New to forum need some layout help.

Quick vid of space and track on table.

3 loops under the elevation, 2 of them continue around perimeter inner most loop just heads down table.  Cant find a way to make it all connect up.

Awesome ideas, especially that flip up track section.

One idea right of the bat is to seal up that garage door if it is not needed.

Drafts will keep you from enjoying building and using the layout.

Your layout design works really well for what you built.

Are you looking for a City Scene or maybe a Country Scene?

Putting a figure 8 where the tools and piles of track arevwould give you a nice action area.

 

Then perhaps later you can work on interconnecting the loops.

 

I would put the rest of the elevated area up on pylons on a elevated deck about 4" wide. Make them all from wood.

 

It looks pretty cool all stretched out.

 

I am trying to determine if you can cross over the inner most loop near the door using 2-90° to get across the outer loops, then helix up with 031 to the elevated.

Brian, The door is insulated and I installed heat out here. It is around 0 degrees with the windchill today in NJ and its a balmy 65 in the garage. You are correct, there is no way I would be out here in the cold. Heater is 240v I haven't seen the electric bill yet. Might need to open the door to get to some parts of the back track if I have issues. Would like to have small-town/city and industry. Friends just built a brewery and think modeling our small town would be kind of cool. Of course with Artistic License. lol. 

 

Thanks for the input

 

Bob

Going to try and have elevation change over yard and into center of main run

Here's some ideas for the helix This would make your return loops over and under with the out and back to the helix and crossing. Adds some danger at the crossing.

Looks to me like you are off to a really good start. Your bench work has all kinds of possibilities. The hinged upper level is really a nice idea as well. I think that's a great idea. Just a couple of minor details left, like for one, a track plan.   Lots of good track planners here too. For starters how about just putting some track together and running some trains to see what you like and don't like about what you have done and adjust from there.

 

I think many people build bench work to fit their space and then make the track fit. I am sort of doing this myself. I don't know anything about how railroads operate, what I really want or should have for a track plan. I built a table and have been playing with the track to see what I like. I consider it part of the learning curve, but at least I have trains running and can enjoy that while I work out the rest of the details. After running trains in one configuration for a while I figure out the good and bad of the plan and go from there trying to improve it.

 

Moonman has posted some very nice track plans for folks around here and it appears he is willing to help. Wouldn't be surprised if he even posts something for you here pretty soon, like a nice sample plan. Others will probably be along with suggestions as well. You will probably have something you like before you know it.

rtr12, lol. That is exactly what has happened. Im just stuck and have not seen a train move in 3 weeks.  Today Im going to get something down and get them moving and see what happens.  

 

Carl, that is awesome.  I like the  crossovers and that does look like lots of action and still leaves room for a yard.  Will I be able to make a double helix out of plywood. 1/4" and I think I have some 1/8th also. 

 

Thanks so much

I see Moonman was already hard at work while I was typing.

 

I understand. I try to keep things so I can make some changes and still be back together in a short time to allow train running. Your setup is larger than mine so far and a bit more creative and complicated too. I only have a 6'x16' table at present. 

 

Your bench work has given me some new ideas with that raised level that lifts up. Might be just what I was waiting for, as I was wanting to have some elevation changes and more yard area.

 

I would just make pylons and leave it open. I designed it as a spiral, rather than a helix. I think it would look cool open with pylons. Wooden dowel 3/4'-1" with blocks on the top and bottom for mounting.

 

it's a way to get a high rise without a long run. The grade is a 3.4% to the underpass and then 4.4% to the bridge. Needed clearance. If you made it bigger with some 072 curves, that would lengthen it for a lower slope, but take up more of that area. I used what you have.

 

 

 

Oh, the gray area or the bridge effect is only to improve the 3D look and take away the terrain. Using the 027 tubular, you don't really need a base under the track. Just a pylon or arch.

18hrs later and have trains moving. Track is in temp position have to work out some kinks. The 027 switches are a little right for diesel, fuel tank rubs. I will try to rebuild it on computer to see what Ya guys think. I already need another turn around of some sort. I have to back up through a couple switched to get back up to 2nd elevation if I get spun around in opposite direction. Put couple switches in open area. Not sure if I want a yard there or not. Any other ideas for that space?

Welcome LoRusso,

I'm a fan of a temporary carpet layout, a simple loop while working on a layout. It scratches the itch to run, and allows testing stock easily.

 I didn't look close, but if you can, keep or move to one loop with no 0-27 on it.

The 0-27 switch housings can be trimmed to avoid the bump, or pull the tanks.

 MARX and Lionel together don't have issues when it comes to plain track.

Neithers old stuff have had much luck in each other's 0-27 turnouts, except for certain tricks of placement, and train direction.

Did you use them? Are they working ok?

 Save them for your tin layout.

Ooor sell them here on the forum  

 Or, if you use them, put them on a yard edge, "the other side of the tracks where the Scouts wont go" and try to allow a MARX to hit a loop by careful turnout placement. You might be able to do steam switching over them with the tender, and maybe a pusher. 

Ok ..I haven't even watched the video yet ...Ill be bach.

What do you mean you need help   ... 

 

Hey,

That turned out good.  Use a cleat under the edge of the end pieces to support the narrow piece of the elevated section. I see you have just sitting there. (see 3D)

 

here's the SCARM with something close for your tables. The base is layer 0 and the elevated is Layer 1. Once you have the rise to the elevated, toggle to layer 1 active and add the elevated track.

