That’s excellent John!
I took advantage of GRJs project as well. My two definitely do the job they were intended to do.
@Tom Tee posted:John, you occasionally allude to the rest of the basement...Is there a print of the entire basement floor plan? Is there some way to penetrate a wall for a mainline run through so as to narrow the benchwork and open the aisle a bit.
Some folks run a line into and through the family room featuring full scenery which provides a very nice RR touch to an other wise same old same old family room.
Any time you can get 90 or 180 degrees of curvature out of the train room you can gain either increased real estate or aisle space.
Tom here is an overview of entire basement. One side is totally off limits for railroad.
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Earlier in the thread you raised the question of controls. There is a third option other than either a fixed central control or full on TMCC or DCS remote and that is distributed control. In other words, you place the controls for switches and accessories near where they are located. Otherwise, you wind up walking around your layout following the train you’re iopersting, only to have to dash back across the room to throw a switch or operate an accessory. I’m exploring this for my new layout, which is similar in size to yours. Thanks to everyone who’s responding to your questions because they help me with my own thoughts.
Rubin
@RubinG posted:Earlier in the thread you raised the question of controls. There is a third option other than either a fixed central control or full on TMCC or DCS remote and that is distributed control. In other words, you place the controls for switches and accessories near where they are located. Otherwise, you wind up walking around your layout following the train you’re iopersting, only to have to dash back across the room to throw a switch or operate an accessory. I’m exploring this for my new layout, which is similar in size to yours. Thanks to everyone who’s responding to your questions because they help me with my own thoughts.
Rubin
Excellent point about having controls around the layout so you are in close proximity of the train you are running and the route you want to run it through. First priority is to get a system designed that will do both remote control from either a tablet or hand controller so you can be with the traain as you run it through its course. Then a main control center which is easy to accommodate, and then add controls around the layout if needed or desired. This is my first big layout so I have to depend on forum input or just adjust as go. Thanks for your valuable input and I will leave the design open to adding separate controls around layout. Again Thanks
John
I have all my switches and the turntable controls on the TMCC/Legacy remotes, I also have the Lionel LCS system on the iPad to control all the switches visually. I have siding power on individual switches placed around the fascia of the layout.
I plan on adding a manual turntable panel with a rotary switch and bridge controls in parallel with the command controls.
FWIW, I don't plan on any "master" control panel with everything on it. While they're impressive looking, I don't think they have the practicality of distributed controls.
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@gunrunnerjohn posted:I have all my switches and the turntable controls on the TMCC/Legacy remotes, I also have the Lionel LCS system on the iPad to control all the switches visually. I have siding power on individual switches placed around the fascia of the layout.
I plan on adding a manual turntable panel with a rotary switch and bridge controls in parallel with the command controls.
FWIW, I don't plan on any "master" control panel with everything on it. While they're impressive looking, I don't think they have the practicality of distributed controls.
John,
Really nice set up, love the siding switches and your future plans.
My not knowing about today’s technology, makes it hard to decide on Lionel vs MTH although I have MTH tiu and AIU’s not sure if that was smart road. Of course right after my purchases, Mike head of mth announced retirement. 😒
you definitely have a flexible control situation designed. I hope I will learn more before it costs too much for the lessons, replacing is always cost inefficient to say the least
I started with all command controlled switches and the like, I figured that was pretty "universal" and I was sure I wanted that option. Now I'm looking to add some local switch control panels in a few strategic places. The good news is, some of the busiest intersections are right at the front of the layout with the yard entry, and the confluence of the mainline, sidings and turntable access loop. I can reach all those switches easily from the edge, so for manual control I just poke the button on the switch machine. My 10-track yard got all manual ground throws, I figured I'd already be at the yard anyway...
@gunrunnerjohn posted:I started with all command controlled switches and the like, I figured that was pretty "universal" and I was sure I wanted that option. Now I'm looking to add some local switch control panels in a few strategic places. The good news is, some of the busiest intersections are right at the front of the layout with the yard entry, and the confluence of the mainline, sidings and turntable access loop. I can reach all those switches easily from the edge, so for manual control I just poke the button on the switch machine. My 10-track yard got all manual ground throws, I figured I'd already be at the yard anyway...
