as I come to it, or close to it. So far, I have gotten away with it. 
I finished all 21 windows. I kept the same sandwich of 1. paper 'stained glass', 2. clear plastic, 3. white frame all between the lauan and Plastruct brick, but have switched methods of attaching as I went. At first, I laid each layer down and glued it to the next until done. For the last 3 tall windows, I taped the paper, clear, white together; then glued that between the lauan and brick. I did variations in between. All methods left a very slight bump out on the brick because the rest of the wall away from the windows was glued directly to the lauan. I know it's there, but I don't know that anyone else would notice, so I'm satisfied. The windows do get gray sills. I am thinking I will leave them off until the walls are all glued together, so they don't get in the way of clamping and get broken off.
On to the doors. The photograph of the prototype shows the doors to be dark stained wood. I sliced the brick siding away from where doors would go, then I pried the top layer of lauan away to give enough recess for the doors to be glued directly to the remaining lauan. That should be sturdy.
The doors appeared to be dark vertical boards. The front double doors had 3 narrow windows on each. I'm not even going to attempt that, so all the doors will be the same. This siding measures to be 6" wide 'boards'. Here they are with some maple stain. The prototype looked darker, but the only stain I had on hand that was darker was mahogany. A test showed to be darker than what I want. I can darken these a bit later, but this photograph shows how that worked out.
I cut out a base from lauan when I was cutting the walls, so next up is to start standing up adjacent walls and reinforcing corners. Then it should start to look like something.
Thank you for looking.
@Mark Boyce posted:This project is really a plan as I go trek. I have just been deciding how I am going to do the next phase as I come to it, or close to it. So far, I have gotten away with it.
I finished all 21 windows. I kept the same sandwich of 1. paper 'stained glass', 2. clear plastic, 3. white frame all between the lauan and Plastruct brick, but have switched methods of attaching as I went. At first, I laid each layer down and glued it to the next until done. For the last 3 tall windows, I taped the paper, clear, white together; then glued that between the lauan and brick. I did variations in between. All methods left a very slight bump out on the brick because the rest of the wall away from the windows was glued directly to the lauan. I know it's there, but I don't know that anyone else would notice, so I'm satisfied. The windows do get gray sills. I am thinking I will leave them off until the walls are all glued together, so they don't get in the way of clamping and get broken off.
On to the doors. The photograph of the prototype shows the doors to be dark stained wood. I sliced the brick siding away from where doors would go, then I pried the top layer of lauan away to give enough recess for the doors to be glued directly to the remaining lauan. That should be sturdy.
The doors appeared to be dark vertical boards. The front double doors had 3 narrow windows on each. I'm not even going to attempt that, so all the doors will be the same. This siding measures to be 6" wide 'boards'. Here they are with some maple stain. The prototype looked darker, but my only stain I had on hand that was darker was mahogany, which a test showed to be darker for what I want. I can darken these a bit later, but this photograph shows how that worked out.
I cut out a base from lauan when I was cutting the walls, so next up is to start standing up adjacent walls and reinforcing corners. Then it should start to look like something.
Thank you for looking.
Mark, your work looks phenomenal. It really looks like the stained glass is real & the way you sandwiched it gives a great 3-dimensional look. I look forward to seeing it finished but I know your a perfectionist so no hurry. I'm sure when the church is completed it will be truly awesome.
@Mark Boyce posted:This project is really a plan as I go trek. I have just been deciding how I am going to do the next phase as I come to it, or close to it. So far, I have gotten away with it.
I finished all 21 windows. I kept the same sandwich of 1. paper 'stained glass', 2. clear plastic, 3. white frame all between the lauan and Plastruct brick, but have switched methods of attaching as I went. At first, I laid each layer down and glued it to the next until done. For the last 3 tall windows, I taped the paper, clear, white together; then glued that between the lauan and brick. I did variations in between. All methods left a very slight bump out on the brick because the rest of the wall away from the windows was glued directly to the lauan. I know it's there, but I don't know that anyone else would notice, so I'm satisfied. The windows do get gray sills. I am thinking I will leave them off until the walls are all glued together, so they don't get in the way of clamping and get broken off.
On to the doors. The photograph of the prototype shows the doors to be dark stained wood. I sliced the brick siding away from where doors would go, then I pried the top layer of lauan away to give enough recess for the doors to be glued directly to the remaining lauan. That should be sturdy.
The doors appeared to be dark vertical boards. The front double doors had 3 narrow windows on each. I'm not even going to attempt that, so all the doors will be the same. This siding measures to be 6" wide 'boards'. Here they are with some maple stain. The prototype looked darker, but the only stain I had on hand that was darker was mahogany. A test showed to be darker than what I want. I can darken these a bit later, but this photograph shows how that worked out.
I cut out a base from lauan when I was cutting the walls, so next up is to start standing up adjacent walls and reinforcing corners. Then it should start to look like something.
Thank you for looking.
Mark, your planning, finesse, and patience is paying off. Keep up the great work!
