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Alan

I love seeing Sawmills on layouts and look forward to your completed build. During the 1940s when most of the community's young adult males were overseas fighting in WWII; I filled in one Summer "offbearing" slabs at the local sawmill for $.50 per hour. By the next year I had decided that was not a great career path.

 

When I dismantled a layout in '09 I found my "lost" Foxfire Frick Sawmill model and it motivated me to use a open corner access hole on my really small round-the-room layout for placing a small rural mill and lumber yard. The corner is a "reach" and is not ideal but land-poor modelers cannot be choosy. I velcroed components, including the rocky foothills, in place for removal and take out for work if necessary.

 

The site is still very raw and aside from building a Lumber Shed last year work has suffered. Recently picked up a Lumber/Hardware Store building for the scene and hope to resume work soon.

 

 

 

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Last edited by Dewey Trogdon

My table saw has a bag on it to catch most of the sawdust. But the dry yellow pine I made my sawdust pile out of has more of a glue smell than pine. Got to go out to the Farm and cut some pine limbs, hopefully that still have some hardened, dry sap on them.

Or, one can just pour a little pine turpentine on their sawdust pile.

Rich,

I always thought the windows came from Grandt Line in the Korber kits because I was able to buy the exact windows from them. I wish your kits were made of styrene instead of urethane because they would be a kit bashers dream. I would use them just like I use the DPM modular sections.

 

Scale Rail,

Thank you. I will have to look up a slash burner and see if I can incorporate it into the model. I do not have much knowledge when it comes to lumber.

 

Alan Graziano

Dave Alan, Let me see if I can answer.

 

The roundhouse windows are a bit larger - (I will get the actual dimensions but I am away from that computer for a few days) - because they are an overlap design such that they are a bit larger than the window opening and attached to the inside wall flush to the windows opening rather than inside with window opening.  This approach allows for variability in the window opening and makes for a faster install.

 

I believe the windows atone time did come from Grandtline, they moved to  urethane at one point, and for a number of years have been a vacuum formed window that frankly didn't fit real well.

 

We have three injection molded windows, a 4 by 4 window, and two different industrial windows.

 

In addition to these injection molded windows there are a few other injection molded detail parts, a small smokestack, and some freight doors. There are also some roof top water tanks.

 

While many of the kits are urethane  the switch tower is injection molded styrene, as is a set of modular parts.  These modular items are not in production at this point, but we plan to bring them back next year, plus some more designed kits.

 

In the last year we also added some laser cut items including a wood roof top water tank.

 

In general we have had a number of people use the kits for kit bashing, they do make great unique models.

 

 

Big things with Rough cut lumber mills, at least in western PA, that was a lot of hard wood was the following. Keep in mind that electric was readily available, no need for other power sources.  Basic shelter building only needed to be rain/snow proof.  

(1.)  Usually a large saw dust pile.

(2.)  A slab pile off the basic cut-offs of a log, to square it.

(3.)  On ocassion you would see a saw dust bin, Farmers would use the saw dust as a bedding for dairy cows.

(4.) A small chunk pile of end cut-offs.  Once the basic lumber was cut to width and thickness, the ends were squared and cut close to the 2ft increment lenghts desired.  These piles were popular to those who burn wood for home heating.

(5.) Lumber drying piles. Usually relative large stack of lumber that were spaced with scrap lumber to allow for aged air drying.  Probably the cheapest way to bring green lumber to a standard dried product.

A lot of rough cut saw mills would bring the product to this level.  

 

 Further machine/milling usually involved inside building areas a lot like what Alan is modeling. The cure/dried product would be plained and edged. If a particular molding was desired, such as a OG base, Window trim, window stool, or even a Tongue and Groove flooring, further milling would be done. A lot of Saw dust,  in this case much drier, a better product to use for cow bedding.  All the waste material could easily be used to fire a boiler, though by the mid 50's there wasn't a big need for on site steam power to run these mills.  Most waste was simply burned IMO.   More storage buildings at this point, for safe, dry indoor storage and sorting of finish product. 

Several years ago when I was finishing a kitchen for my parents, I travel to a unique Western PA mill that supplied beautiful red oak trim, the choice for the final trim out for the kitchen.   There was a pretty nice showroom on site.  I was surprise that Sasifras was a unique and sought after choice for floor.  Not much of a tree for those who have walked the wood lots of PA.  

AnyWho.  Just some worthless info to add to a very good thread. 

Best wishes on you project Alan. 

Mike  

    

Last edited by Mike CT

Our North Corolina Mountain "portable" Sawmills are still pretty much as Mike CT describes although powered mostly by a diesel mounted on trailer chassis or a tractor PTO, mandrels and belt. The Mills in more permanent sheds at lumber yards of course generally have electric prime movers.

The basic mill handling/cutting components are not a lot different from my model of an old 1920s Frick Mill shown in the fuzzy photos below.

 

Alan is crafting a far more modern set up that no doubt will measure up to, or exceed, his typical industrial productions. 

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Chris,

I am lucky if I can get a light to work let alone a saw . I am a static guy and I am happy that I can accomplish that. I need to bring in an expert to get to the next level. (lol)

Mike,

I  looked up the slash burner that Scale Rail mentioned and remembered that my customer said he wanted to have the dust collector piping come down to fill wagons for farm use, just as you mentioned. My customer has a farm. I would have liked to put the slash burner in. Maybe on the next model if anyone else ever asks. Thank you for all the detail info. 

 

Alan Graziano

hey thats ok,  thats why there are the other guys on here that do the motors!  i like to fiddle with things, but some things are left to the experienced! Originally Posted by Alan Graziano:

Chris,

I am lucky if I can get a light to work let alone a saw . I am a static guy and I am happy that I can accomplish that. I need to bring in an expert to get to the next level. (lol)

Mike,

I  looked up the slash burner that Scale Rail mentioned and remembered that my customer said he wanted to have the dust collector piping come down to fill wagons for farm use, just as you mentioned. My customer has a farm. I would have liked to put the slash burner in. Maybe on the next model if anyone else ever asks. Thank you for all the detail info. 

 

Alan Graziano

 

Alan/Bill,

Thank you for the compliments.

Pete,

There is not a lot to it. I used Rustoleum Painters Touch spray paint. I sprayed brown primer, orange and silver on top.

One thing is very important and that is how far away you are going to be from the model. Nothing has to be perfect if you are viewing from three feet or more away. I do not use an air brush because I do not like the clean-up compared to a spray can. I also have to sacrifice perfecion when weathering something with a spray can only.

For most of the things I do that has been okay by my customers.

 

Alan Graziano

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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