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Yes that is plenty of space, you can do some nice layout, I would look around and see what plans you can find

Some ideas are here http://www.thortrains.net/

Welcome!  You have enough space for an interesting layout.  Plenty of folks have built one using much less area than yours.  I'm sure members will come forward with lots of good suggestions.  Me, I'm not much of a planner:  I just lay track on the floor and rearrange it till I like the looks.

Welcome! Plenty of space for a fun layout. Spend some time on the internet for some layout ideas and perhaps some books.

Enjoy the experience and have fun!

YOU MIGHT WANT A SHELF LAYOUT AROUND THE ROOM CHECK OUT THIS THREAD JUST BELOW YOUR POST.  GO TO YOUR LHS AND FIND A BOOK WITH TRACK PLANS. 

THERE ARE SOME GREAT MONDS HERE ON THE FORUM AND YOU COULD START A DESIGN CONTEST AND YOU WILL GET A LOT OF SUGGESTIONS

A GREAT HOBBY - ENJOY

https://ogrforum.com/t...my-shelf-layout-plan

Take the closet doors off for more space

Yes, you do have enough space for a decent layout.  How it's configured depends on where things like doors and closets are located in/around the room, but you definitely have enough space for a fun-filled layout.

Thank You to all who replied. I now need to plan a little and do some research.

I find that I am not to good at the designing part, so I hope to find some Ideas on the internet. I also need to decide on if I am going to buy a train set or indivdule track  to start with. I also need to decide on a manufacturer. I have a lot to do, and I welcome any suggestions any one may have.

As far as the Closet, I'd poke holes (Tunnel portals) and use it as a storage yard area with tracks in and out. Perhaps even run the main lines through it.

Consider a lift out or drop down across the entry door, this allows all the way around the walls and gives maximum track length for any room.

You have the space for medium to large curves depending on how you lay it out.

Large curves will make it mostly curves and very small straight areas. 

For Track Gargraves with Ross switches seems to be an overall preferred combo.

I'm going to MTH Scaletrax with a few Ross Switches added in.

Get a few pieces of each track you like and see how they work for you.

Look at the layout pictured posted and decide up front what you want to make. Classic toy train with fun accessories or Hi-rail layout (also with operating stuff but harder to get/make).

My layout is 6 feet wide by 15 feet long with an O-64 outer loop, an O-54 inner loop, a three stub yard, a passing siding and two other stubs.  It's all Ross track and switches except for the Gargraves uncoupling tracks. 

I'm attaching some track plan diagrams and layout photos.

Reality check:  I had to give up a few layout ideas due to the reality of space, but I made best with the space I have.  (Having yard tracks that went into the mountains to "protect" missile rail cars would have worked on a larger layout, but the cardboard mock-ups I tried showed it would have looked ridiculous in the modest space I have available.)  Changing the layout's locale to a seaside town gave me a different challenge starting with what sort of industries could be in such a location.

I think you have enough room for an interesting layout.

My layout is in a 11x11 bedroom ,I have plenty of room I was able to use o54 curves .

11x11 is plenty of space, even if you want to go larger than 27" radius (O-54). The trick is leaving enough space to enter/exit the room and access the interior of the layout to reach the far side. Here are a couple of 10x10's that use 36" radius (O-72). I tossed them together to help out another modeler with a small space. The beauty of using 36" radius/O-72 curves is that everything built in 3-rail to date can negotiate these curves (subject to trackside clearances). In this case, the curves were offset 4" from the walls.

This first one would use a lift-out or duck-under.

Here's the two-lap version. Crossing bridges are over the duck-under as a two-level lift-out is complicated, but not impossible (Frank Ellison did it on the Delta Lines) to construct.

Thanks to all your input, and thank you nyclines and aghrmatt for the photo and drawings.

This has been a big help.

All I have is 11 foot by 13 foot room. I use 3 four by eight foot plywood sheets.

Another idea to consider is to have a second level for passenger trains. You have the lighter weight engine and cars up there, or trolley run.

What I did to first experiment was to use one inch dowel rods from a hardware store, about 8 inches tall, you need 6 inches to get over most large freight cars or engines. To make it more sturdy, use a two inch # 4 wood screw at every fourth dowel rod underneath the table to keep it from moving around on the layout.

You can use 027 track because of weight and use track clips at every track connection. Support every third cross-tie or one & a half track sections, sometimes you will need to support every curve track connection.

Also I did an around the room upper level track, used 4 inch shelf supports to mount the wood boards, one inch thick by four inch wide. Used 027 track with 42 inch curves and Gargraves track for straights.

Built a small under the table area for my transformers, have about five transformers; a post war ZW & a Z, post war KW, and two MTH Z-1000's. Use the smaller single train transformers for lights in my houses.

Lee Fritz

I would add a cut to fit 3/8" plywood under any elevated trackage.

This will keep track from sagging between supports.

If you want to make it look nice, glue sides and stir sticks on it and make it like like a bridge.

I should add that to keep the track secured to the dowel rods I use # 6 phillips head screws about three fourths of an inch long. For the bottom screws I use # 4 phillips head between one and a half and two inch long screws. I pre-drill the holes so I don't split the dowel rods.

Another way to keep the track from sagging is to use 35 inch long straight track sections.

Lee Fritz