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Thank you, Darrell, Gene, Tom, Rod, Randy!

I actually have the Z-Stuff turnout controllers and the push buttons are temporarily placed on the front of the layout frame.  The plan is to have about 3 local panels with the button lights showing.  My trouble is that I don't remember to throw all the switches I want when I want to change routes.  I do have the capability to setup routes in the DCS AIU, but haven't done it yet.  I still think I want to have a visual.  The one problem with this layout is that the switches on the upper level for the passing track and the tops of the two inclines are near the backdrop, and at 30 inches in depth at 50 inches above the floor, I have trouble reaching if I do have a derailment.  I have had them with certain cars because 3 of those switches were in the last batch I bought.  After installing and wiring, I discovered the plastic frog is a smidgen higher than the rails.  That doesn't bother my engines, but does bother lighter lit cars having pickup rollers.  I hope my solution is to shave the plastic frog down on them.  The trouble is, I don't want to remove them from the layout, so it could be a painful job.  I could try the Dremel, but will have to watch I don't melt the plastic.  I'm not very handy with it. 

Rod, you didn't side track at all.  You presented your solution to the problem I brought up.  Your indicator lights are really nice looking, and yes you could put them anywhere.  That's a very slick design.

@Rod Stewart posted:

Randy; it's my own design and I call it simply a trackside indicator. Below is two views of the housing, plus a view of the simple pcb that fits inside. There is only 6 components, 3 if you are using DC power. I 3D print the housings and buildup the pcbs as needed. I have about 6 on my layout at present. I can provide full instructions and hookup drawings as needed. You can contact me offline for more info.

BuildsS x S View

Rod

With apologies Mark.....

Rod- those are nice. I scratch built some dwarf signals several years ago but never finished the project, or installed them. I bought cheap kits from We-Honest.

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Bob, no need for apologies.  You have been on this thread since the beginning, I think.  You know how we like to get off track...but on related topics.  Your dwarf signal looks great!

I forgot to add what is up next.  I want to cut strips of brick material and fit them in on the back and sided of the turret walls.  I'll do the dame on the inside of the walls above where the roof will go.  Then I'll put in the window sills and 'cement' tops to the walls.  Bob probably knows what they are called.  I did see that, but have forgotten.  I need to make a cross for the front and put in braces on the upper walls to hold up the roof.

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I also need to do some experimenting with the Hudson to figure out why the sound drops out momentarily on occasion.  I think it is track, signal, ground, or something on my layout and not the engine itself.  It worked great for Pat.  Along with that, I need to see why my observation car is derailing so I can run the Hudson with the passenger train.

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@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, no need for apologies.  You have been on this thread since the beginning, I think.  You know how we like to get off track...but on related topics.  Your dwarf signal looks great!

I forgot to add what is up next.  I want to cut strips of brick material and fit them in on the back and sided of the turret walls.  I'll do the dame on the inside of the walls above where the roof will go.  Then I'll put in the window sills and 'cement' tops to the walls.  Bob probably knows what they are called.  I did see that, but have forgotten.  I need to make a cross for the front and put in braces on the upper walls to hold up the roof.



I also need to do some experimenting with the Hudson to figure out why the sound drops out momentarily on occasion.  I think it is track, signal, ground, or something on my layout and not the engine itself.  It worked great for Pat.  Along with that, I need to see why my observation car is derailing so I can run the Hudson with the passenger train.

Lintels.......

Some may have noticed that the chuff drops out intermittently on the video.  I setup the Christmas board outside and ran the Hudson with both smoke off and smoke on for quite some time.  In either case, the chuff never cutout even once.  So, the problem is with my layout and not Pat's work.  The engine is fine.  Hooray!  I'll post one or more videos later after they are uploaded.  I'm sorry I didn't resolve this ahead of showing the video here on the forum.  Great job, Pat!!!!

Also, I tried putting my passenger cars on the track, but they nee 054 curves to not bind and pull the wheels off the rails.  No go on the 048 curve with an 036 section at each end to fit on a 4-foot wide board.