Gene
POSSIBLE 3d PRINT OF WOODEN WINDOW FRAME,
let me know. I can add the rectangular window frames too.
Mark your work is just outstanding! It is nice to see things are smoothly moving forward! I hope I can do that good when it comes time for me to build something!
I can add in and 3D print the infill bricks around the arch,
Thank you, Dave, Gene, Alan, Mike!!
I am a perfectionist to a point. Then I say, good enough, because I have years' worth of projects waiting to be started! The rest of the layout has stagnated on the Sanky Wanky Coffee Co and Westminster Church projects. 
Actually, that is a nice place to be.
Alan, your drawings look great! Thank you! The windows are all actually in rectangular openings in the walls, so no need for bricks to fit in an arch. That said, I don't know that I want to redo them. I'm leaning towards leaving everything scratchbuilt and say I did it all myself. Thank you!!!
Mark
I figured I was too late to your party! so it's fine.
Alan, May I keep you in mind for future projects?
of course, Mark.
I think the reason the arches are in rectangular frames is because of the cost to brick around the arches.
A lot of brick soaps!
Alan, thank you! I totally agree about the less expensive brickwork. I think it is pretty evident that the building was built as a low-cost protestant brick church. Others in the area of the same vintage are bricked around arches, have at least one larger stained glass window, and have a standard steeple with bell. Also, when the need arose to expand, it wasn't conducive to expand this building. Therefore, a two story fellowship hall/classroom building was built on the left side, then this building was razed. A larger sanctuary was built in it's place.
I thought I would take a couple photographs as the church walls are being glued together. The glue is dry on some, some are being clamped until dry, and some I just leaned into place. I only had one light handy, so one photo has the light in the main building and one in the “steeple”. Of course it shows up way too bright, but not bad for a quick check.
Looks really good Mark. Dimmer interior lighting might also enhance the exterior outline.
Jay
Thank you, Jay. Yes, the light I was using was an LED flashlight! 😃 It was as a supervisor I had long ago used to say, “quick and dirty” 😄My LED lighting paraphernalia is all in a box under the layout.
Hey Mark! You have a little light bleed threw along the bottom of your building! LOL I am just playing with you!
I think you're doing an amazing job and it is going to look wonderful on your layout!
Thank you, Mike!
😄 Yes indeed I noticed the severe light leak at the bottom of the building too! 😄 Sitting on the glass plate that has silicone feet underneath made for a cool looking effect! 😎 Notice the cool roof effect above the single story entrance too. 😉
Mark,
You are one talented modeler and a role model for all of us. Thank you for sharing.
Rubin
Mark, the church looks amazing! I hope you’re happy with the outcome and having it on your layout takes you back to another time in your life! That’s what it’s all about, making your layout yours!
Thanks for sharing as always!
Mike
Thank you, Rubin, Mike!
Rubin, like others who have posted their work on the forum, and those of us who have completed our time in the workforce (me for one) or are veterans in their fields, I try to learn from my mistakes and how to cover up some mistakes. Certainly trial and error. Maybe that is the definition of talented. hmmm...
Mike, yes it does have extra meaning when our models remind us of good times from our past. This December 7th will be Kim and my 40th anniversary of that snowy day where we were married in this long gone building. She has seen the project sitting there, but hasn't commented on it being the original Westminster Church. In fact, when she first saw the mockup, she only commented that it is an interesting building. If she realizes what it is, she hasn't let on. I hope to have it finished for our anniversary. With a month and a half left, I should be able to do it. Barring another trip to the hospital and recouperation, that is!
That’s an excellent target Mark. You’ll make the deadline.
Mark that is going to be so cool once your wife realizes what it is and how special it is to both of you!
Nice job on the build Mark. Any chance of a snow scene for the full effect of that special day.
Thank you, Mike, Dave!
Yes, it will be a nice surprise! Snow scene! That is an interesting suggestion! Eight scale inches would certainly make any low details unnecessary. 😄🎅🏻
I’ve got one whole area off the beaten path that I have thought about giving a fine dusting of snow to. I model the fall so it wouldn’t look to out of place. With 8” you certainly wouldn’t see much as far a ground cover if any. Other than a bush or hedge. I remember viewing an HO layout that modeled early winter. It was quite convincing with a dreary look about it. No snow. Fallen brown leaves and what looked like just frozen ground. The trees were armatures with Super Tree material added to the branches. No foliage. A bit of work to make a convincing tree especially as you increase the size to O. I really liked the look and to pull off a fully sceniced layout. It may have been a little more cost effective.
Thank you for the comment, Dave! I forgot to reply until I saw it now. A fine dusting of snow is all I have done for temporary Christmas layouts, so I didn't try to make it very realistic. I have seen winter trees and agree it would be hard to make convincing fine branches. Yes, some folks have succeeded very well.
