New to DCS, hookup suggestions

You can parallel two bricks on one output if you have a single power district.  If you do that, I'd add a fast acting 10A circuit breaker to the combined power input to the TIU channel.  This will give you more capacity on one TIU output. 

You can also just run with 100W on each of the channels, but you'd probably want to create power districts to split the load.  Are the three tracks separate power feeds now?

As long as you have Channel 1 Fixed powered, you don't need aux power.

Chris,

Now, the question is.  How do I power up the TIU?  1 or 2 bricks?  do I just hook them up to the fixed inputs?  Cut the plugs and install them to the inputs?

At the risk of offending John in his post above, for now don't concern yourself with power districts. Also, the circuit breakers in the Z1000s obviate the need for inline fuses, as long as the breakers trip quickly. Test them to be sure.

Being new to DCS, I suggest that the best way to accomplish powering your tracks is to do the following:

• Ensure that all 3 of your Z1000s are in phase with respect to each other. This is important!
• Obtain 3 #50-1017 TIU/Barrel Jack Adapter Cables to use to connect each of your 3 Z1000's to 3 TIU channels, Fixed #1, Fixed#2 and Variable #1.
• Power to the TIU itself (not the tracks) will be on whenever the power to Fixed #1 is on. Make sure that the TIU has power (red LED inside is on) and press on the DCS remote: Menu/System/DCS Setup. Then select Variable Channel #1 and press the FXD soft key to put it into fixed mode.

Do you need to plug in a brick to the TIU aux power?

That would be a good thing to do since the TIU would always be powered. Alternatively, just ensure that Fixed Channel #1 has power all the time.

Now, the outputs are just simple hook a channel to the track lockon. 

Yes, pretty much.

is that all I have to do? 

Actually, you should get more of an education before you do much with DCS, or expand your layout. For this I recommend The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition. It will answer just about any question you have about DCS, including those that don't occur to you to ask.

All  of the above and a whole lot more is all in "The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", now available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book from MTH's web store site! Click on the link below to go to MTH's web page for the book!

You might also want to get this video.

Chris,

The video that Rich mentions above should, indeed, serve to get you started. It can prove to be a quite valuable tool.

However, one caveat is that the video discusses a version of DCS (3.1) that's quite old. The latest version, DCS 4.2, has many features that were not present in DCS 3.1, and consequently are not discussed in the video.

Further, the book is intended as both a tutorial and a reference manual, and is very complete.

Actually. you would be well-advised to purchase both, considering that the price of the two together is about the same as  purchasing a freight car!  

power districts?  will I overload the TIU if I went direct 100w on each channel?  Can you just run 1 brick on channel 1 fixed? and power 3 tracks? 

barry,  thanks for the quick explanation.  I just purchased the download from MTH website.  thanks! 

Chris

The TIU is rated to handle 10 amps on each channel, so you won't overload it with 100W bricks, they'll end up giving you maybe 6 amps at 18 volts.  I wouldn't try powering all the tracks from one 100W transformer, I think three locomotives and cars might be reaching the limit of the brick.  Best to split it into at least two power districts.

A "power district" is just a set of tracks that has the center rail isolated and connected to a different power source, aka a different TIU output channel.

Chris,

Thanks for purchasing my book. I know it will help you to maximize your DCS experience.

I thought that the OGR video was available as a DVD, however, now I'm not certain. Best to E-mail Rich using the address in his profile.

Chris;

Welcome to DCS operation, I am sure you will find it fun.

You did the right thing getting Barry's book, it's the Bible of DCS operation.

I looked at the OGR web shop and the DVD/Teaching link takes you to a copy of the Video, BUT the picture is of the VHS. I suspect this is why Barry told you to verify with Rich. I suspect they just used an existing picture for convenience but it never hurts to verify.

I will be watching this topic as I'd like to get the video as well.

that is what I think Ill do.  just do the testing on one track.  I might cut those ends off because the pigtails are like 10 bucks a piece! ill just use fork ends crimp ontothe wire and screw the terminals down.  got plenty of those automotive type ones. 

im going to hook up the z onto fixed 1 and attach one of the tracks and do some testing and get all the engines logged in. 

thanks

Chris

It is a DVD. We don't sell VHS any more.

Chris,

I might cut those ends off because the pigtails are like 10 bucks a piece!

I wouldn't do so.

Someday you'll upgrade to a Z4000 and you may want to sell the Z1000s. They'll sell easier and for more money if they've not been modified, and you can also sell the barrel jack adapters with them.

Rich,

   When do you plan to update the DCS Video Guide, there is information that

you could add to it now. 