Thanks John for your input, it is cherished as always! Seems like you planned ahead well and are able to adapt to your layouts usage. I am aiming at have similar flexibility with the turnouts and block power. Not sure if I need local block power for roundhouse tracks or if hand control will be easy to use. Some of my disadvantages stem from never using any controls except conventional. So running a train with an Ipad or remote device is not something I am at all familiar with using. So giving myself a ton of options as I go is mandatory. Ignorance is not bliss in this situation, and I have a lot of it. 
Since my TT is out of reach, I have all command controls right now. I have the ingredients for a manual panel, a big rotary switch and lighted toggles, just haven't gotten to wiring that yet. That will be on the outside of the layout where operators will normally be running from. I strongly recommend having individual controls on each TT Whisker track, you don't want multiple engines waking up when not desired. 
I did start with all command control from the remotes as I figured I could always add conventional after the fact if desired. Now that the track is down (at least all that's planned right now), I'm thinking on a few local control panels to make things easier. While it's nice to have command of everything, it's more convenient if you have a local control for some switches, quicker to access.
All my sidings have individual lighted switches so I can individually power them, and my four PH180 transformers that power the whole layout are on an RF remote so I can turn them on/off or reset them without actually physically accessing them.
Been working on electrical implementation this past week. Where I have concentrated my efforts was in the roundhouse track power control. I have an esp32 development board accepting input from either a push button switch or aiu channel. Then that has a wireless connection to a remote esp8266-12E development board controlling a relay board with eight relays to turn on and off power to the future eight roundhouse tracks. My intent is to use similar setups for overall block power control, turnout control, block occupancy detection and signal control. Tested transmission distance of over 40 feet. specs. I believe are 250' so it should be good when decking and other obstacles try to block the signal. These micro controllers are great for this purpose. Not much schematic to post as I am using development boards off the self and an ebay relay board with eight relays. Other areas may only need two or four relays, this will be designed on an as needed basis. My hope is to implement block power first and see how these all play nice with the total of 35 blocks to control. This may need to have its own topic so it can be easily found... thoughts anyone?
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Since my TT is out of reach, I have all command controls right now. I have the ingredients for a manual panel, a big rotary switch and lighted toggles, just haven't gotten to wiring that yet. That will be on the outside of the layout where operators will normally be running from. I strongly recommend having individual controls on each TT Whisker track, you don't want multiple engines waking up when not desired.
I did start with all command control from the remotes as I figured I could always add conventional after the fact if desired. Now that the track is down (at least all that's planned right now), I'm thinking on a few local control panels to make things easier. While it's nice to have command of everything, it's more convenient if you have a local control for some switches, quicker to access.
All my sidings have individual lighted switches so I can individually power them, and my four PH180 transformers that power the whole layout are on an RF remote so I can turn them on/off or reset them without actually physically accessing them.Thanks for the input
Hi John, Thanks for your input, it is always valued. I will take your strong recommendation on local control of the whisker tracks.
Interested in the PH180's are they built with RF remote capabilities? That seems like a great feature!
This is my main 10-track yard switch panel.
The Lionel PH180's are just a good transformer, no RF control. I use an off-the-shelf 120V RF remote system to control the whole layout and the individual transformers. This remote controls the four transformers, and the bottom control is the entire layout power. I have four of these laying around the layout, so I can grab one at any time. If I have guests, I typically put one in a pocket so I have instant access, "just in case". 
The individual transformer receivers are controlled by these receivers.
And here's the master receiver for all the layout power.
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@gunrunnerjohn posted:This is my main 10-track yard switch panel.
The Lionel PH180's are just a good transformer, no RF control. I use an off-the-shelf 120V RF remote system to control the whole layout and the individual transformers. This remote controls the four transformers, and the bottom control is the entire layout power. I have four of these laying around the layout, so I can grab one at any time. If I have guests, I typically put one in a pocket so I have instant access, "just in case".
The individual transformer receivers are controlled by these receivers.
And here's the master receiver for all the layout power.
Nice Setup for sure! Thanks for the remote info and idea! Also how did you mount the TIU etc. to the board you have so neatly populated with power and controls? Did you use velcro? Again THANKS!
Actually, the TIU is mounted using four screws, the holes in the corner go all the way through. The Legacy base has screw hangers, and so does the DCS WiFi module and the PowerHouse 180 transformers. The four DCS-RC boxes doing my Watchdogs are mounted with Velcro.