 

Then you can toggle layers , like lifting your section to work on the plan. SCARM file attached.

Thanks everyone for all the input.

 

Yesterday I purchased a LionChief Plus PRR 2-8-2 Mikado steam engine.  It doesn't handle the 027 switches very well.  

 

Going to try and tweak and tighten the layout to see if I can improve it enough for that steam engine. My diesel handles it pretty well. 

 

I think I might have to switch over to fast track sooner than I had planned.

Im thinking starting with a line just for the loco of FT surrounded with 027 till I can afford to switch it all over.

 

 

  You'll have to watch close to figure out exactly why it has issues.

"The housing bump", the long spread of the drivers with flanges, roller size/ length/ positions, and travel limits on pilot, and trailing trucks, are what to look at first.

Some locos don't like the worn flange guides of the older turnouts.

Plastic roadbed has its place in the hobby, so does more realist track.

IMHO if you are thinking of change already, for the long run, you should check out one of the oldest most reputable combos in O for generations, Gar Graves (available) & Ross turnouts. Or even Scale Trax(NA?), and Atlas(NA?).

 

I was going to do a little research on the forum about track preferences. Have not decided on fast track.  I like the realistic look of the Atlas stuff, but I heard that there are issues getting it.  Does Gar Graves make turnouts or are Ross just better

Gargraves does make turnouts, but a lot of people feel that Ross turnouts are the best.  They are all made in USA, and Ross does make the largest variety of turnout types.

 

Chuck

A matter of opinion, part of it skewed by time, as I think both have made changes since I helped install & used them, (and about every other brand of switch & track available in the 80s).

Gar Graves has been "thee" scale track "forever" The flex kings. 

Ross offers a slightly wider choice of prototypical numbered* turnouts, I believe (or did). Position of the lever & switch motor mounting style was the biggest concern outside of actually looking & working well- slide, guide, & points wise. Keep in mind pricing, the motors are not automatically included with all turnouts. That part is another choice in some selections. I like the coil motors personally.

Also the use of Lionel O gage tubular turnouts (like an 022 or larger for you) with GG was once very commonplace too. 

 

*A numbered turnout deviates at an angle. And are not curved. Each angle has a numerical name. ie: a "#5 turnout" or a "#4", etc. Curves happen after the turnouts deviation. Which is why you have the "strange" angle listing on some curves. It is needed to finish the curves math in degrees to achieve, say, a 90 degree turn.   

 

   

The Atlas track is available. Cost is about the same as FasTrack. You can fit 036 and 027 curves on your layout and maybe some 045 on the wider door end. The switches with motors are about the same no matter which one you use.

 

Atlas is nice because it's solid and flat top rail. GG and others are round top, except for MTH Scaletrax.

 

So, it depends...if it is more of a temporary or transition layout, the FasTrack system is nice. You can always get 40%-60% of retail if you sell it.

 

With FasTrack your stuck with 036. 048 is too large for a 48" table and 031 isn't the next step inside 036.

I purchased a loop of fast track and 2 manual switches.  They just need to swap direction as the train enters and exits loop. The track is on the upper elevation.  It is so much smoother than the older track. Starting to do some scenery up there.

Anyone know where i can get some info on LED's?

 

Right here, search for LED. There have been many good threads on LED lighting here, with how to details and schematics and links to purchase. Gunrunnerjohn, stan2004 and Dale H are some frequent posters of LED information. Here's a thread started by TMack that was called LED's for Dummies that was good too. That's the only one I can remember the thread name for.

And the first thing they'll ask is what are you wanting to do?

Thanks for the LED help. I purchased a few and blew them up. lol. I still need to figure that out but getting there. Its on the back burner for the moment.

Last  night I pulled some of the track apart and made it two separate loops so I could run my traditional engine with the Lion Chief Plus engine.

Also have made a sudo yard, but I think it will turn into an industry of some sort.

 

Quick video of where I'm at. Thanks again for the help.

 

Bob

I started replacing portion with racetrack and I have decided to stay with 027 for the time being. I found a couple of 042 switches that handle things really well. Just need to test with bigger engine to see if they will also handle them. Weathered and ballasted think it looks pretty decent.

LoRusso,

i just found your topic.  The video shows you are making really nice progress.  Your ballasted track with the extra ties is looking very nice.  I have a Pennsy LionChief Plus Mikado too.  At first it didn't run through my new FasTrack switches, then it settled down and doesn't fail.  I don't know what the issue was.  Both loco and switches were new.

I don't think you need to do all that track separation, to run both trains. Unless you know something about the layout I don't, or don't remember. Why did you separate the loops?

 I'm pretty sure you can set the voltage on a conventional train to a steady speed, and then "raise the throttle" on the LC+. The LC+ max speed will be limited to the voltage you have set for the conventional unit. You see, the LC+ can run with less than 18v, it just doesn't reach top speed without 18v. If you run your conventional at a steady 12v, the LC+, full blast on that 12v track, only goes "12v worth of fast".

Make any sense?  

The adjustment of throttles might take more thought, but your not pulling track apart just to switch locos. 

Your gonna love lights out running with lamps everywhere.

And the track looks great! 

It's safer. Then you don't forget and bridge the transformers at two different voltages when crossing over. It can fritz electronics and cook bulbs.

 

Your ties make that track look great. Did you buy them or make them?

 

The layout is turning out well. It's looks good when running.

Fantastic amount of work in a short time!

 

Peter

Great progress!  The layout I had prior to the one I am working on now was in my garage as well.  Looks like you are well on your way.