Last edited by Mark Boyce

Morning Mark, sorry I have been busy for the last week getting projects done around the house. The engine looks beautiful, sorry about the sound dropping out and the cars derailing! But I am sure you will get it figured out. I like the idea of being able to see the switches, but sometimes you just cant make that happen.

As for the buildings as many say its your layout your world so put them where you want! The church is looking great and it looks like your going to meet the deadline! Keep up the wonderful work!

Thank you, Mike!

Not to worry about the engine not running as I had hoped.  I have proven that it has to do with issues on my layout and not Pat's fine workmanship, so that makes me feel good!!

Here is the video I mentioned yesterday with the K-Line Hudson running outdoors on a single loop of track.  The sound never cut out during 15 minutes of running whether I had the smoke on or off.

This evening, I placed it on the layout using the level lower loop.  The sound cuts out randomly.  By that I mean sometimes it cuts out once per lap, sometimes more than once per lap.  The cut outs happen at different spots on the loop, never the same place twice.  It is obvious to me it has something to do with my layout, which I will work out after I fix the switch that makes the observation car truck derail.

Thank you, Mike!  It still cuts out at random intervals even when I disconnected the TIU on the layout thinking there could be interference of some sort and ran with only TMCC.  I ran a TMCC K-Line Pacific, Legacy GP7, and Williams ERR RS3 on the same track with the same train, and they ran fine.  I still think there is something on the layout causing it.  However, Pat is going to get it to see what happens for him.

Yes, it has been a while since I last posted.  I have been able to make some progress on Westminster Church slowly but surely.  A week ago, I finished gluing brick material on the inside walls that will be seen above the roofs.  On the tower, you can see I chose to glue the material in, then cut to shape.  I don't know that it was the best, easiest way to do it.  If I was to do it over again, I think I would measure and cut all the notches before gluing.  Well, it's done, regardless! 

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I thought I had taken photographs of the cutouts done, the little brick strips added to the sides of the notches, but I see I didn't!  Oh well!  You get the idea, I'm sure.

I drilled holes in the base to add the wiring.  I won't have to worry much about concealing the wires since the windows aren't clear.  No interior on this model.  I also added braces right under the brick material on the inside walls to hold up the removable roofs.  I made them go from corner to corner to try to eliminate as much light leak as possible.  I'm sure there will be places I will have to block light leak later on.

The last couple days, I cut out roof sections from the same 1/4" lauan as I used for the rest of the project.  I made them just loose enough to slip a knife edge down to lift them off.  I may put a chimney and maybe an HVAC unit on the main roof that I can use as handles.  It will need something to break up the monotony of a large roof anyway.

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If the tower looks to be not quite square, it is because it IS NOT quite square.  I don't know how that happened, but decided it isn't really noticeable from the side so I won't rebuild it.  My second attempt may end up being worse than the first!! 

I still need to paint the lintels at the top of the walls.  I decided it would be too hard to spray paint and cover all the sides of the little parts.  I was thinking of using gravel for the roof.  I have various sizes and tones since I have modeled in smaller scales as well.  I need to make the cross out of styrene strips.

Last week, Kim finally guessed that this is a model of the old Westminster we were married in 40 years ago.  She thought it was a good representation even though I pointed out it is compressed in both length and width.

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Last edited by Mark Boyce

Nice work Mark. If the roof is a snug fit. You could try gluing a piece of quality steel to the underside of the roof. Then use a magnet on the end of a stick to remove it. Sort of like removable coal loads for hoppers. I watch a lot of Howard Zane videos on You Tube. He was asked why so many of his scratch built structures always feature a cuppola on the roof.  His response was. So you have something to grab to remove the roof.

I do a bit of scratchbuilding. No matter how square you think you have cut and assembled something. The real test comes when you put the roof on. Tough to get a perfect fit. You learn to disguise it and truth be told. No one will probably ever notice it. I have a small resin shack near the layouts edge. It’s been there for 25 years. It has a molded in tarpaper roof. I glued it on backwards. If never rains in my model Train world so it hasn’t leaked yet.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Last week, Kim finally guessed that this is a model of the old Westminster we were married in 40 years ago.  She thought it was a good representation even though I pointed out it is compressed in both length and width.