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Thanks John for clearing that up for me. I was looking at the Dcs-remotes and did not see a mounting option. Again many thanks for the helpful information
next newbie question is: running power through the TIU (active mode?) or just putting TIU in parralell? Passive mode??
I run the TIU in active mode with power going through it. That gives the Remote emergency power off capability, and also I get a slightly better DCS signal level.
Passive mode is connecting the transformers directly to the track and connecting the TIU outputs directly to the track, no input power in the TIU inputs. However, unless you're SURE that FIXED #1 will ALWAYS have power, you need AUX power into the AUX Power jack.
GRJ, Thanks for letting me know what you use and prefer. I will do the same, now to incorporate the lionel controls. But I will take one thing at a time and get MTH setup first and tested.
On a side note to all, I am going in for replacement knee surgery tomorrow. I will be in hopsital for a very short time the rehab facility for about two weeks. So I will be out of touch and railroading will be halted. Thanks for everyone's help, advise and encouragement. It is very much appreciated.
Good luck with the surgery and rehab.
Good luck with the knee, I had minor knee surgery a few years back for a torn meniscus, probably not the same impact as a replacement!
Good luck and speedy recovery. I had one knee replacement in each of the last two years. If you do the rehab and exercises you’ll do fine. I’m back to walking 3 miles and bike riding 10+ ( I used to do 35 routinely. I can’t wait for Spring!). Before new knees,?stairs were tough. Now, no sweat. You’ll be glad you did it.
John, I’ll be praying for successful surgery and recuperation. Having both had one done, we know what to expect. I don’t know if that is good or bad.
Thanks to all for your well wishes and prayers. Knowing what to expect for me is worse than fat dumb and happy!
Good luck and our prayers are with you.
@Aegis21 posted:Thanks to all for your well wishes and prayers. Knowing what to expect for me is worse than fat dumb and happy!
I know, John! My wife dreaded her second one. After going through where PT was not able to break my scar tissue and having to have the manipulation and start all over, I hope my second one never needs done. We have to remember the struggle is worth it in the long run.
GRJ, what are those modules above your 180 bricks?
@Stephen G posted:GRJ, what are those modules above your 180 bricks?
Those are the MTH DCS-RC boxes. Each has one of my WatchDog Generator Boards installed to give continuous DCS watchdog signals on the track.
"On a side note to all, I am going in for replacement knee surgery tomorrow. I will be in hospital for a very short time the rehab facility for about two weeks. So I will be out of touch and railroading will be halted. Thanks for everyone's help, advise and encouragement. It is very much appreciated.
Starting work on RailRoad and loving it !"
Here's to a very good surgery and follow-up rehab!
Your knee will be great and any pain will diminish. Rehab is THE MOST IMPORTANT thing you can do! It can hurt at first, but that will change. My surgery cured a knee injury that occured when I was 20 (a long time ago!).
I had 12 sessions of PhysTherapy and I've continued with PhysTraining 2x or 3x per week for the past year. Best thing I've ever done. The trainer comes to our house, she brings the equipment, the backyard is our "gym" (we live in coastal CA so that's pretty much possible year 'round), and the work-outs are about 75 minutes. Hurt like h*ll in the beginning, but now it's just relatively pleasurable "work".
Good luck! That knee will be better!
Thanks again for all the prayers and well wishes. Operation was a success !!!
So all the prayers and wishes worked!
now for no complications and a vigorous physical therapy regimen.
Thanks To All !!!
Great news. Follow the PT and you will be up and around in no time.
Bob
Excellent news, John!
@Aegis21 posted:Thanks again for all the prayers and well wishes. Operation was a success !!!
That's great, you'll be back at it in no time!
John, glad to hear it went well. Just be attentive to any signs of inflammation. If any redness shows up take a photo so you can monitor the situation until you speak with the doctor. I read somewhere that working on a layout, and purchasing new items, will greatly help the PT process.
@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:John, glad to hear it went well. Just be attentive to any signs of inflammation. If any redness shows up take a photo so you can monitor the situation until you speak with the doctor. I read somewhere that working on a layout, and purchasing new items, will greatly help the PT process.
I read that as well, Jay!! I was negligent on that aspect of recovery, which is why PT had trouble with my knee early on. I was told it only happens to younger patients (I was 63) but later reading told me what those young guys who aren’t in the hobby didn’t know.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:This is my main 10-track yard switch panel.
