New to the hobby, looking to build layout in basement.

Meant to add, looking to do Gargraves track and Ross switches

Take a look at Norm's Trains on youtube, your space allows for a nice big oval with easy access similar to his arrangement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...annel=Norm%27sTrains

You have basically a 25 ft by 13 ft space.  I would do an "around the wall" layout using a minimum O72+ curves for the double main lines.  This meets the Big Boy's needs and males everything else even better.  There's plenty of room for scenery and display and storage tracks for other trains.

Jan

I did my layout with Gargraves flex and all Ross switches and some Ross sectional track.

The one recommendation I can make up front is make all the curves as wide as you can.  Virtually everything looks better running on wide curves, and there's obviously no problem running O31 rated stuff on O72 or larger curves.

Agree with the others about the basic design, with the dimensions you have you should use as large a curves as possible, as GRJ said it makes anything look better. With the open end on one side, you theoretically could do a U shaped layout, the problem is that would limit the max curve size on the two legs for the return leg. An oval/around the room layout has the problem of needing a pass through/duck under at the open end of the layout, to allow access to the middle of the layout. The good news is with a 13 foot width, you can build it where you have full access to the outside of the layout as well as the inside, so you can build the layout wider (with access from outside and inside possible, you could do a 60" wide layout base, 30" reach from inside/outside.

It is good you already have started thinking about what you want on the layout, because of course that informs the design. There are also things like do you want grades on the layout, or are do you want it pretty much level? What kind of scenes do you want to model, do you prefer trains going through rural areas or a more urban look? These all will inform what you do with the design of it. I tried using design software, RR Modeller and scarm and the like, and I ended up with Rail Modeller pro on the Mac, but you might find one of the others works. The other thing there is no disgrace in getting help laying it out, there are pro services who advertise in OGRR , and there are people on forums like this that enjoy designing plans, giving suggestions.

There are a variety of ways to build the layout itself, some people use modular train tables from Miannes and others, most tend to build it themselves. I built my table using a ladder approach (basically a rectangular box with 1x4's every 16" across) and am doing an experiment using 4" foam over plywood for the base. There plenty of methods.

Then there is track and control system. Given your rolling stock being modern, I would say you would be smart wiring for Cab 3 and DCS, and using the capability of DCS to run conventional engines via the variable output. I use Ross track and switches and am really happy with it. Note that others use Gargraves track that is very similar to Ross (and is fully compatible with Ross), especially the Gargraves flex track.

And yes it can be overwhelming. If the basement space is not finished off, you may want to do that if possible, to make it pleasant to be there . Make sure you have enough power accessible in the space, lighting, and you do want to make sure it is comfortable for you and the trains, in terms of heating/cooling and humidity (and if your basement already has all that, congrats!). I didn't do carpeting because my basement has the potential to get water, but having that or rubber tiles can make it more pleasant.

One of the biggest things is having a plan for all this, having that kind of allows you to see what you need to do and check off what you have done, to show progress.

There are decent books on layout building that can be a help, that go over the basics that you might even be able to find in the library or from sellers of toy train books.

One thing to know, mistakes happen, few people's first layouts are perfect and plans can always be changed. Once you start building the track you get an idea of what it will look like, and you might change your mind. Also know that with design programs, there is always fiddling in the build phase (ask me how I know!).

This is obviously just a quick bunch of thoughts. One thing I encourage, ask questions on here, people here genuinely want to share and help others. There will be disagreements, someone will say "X is the way to go", others will say "Y is it", in the end though it is what you want. If you just want to run trains, that is fine. If you want to try and do realistic operations (which influences the design), that is fine and it may change over time.

You have a nice raw space.  My advice before you build any benchwork or lay any track is plan, plan, plan.  Plan to the point of doing a full size paper mock up on the floor so you can visualize the finished product.  The minds eye want to provide more space that what we end up in reality. 

If you do not opt for an around the wall layout be aware a reverse loop of 072 creates challenges with regards to reach.  Due to space and physical constraints I had to utilize 042 for the most part.  To hide the tight turn look these were hidden as much as possible in order to improve the overall look. 

Ditto looking at Norms trains site, a wonderful finished product and food for thought.

If I read right, here's your space with 36" or less reach and 30" away from the future bottom wall to make room for display shelves. I added O-99, O-72 and O-54 ovals just to show sizes. The room is 308" x 159" and the layout is 308" x 129" with a 40" entry and 36" aisle.