I know this isn't Western Maryland, but I need to post it here. Pat (harmonyards) showed my K-Line Hudson among many others on this thread Hudsons Galore...Tales From Harmon Shops I received it the middle of last week. Pat did a great job, including repainting to cover the light weathering the first owner had applied. You can check the link above to see what he had to say about it, so I will just say it looks, runs, sounds, smokes great. I tried running it pulling a nice set of Lionel Pulmans I received from forum member @chris a but had trouble with a switch that kept derailing the observation car. They ran great after I installed LED lighting, so I think the problem is the switch. I parked them on the back of the upper loop to show them off.
Here is a video of the Hudson pulling a train of 27 cars up and down my 4+% grades. Yes indeed, it is a stump puller as Pat says. I'm amazed that one motor can pull all of this. The upgrade is at about 1:20 into the video. Hat's off to Pat! He's the one that did it all. Disclaimer: I have the smoke turned off because I don't run smoke in the house.
On another note, town planning, the walls are all glued together on my scratch built church. I decided to place it on the layout to see how it looks. I decided to rearrange the buildings and take some photographs. I discovered I need to place lower buildings in the middle rear so I can see the two switches. I have had trouble there. I could mount a mirror up high to give a view of the area in question, but this works especially to see how it looks. I pulled the car dealer, added a one story building I had forgotten about, and added the NYC operating platform since the NYC Hudson is now back. I also rearranged the roads. on the right. The house in the right foreground is only a one-story placeholder to give a feal for the scene.
Thank you for looking.
One train, two levels, and still chasing it's tail! LOL! That is fantastic Mark! Must be very satisfying to be able to run a long train when you feel like it, and to be able to pull that train up the 4% grade like that, simply wonderful! Pat did a great job on that Hudson.
I think your town is looking good and the church is coming along very nicely!
@Mark Boyce posted:On another note, town planning, the walls are all glued together on my scratch built church. I decided to place it on the layout to see how it looks. I decided to rearrange the buildings and take some photographs. I discovered I need to place lower buildings in the middle rear so I can see the two switches. I have had trouble there. I could mount a mirror up high to give a view of the area in question, but this works especially to see how it looks. I pulled the car dealer, added a one story building I had forgotten about, and added the NYC operating platform since the NYC Hudson is now back. I also rearranged the roads. on the right. The house in the right foreground is only a one-story placeholder to give a feal for the scene.
Thank you for looking.
You’re on a roll Mark, looking good. It’s always helpful, if possible, to have a visual on your switches. When I placed my buildings on the layout I made sure I could see the switch lights. Fastrack may not be the better choice for a permanent layout, but I do like the switch lighting.
Gene
@Mark Boyce posted:I know this isn't Western Maryland, but I need to post it here.
Here is a video of the Hudson pulling a train of 27 cars up and down my 4+% grades. Yes indeed, it is a stump puller as Pat says. I'm amazed that one motor can pull all of this. The upgrade is at about 1:20 into the video. Hat's off to Pat! He's the one that did it all. Disclaimer: I have the smoke turned off because I don't run smoke in the house.
On another note, town planning, the walls are all glued together on my scratch built church. I decided to place it on the layout to see how it looks. I decided to rearrange the buildings and take some photographs. I discovered I need to place lower buildings in the middle rear so I can see the two switches. I have had trouble there. I could mount a mirror up high to give a view of the area in question, but this works especially to see how it looks. I pulled the car dealer, added a one story building I had forgotten about, and added the NYC operating platform since the NYC Hudson is now back. I also rearranged the roads. on the right. The house in the right foreground is only a one-story placeholder to give a feal for the scene.
Thank you for looking.
Hey @Mark Boyce! Instead of sacrificing where you want to place buildings just to see the switches, maybe have a switch panel. This way you'll know what direction the switch is thrown without having to see the physical switch itself.
I've come across the same issue on my layout plan. I have several switches that I won't be able to see so I figured the next best thing is a switch board.
@T-Bone1214 posted:Hey @Mark Boyce! Instead of sacrificing where you want to place buildings just to see the switches, maybe have a switch panel. This way you'll know what direction the switch is thrown without having to see the physical switch itself.
I've come across the same issue on my layout plan. I have several switches that I won't be able to see so I figured the next best thing is a switch board.
Here is another idea, see the video clip below. It's a simple 3 wire led device that attaches to and is powered by most any switch. It is intended to provide remote indication for concealed switches, and you can install it anywhere you want.
@Rod Stewart posted:Here is another idea, see the video clip below. It's a simple 3 wire led device that attaches to and is powered by most any switch. It is intended to provide remote indication for concealed switches, and you can install it anywhere you want.
Rod:
What is the above device called, dies it come with a wiring diagram and where is it available.
Thank you.
Randy; it's my own design and I call it simply a trackside indicator. Below is two views of the housing, plus a view of the simple pcb that fits inside. There is only 6 components, 3 if you are using DC power. I 3D print the housings and buildup the pcbs as needed. I have about 6 on my layout at present. I can provide full instructions and hookup drawings as needed. You can contact me offline for more info.
Rod
I apologize for slightly side-tracking this topic with the indicator posts above! Time to get it “back on track” LOL. Mark, what’s next on the planning table?
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