Hi GRJ, nice panel where did you get those switches? Digikey?
thanks john
Those were lighted switches from some obscure mail-order outfit, I looked for an invoice but didn't find it. I have a bunch of them in my parts box, so I pulled them out to do the panel. Lots of similar switches available I think.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Those were lighted switches from some obscure mail-order outfit, I looked for an invoice but didn't find it. I have a bunch of them in my parts box, so I pulled them out to do the panel. Lots of similar switches available I think.
Thanks John, I was just being lazy for sure and I have a feeling you use quality switches.
Hello All,
Well I made the plunge into 3d printing. So far it appears very promising on making detail pieces for the layout. It was a bit to set up, but really not too difficult once I got the overall scheme of things. And I cannot believe the deal that I got from Newark electronics. They had two of these units for sale Creality CR10-S pro for 173.44 each. Well time will tell if this was a cost effective purchase. However it is keepng me busy while I recuperate from knee surgery. I'll post a couple of pics as soon as I can. Don't know why the pics went to the top LOL I am pleasantly surprised on the detail, especially the luggage cart. I did tweak the settings to get a good print, however it is worth the effort!
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Hello All,
Here is my first attempt at a multi piece object. lamp post base, top and glass enclosure were printed separately to allow the led to be installed. I will have to tweak the settings for the glass enclosure for a better fit. The beauty of the software is you can take an object and scale it however you please. This is done in O scale 1/48 Here is a pic of the lamp post.
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I have found that it's easier and faster to print parts you cannot find and connect them to parts you can find.
So I rarely print tubes I can find on Plastruct,
The base and head frame printed will have connecting tubes to fit the Plastruct tubes and holes for the LED(s)
I can't believe you got that detail out of that printer! Pretty awesome! I have the same exact printer. I guess I just need to work on my settings. I'm usually printing larger objects though so I have higher speeds and extrusion rates.
What slicer program do you use?
The lamppost looks great, John!!
@BillYo414 posted:I can't believe you got that detail out of that printer! Pretty awesome! I have the same exact printer. I guess I just need to work on my settings. I'm usually printing larger objects though so I have higher speeds and extrusion rates.
What slicer program do you use?
I used what was available, so I can't take credit, I didn't get that detail... lol I used cura slicer and the settings built in for CR-10s pro
I was pleasantly surprised to say the least.
@Mark Boyce posted:The lamppost looks great, John!!
Thanks Mark,
@AlanRail posted:I have found that it's easier and faster to print parts you cannot find and connect them to parts you can find.
So I rarely print tubes I can find on Plastruct,
The base and head frame printed will have connecting tubes to fit the Plastruct tubes and holes for the LED(s)
That sounds like a great idea! My first venture into 3d printing and am just getting an idea what this can do and can't do. Thanks for the great idea to selectively print.
Here is a printed culvert bridge measues 4" x 4.75" I was again surprised at the level of detail and this was using the stock Cura slice settings. Thanks for comments in advance!
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That's really cool John. I've been tempted to try 3D printing. One day......
How's the rehab going?
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:That's really cool John. I've been tempted to try 3D printing. One day......
How's the rehab going?
Bob
Thanks Bob for your comment and asking about rehab,
The rehab is overall going well, they tell me you have good days and some not so good. I have been having some good weeks and some definitely not so good. For the past 8 days I have been feeling worse with pain increasing and stregth decreasing. Yesterday morning was low point, after leaving several messages at doctors office I finally talked to them and they had me come in to check things out. No infection or blood clots, that was the good news. Bad news is they don't know if my hobbling around recovering from knee replacement knocked my sciatica out of whack. They did give me a steroid pack to take for five days. I started that last night and today had a HUGE improvement. It has been a little over six weeks since surgery so I should have been much further along by this time. I am really really glad this helped and now I can get back to physical therapy (which they stopped because I was in so much pain)
Now maybe I can stop the pain meds and have a clear enough mind to actually think and work on the railroad! Hopes are high at this point!
Again Thanks
John
Wow! The culvert bridge looks fantastic!
John, I'm glad the steroid pack seems to be helping already! I understand the ups and downs. I know sciatic pain can be devastating! Hopefully you will be able to get back at the therapy.