Thanks all for the comments so far. I picked up a Base 3 the other day, I have a powerhouse 180 transformer also.  Probably going to get the WITU down the road ro run the MTH stuff.

I would like to not do a run around the room, simply for ease of access into the layout, and don't want to be crawling under all the time, or have bridges etc to lift and move.  I understand the complexity though with reversing loops, width etc.  I've been working on a few layouts in the anyrail app. 

I would like some elevation along the back wall, probably won't do tunnels, but more like a mountain grade, etc.  Plan is to have a picture backdrop of mountains on the wall there.  Rest of the layout flat. 

Thanks all

Well, been up drawing up this plan.  I will have the center, between the left and right side/tracks open for access, and I threw in a reversing loop kinda quick here at the end.  Dont have to have it, just looking at options.  3 loops, min O80 curves on the inner loop, outer goes out to 102 i think it is. 

The long back wall, 2 tracks, id like to do some elevation, then between the 2 elevated tracks, the gap to the 3rd one, have that a mountain/hill down from the elevated 2 track.  If that makes sense. 

Anyhow, let me know what you think.  There should be 3" of clearance between all tracks and walls

Ill attach the file, anyrail and a picture.

Gpower

Did a little more this morning, made the freight yard pass through now.  Added the openings/access areas as well.  The widest I see to reach across is about 36"  There may be a few wider spots.  Updated file and picture.

Thanks

It looks good to me. 36" can be a stretch, I would use a table and see how hard it is to reach the max distance. It can be done, but keep in mind once you have scenery in place, it makes it even hard to reach..and then think about what you might be doing. Reaching to put a car back on the track or dusting a structure might be okay, but if you have to clean the track by hand or have to solder something to the rail, could be difficult. Knew a guy with a layout many years ago who had beautiful overhead catenary, and one time he had to reach to do something, and well, you can imagine....Keep what it will look like in your minds eyes. if all you have on the reach is flat tabletop scenery, likely will be good. If you have a village in the area you are reaching, not so good. Besides the open area, maybe where you might have a long reach even with that, have a removable panel with scenery (like for example, the village I mentioned) so you can take it out, do what you do, then put it back in place. I think my max reach for most of the layout is 30", but the few areas that are more can be challenging.

Thanks Bigkid, very thoughtful ideas.  I like your thoughts on the open areas, having some scenes that are removable.  I'll have to get a closer look on actual widths in the curves, I understand the thought of, well, that won't be a problem, till it is....lol. 

What are your thoughts to control the Ross switches?  In my mind, your at a set location and can control the entire track from that area.  Switches, lights, buildings etc.  I am also planning on doing a "star" pattern to run wires to the track, distribution etc. 

Thanks again

at a minimum I would lay the 0-72 on the back wall, and go wider on the front two curves.  You won't see the back wall with 0-72 but you will see the front curves with the big boy and scale passenger cars. 108 won't take up so much room and you will never regret that. Also don't just make a straight run from curve to curve in the front.  At least make a modest s curve if possible, that curve if modest will be even more gentle that the 108.  A little variation goes a long way.  I would skip the elevation myself.  Save that for your next layout.  It takes a long run to get much elevation and can cause issues with the quality of play, Just me though. Personally I do not care for gargraves flex track,  Atlas flex is harder to work with but I like the result so much better.  If you use third rail track and switches you will go with Gargraves however.  Finally, please make a wiring diagram before or as you go and try for colored wires.  I use small pieces of colored tape to put on the switch housing and the electric switch.  Have fun.

Something I may have missed but I think is important: what do you want to run trains for? There's no wrong way to run trains. But what you enjoy about it can be helpful in putting a track plan together.

For example, I like to accomplish tasks. I like putting a consist together in a yard and I like the cars to have a destination. But I also like action. So I have two outside loops that connect to a yard in the middle. The yard has destinations on each end. This fulfills my operating interests. Just a thought!

Other than that, do your lighting before you start the benchwork. I didn't and the installation is difficult now.

I think your track plan is great! Particularly after adding that reversing section. I'm using mostly Ross track and switches, plus a few Gargraves flex sections. Tortoise switch machines will serve you well for controlling your switches.

I agree with @wb47 on the tracks. Put your 0-72 where you won't see the locomotives as much. Then go with the wider curves in the front.