Looks excellent Mark! Because of its significant meaning, it’s well worth your effort. BTW, how often will someone care to have a complete top down perspective and notice it’s not completely square? It looks just fine.

Gene

@Mark Boyce posted:

Yes, it has been a while since I last posted.  I have been able to make some progress on Westminster Church slowly but surely.  A week ago, I finished gluing brick material on the inside walls that will be seen above the roofs.  On the tower, you can see I chose to glue the material in, then cut to shape.  I don't know that it was the best, easiest way to do it.  If I was to do it over again, I think I would measure and cut all the notches before gluing.  Well, it's done, regardless! 

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I thought I had taken photographs of the cutouts done, the little brick strips added to the sides of the notches, but I see I didn't!  Oh well!  You get the idea, I'm sure.

I drilled holes in the base to add the wiring.  I won't have to worry much about concealing the wires since the windows aren't clear.  No interior on this model.  I also added braces right under the brick material on the inside walls to hold up the removable roofs.  I made them go from corner to corner to try to eliminate as much light leak as possible.  I'm sure there will be places I will have to block light leak later on.

The last couple days, I cut out roof sections from the same 1/4" lauan as I used for the rest of the project.  I made them just loose enough to slip a knife edge down to lift them off.  I may put a chimney and maybe an HVAC unit on the main roof that I can use as handles.  It will need something to break up the monotony of a large roof anyway.

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If the tower looks to be not quite square, it is because it IS NOT quite square.  I don't know how that happened, but decided it isn't really noticeable from the side so I won't rebuild it.  My second attempt may end up being worse than the first!! 

I still need to paint the lintels at the top of the walls.  I decided it would be too hard to spray paint and cover all the sides of the little parts.  I was thinking of using gravel for the roof.  I have various sizes and tones since I have modeled in smaller scales as well.  I need to make the cross out of styrene strips.

Last week, Kim finally guessed that this is a model of the old Westminster we were married in 40 years ago.  She thought it was a good representation even though I pointed out it is compressed in both length and width.

@Mark Boyce

Mark:

Your church model is absolutely SUPERB!!!!!! You have hit a grand slam home run with the church model!!!!! BRAVO, sir!

Thank you, Zac, Jay, Dave C, Dave PRRMP54, Gene, Bob, Darrell, Don, Randy, Peter, Phil, Mike!

Dave C, the metal glued to the underside of the roof is a good idea.  Howard Zane certainly did a good job on everything.  I can believe no one ever noticed the roof glued in upside down.  It is the overall impression of the model that everyone sees.

Don, I tried to slope the cap stones.  Some of them didn't work out as well as I hoped, but thank you for noticing.

Mike, The Hudson is at Pat's shop right now for him to see if it has the same problem on his layout.  We will see how it works out.

Bob, The building inspector takes bribes.  Very inexpensive bribes. 

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Almost every building I've created has an out-of-square problem somewhere. But hey… in real llfe, old buildings are often out of square. Just look at this picture. This is a doorway into the Stockton Inn in Stockton, NJ. It was so out of square I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me. I took the picture head on, so it's not a lens effect you're looking at. It's really that cockeyed.

Square-not square

So don't feel bad. If real buildings can be off-square a bit, so can ours.

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Thank you, Myles, Rubin!

Myles, that certainly is an out of square building!  Thank you for the great example!!  I feel better about mine.

I painted the roof sections flat black then glued on N scale ballast by Highball that I have had since the late '80s.  I think it looks pretty good.  The slight imperfections look quite believable.

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I sealed the cracks for light leaks using a test strip of LEDs.  I still need to install the lighting, put up the cross, and find a chimney that I stashed away.  I think I am satisfied with the windows that I am not going to put on sills.  The prototype sills look quite small, and I think I will get glue on the bricks.  I marked out the sidewalk edges as can be seen on the photograph.  After taking the photograph, I remembered to add a sidewalk around the front to the side door that can't be seen in this photograph.  Then a little grass and small bushes, and I think I will call it done.