That bridge is fantastic! I never thought to try a bridge. Will you paint it?
The sciatic nerve sure can be a pain. It would be nice if humans could get an update like our phones to address some faulty nerves haha
@BillYo414 posted:That bridge is fantastic! I never thought to try a bridge. Will you paint it?
The sciatic nerve sure can be a pain. It would be nice if humans could get an update like our phones to address some faulty nerves haha
Yes it came out almost perfect, and it was from thingiverse for HO scale and my only contribution was to resize/scale it for O scale 1:48 I plan on painting it and weathering it also, which I have no experience doing, so if I mess it up then I'll print another one. It did take a little over seven hours to print. Of which I only checked up on it every 20 minutes or so while I worked on something else.
As for the sciatic nerve, I am getting relief from the steroids they prescribed and hopefully it will settle down again. It has been two years since I have been to chiropractor, hoping for another two this time around. With all new hips and knees I have run out of excuses to tell my wife why I can't do something. LOL
Thanks John
Thanks
@Mark Boyce posted:Wow! The culvert bridge looks fantastic!
John, I'm glad the steroid pack seems to be helping already! I understand the ups and downs. I know sciatic pain can be devastating! Hopefully you will be able to get back at the therapy.
Yes, Mark you are all to familiar with pain, you have the drive and spirit to plow through it where others would give up. Kudos to how much you have gotten accomplished while you entertained sciatic pain for so long. Hoping yours finally gets some well deserved respite for at least the next 30 years. You do amaze me with the quality work you do, then add the pain into the equation, your work goes beyond fantastic.
thanks for being so inspiring!
I just finished up a 26 hour print. I checked it twice an hour haha it can be nerve racking.
Please do share how the painting goes and how you do it. I have a tremendous amount of painting to do on my prints but don't know the first thing about painting them.
John, I'm glad the steroid is helping!! 
Like I mentioned in response to a comment on my Blackwater Canyon Line thread, I have been able to do most of it standing up and have the right height table to not have to bend much. That is the least painful position. In a couple more weeks, I should know if the anti-inflammatory works. An older friend from my retired men's Bible study has had great pain relief from a relatively new process that they use at some pain clinics near Pittsburgh. I have the documentation and requests for x-rays and test results filled out in case this doesn't help.
Bill, sounds to me that it is like watching grass grow.
We all know how badly I hate painting haha @Mark Boyce
Mark,
I feel your pain sciatic was the worst. Had back surgery for it and it worked wonders. Pain is gone but I have to be careful lifting heavy object to prevent it from reoccurring.
Marty
Marty, I'm glad the pain is gone. I had lumbar fusion last May. The surgery was successful, but the sciatic pain came back as soon as they had me go off the anti-inflammatory. I'm doing good for 65 in my opinion. Many friends didn't make it that far
Help! In my quest to finalize my electrical needs and start wiring the control area, it appears as I have some issues with AIU needs. The general electrical power is divided into 3 power districts. The main lines have five blocks each, which is extremely manageable with two AIU's However, add the spurs, 8 tracks for the roundhouse and probably 8 more for the yard and the total blocks to control with the AIU's goes up to 35 power blocks. Still doable until you add in the 21 switches that need to be controlled and I haven't counted the accessories. Besides purchasing two more AIU's is there another work around? I was also looking at local toggle switches for round house, yard and spur power blocks to be used in either the AIU or toggle switch would be in control. Right now the requirements are out of control. lol All suggestions are appreciated for sure!
John- I would use local switches for the yard and roundhouse tracks. GunRunner John makes a nice watchdog generator that will properly wake up DCS engines when power is applied. IIRC- he used one TIU channel for the whole 10-track yard, and just toggles power as needed. Check out his build thread.
Mark has them installed on his layout too and can share some pix.
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:John- I would use local switches for the yard and roundhouse tracks. GunRunner John makes a nice watchdog generator that will properly wake up DCS engines when power is applied. IIRC- he used one TIU channel for the whole 10-track yard, and just toggles power as needed. Check out his build thread.
Actually, the WD generator board uses the now hard to find MTH 50-1033 DCS Remote Commander as a signal generation base.
Bob and John,
MANY thanks for your valued input! I was lucky and purchased a couple of the 50-1033 remotes and with John's help, have the watchdog barking, at least on the o-scope. Not tested in real life yet.