PCRR/Dave

I bought banana jacks, makes life much simpler.  I am not sure if I would cut those wires, $10 X 4 sucks, but if you want to sell those in the future, Barry is right, it will hurt the resale value. The other thing is it make thing easier to plug and unplug things rather than screwing wires down on a binding post.  I am going to convert my ZW with Female banana jacks. 

ok, Ill hold off and get the barrel jacks.  and also get some bannana jacks for the output side to keep things secure.  thanks a whole bunch guys.  Alot.  you guys got me on the right track.

I just mounted the TIU on a board under my platform near my bricks.  soon as I get the barrel jacks, ill be good to go. 

chris

Chris,

   You ask about powering your TIU.  I really suggest you use the Radio Shack

power pack that Rich talks about in the OGR Video Guide to DCS, you will see the reasons for powering in this manner, as Rich explains it on the OGR DCS Video Guide.  

PCRR/Dave

so the radio shack power supply. is this just a plug in the wall type power pack.  AC? and how many watts?  thanks. 

Chris,

From page 93 of The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition:

Another source of power for the TIU's Aux. Power port is the Radio Shack "#273-331 "Enercell™ Switchable 18/24VAC 1 AMP Power Adapter with #273-344 Enercell™ Adaptaplug™ M. It should be used on the 18 volt setting.

This and a whole lot more is all in "The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", now available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book from MTH's web store site! Click on the link below to go to MTH's web page for the book!

Lets make this thing work. Take a 100 brick and plug it into the AUX jack on the TIU. The 14v on the brick,hook that up to a fixed port on the TIU and connect to a loop of track. Now one loop works. 2 more bricks can power the other loops. With the softkeys you can turn a variable port to fixed. When you get the bananna plugs you can change things to use the 18v.

I was wondering if I could that.  plug in the z1000 brick into the input on the TIU and then use the screw down terminal output to the TIU input.  so that is ok to do?

thanks

Chris

barry I got the book, ill read that section.  thanks

Chris,

The 14 volt output of the Z1000 is only a few amps and is not well-suited for running trains. Just be patient and get the barrel jack adapter.

I was getting him running without cutting anything. The 14v jack is 80 watts which gives 5.7 amps. More than enough to run a small train.

I didnt have time right now to get things going so I have to hold off.  my 5 year old keeps me running, so, im just going to wait for the package to come.  should be here a few days. I could have got the barrel jack at the train show in monroeville, but I came back to the table and it was gone!!   oh well

Chris. 

well got the TIU/barrel plugs in the mail this morning. Bought 4.  now I can hook this bugger up!  should be fun.  now I have to find time to do it all

Hey, guys.  got it hooked up.  amazing what the engines can do.  I tried the premier Dash 9.  I love the ability to control all aspects at the flick of the switch.  headlight on off is cool a real shutdown. engine sounds are different.  like the speed control super slow.  the horn blast if you hold in will give multiple blasts and toot toot at end.  pretty cool.  My 4-6-4 western maryland hudson is cool.  the smoke blows so slow and powerful now, horn and sounds.  has the PFA announcements I could not get before.  I really like the ability to shut off the sounds fast because of a phone call or my wife says I cant hear!   haha.  Love all of this.  makes the running alot more fun. 

 Cant wait for my new arrival a PS2 SOuthern Crescent I just won.  will work great with the old set I have.  I still have to try the ps2 PCC trolley

chris

hmm,  maybe it can take its maiden voyage across PA on the mainline and into greensburg terminal for final delivery?  dont worry, ill take good care of it.

now that I see that full voltage goes to the track.  I have a Superstreets setup with smaller wires hooked up.  like 18 guage solid.  Can I use this wire if that amount of full voltag is going through?  I assume the superstreets track can handle it but worried about wire?  I hate to remove the track since its all landscaped now and screwed down.  any thoughts with this? 

thanks Chris

I'd use heavier wire for the tracks, #18 is pretty marginal.  It's fine for Superstreets, since you're not likely to run anything that requires much power.

I'd consider #14 or even #12 wire.

Glad to see the locomotive is going to a good home.

barry,  ill be running the PCC trolley on it only.  my question was when full power goes to the tracks, I worried about that wire.  I used 12 guage for my realtrax stranded. so I should remove the wire I have for that since its solid and replace with strathanksnded 14 guage?  I wanted to make sure everything was good before I put power to the superstreets.  thanks  chris

Chris,

Try the existing wire first. If it works, leave it be. No harm will result.

Chris,

Maybe I missed something.

If your wire is 18 gauge, then it should definitely be replaced with 16 gauge, stranded or, for long runs, 14 gauge stranded.

thanks barry.  im going to replace the leads with 14 stranded.  I have alot of that.