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Mark, I don’t see any evidence of a leak or puddling anywhere on the roof. How can that be?🙄

one of of my interests is Cleveland as well as Brooklyn and New York history. In downtown Cleveland there are a number of synagogues built between 1880 and 1890 or so. They have long since been repurposed as churches or community centers. Your construction is spot on.  
when was your church actually built? Either way, you’ve done a great job as you did with the Brennan Swanky Coffee kit. I learn from you every time you post. Thanks!

Thank you Rubin, Jim, Justin, Mike!

Rubin, Oh good!  I'm glad there are no puddles anywhere!!    I have never heard when this particular building was built.  Since the current congregation bought the building in 1975 from another when they build a larger facility just outside of town, that information may be lost or at least not readily available to anyone from either congregation now that nearly 50 years have passed.  I do think your timeframe of late 1800s makes good sense since the area around this building was developed around that time.  I think it is representative of a congregation that didn't have a lot of money to splurge and didn't want to burden members with a large mortgage.

Mike, I certainly will post photographs once I get the lights in! 

I pulled in a couple of buildings I hadn't placed on the layout, and rearranged them in the downtown.  One is the Altoona Model Works freight station I built 4 years ago that I placed beside the Wanky Sanky.  The other is a one story AmeriTown building with the steps that reminds me of some old company stores in West Virginia.

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The t out creamy starting to shape up, Mark. I can’t wait to see how deal with the streets, sidewalks and lighting.
as to when your church was built, finding that out may be easier than think, especially if your county’s records  are on line. And if not on line, you may just have to go to your county recorder’s office or the building department, give the clerk the address and they should be able to give you the build date.
over the years I’ve done this many times.
Happy searching!

Rubin

Good morning, Mark, you sure have done an amazing job on the church, and it is great that the wife realized what it was and the importance of it for you both!

I think your town is really coming along and I can tell by your post that you are really having fun then work! It is that part of the build that to me is really the fun time!

Keep up the wonderful work and I will be fallowing along!

@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Myles, Rubin!

Myles, that certainly is an out of square building!  Thank you for the great example!!  I feel better about mine.

I painted the roof sections flat black then glued on N scale ballast by Highball that I have had since the late '80s.  I think it looks pretty good.  The slight imperfections look quite believable.

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I sealed the cracks for light leaks using a test strip of LEDs.  I still need to install the lighting, put up the cross, and find a chimney that I stashed away.  I think I am satisfied with the windows that I am not going to put on sills.  The prototype sills look quite small, and I think I will get glue on the bricks.  I marked out the sidewalk edges as can be seen on the photograph.  After taking the photograph, I remembered to add a sidewalk around the front to the side door that can't be seen in this photograph.  Then a little grass and small bushes, and I think I will call it done.

That turned out really good Mark. You can’t tell that anything is not square. Excellent craftsmanship.

Thank you Rubin, Jeff, Jim, Mike, Jay!

Rubin, yes I thought of looking into county records after I had posted my last comment, but before I read your post.  I'm usually slow at thinking things through.    Both daughters only have a guess at the age of their homes as well.  I need to to some investigating.  Thank you!  I really have a time of it typing on my phone as well.  I have to go back and reread everything, usually after I have posted.

Jeff, Yes, the curtains hanging in the laundry room do interfere with the view.  When we moved in, I pulled the sliding window out of the frame and have it stashed in the shed.  The only heat they put in these two rooms of the addition was electric baseboard.  I disconnected them.  The air vent over the washer provides the heat and cool that I use in the train room.  I have a section of hardboard that I have thought of putting up that would cover the curtains, but never did it.  Someone long ago suggested I make sceniced panels to cover the windows when taking photographs, but I never did. 

Jim, the station is the only Altoona Model Works kit I have built.  The did a very nice job on it.  As I recall, I only made a couple of modifications to their instructions.

Mike, I wondered when she would realize it is our old building and am glad she finally did.  The photograph of the building is just to the right of the double doors leading into the sanctuary.  It would be easy for her to see except when she goes through one of us ushers is at each side of the doors greeting and handing out bulletins.

Jay, I think you are right, the out of square really isn't noticeable.

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