I will take your sage advice and install local switches for the roundhouse and yard. Makes sense, since the action is there and so the operator will be close observing the maneuvers. That brings the total down to 21 for power blocks controlled by the AIU. Two main lines using 10 blocks and spurs using 11. With 21 switches that is a total of 42 AIU outputs. So one more AIU would do it and accessories! Sounds better from even the standpoint of trying to find all those blocks and switches on a MTH hand held or iPad etc...
Thanks for the help!
John
FWIW, I used manual ground throws on the switches to my 10-track yard as all the switches are readily accessible from the front of the layout In addition, each of the ten tracks has an illuminated power switch as well. I am indeed using the WD Generator on all my tracks, I have four of them feeding each of the four TIU channels.
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@RSJB18 posted:John- I would use local switches for the yard and roundhouse tracks. GunRunner John makes a nice watchdog generator that will properly wake up DCS engines when power is applied. IIRC- he used one TIU channel for the whole 10-track yard, and just toggles power as needed. Check out his build thread.
Mark has them installed on his layout too and can share some pix.
Bob
John,
I installed John's watchdogs on each of my 2 TIU outputs and 3 AIUs. I am using 21 AIU outputs to control track power. I bought toggle switches, but didn't install them. Turning track power on and off with the handheld remote has worked well for me. On the other hand, I wired the AIUs to operate 13 DZ1000 turnout controllers, but have found it easier to use the fascia mounted push buttons. I have not set up routes in the remote to select more than one switch at a time. once I do that, I may find it useful to use the remote.
I wasn't quite done wiring when I took this photograph, but you can see the layout.
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@Mark Boyce posted:I am using 21 AIU outputs to control track power.
You do realize the AIU relays are rated at either 4 amps or 5 amps, right?
@gunrunnerjohn posted:You do realize the AIU relays are rated at either 4 amps or 5 amps, right?
Thank you John. I was told that when I was planning and have them connected to 10 amp relays on boards with 8 relays each. It’s always good to double check.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:You do realize the AIU relays are rated at either 4 amps or 5 amps, right?
Hi John,
Thanks for the reminder! I thought I opened the AIU's up last year and saw all the relays were rated 10 amps, which I thought was not in keeping with what has been posted. I can certainly use relay boards to handle the heavy lifting and the AIU's for controlling those relays. That will not be an issue if that is what needs to happen. Old age is terrible on the memory boards in my head. I think I still have core memory, which is ancient by today's standard. LOL
So I will open again after I pamper my wife today for being such a great Mom!
Thanks
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you John. I was told that when I was planning and have them connected to 10 amp relays on boards with 8 relays each. It’s always good to double check.
Thanks Mark,
It is ALWAYS good to double check. I just need to remember.
There were some AIU's with 10A relays, but there were also some with 5A relays. As I recall, MTH rated the box at 4 amps. Remember, even though they added 10A relays, the board layout is still the same. For 1 oz copper traces, to support 10 amps, the traces need to be almost .2" wide, and for internal layers they would have to be almost half an inch wide! I suspect there is a lot more than just the relays that figure into the power rating.
Great points GRJ!
Although that was one of the benefits of originally using remote relays to switch power to the blocks. Was just in the middle of that project using esp8266-12E and esp32 micro controllers with relay boards. So the original intention was to use AIU to set an Interrupt pin on esp32 to high and it would then, over the air, send that command to the esp8266-12E which controls a relay to actually switch power to the block. My mind went off topic when I was counting blocks and switches and came up with less AIU outputs than I had things to control. Initially I was looking for possibly a shift reg. solution or I2C. However your points are certainly well taken and as always very sage advice to look at the overall scheme and not just at a single specification. Not sure why MTH went with 10A relays if the circuitry does not support it. Could be availability or cost at the time. But it does seem intuitive that a circuit board was designed for 4A relays and then they throw in 10A. It would not be a reliability or performance factor. Sorry, that is my mind wandering again! LOL Again thanks for the big picture look.
I will still use the above micro controllers for the AIU outputs for the mainline power blocks and spurs, with toggle switches for yard and round house. Also looking into manual throws for the yard switches. I am using Ross switches, I see caboose ind. Ross uses manual throw and lighted signal. Also see all aboard trains has a nice brass lighted throw. Any recommendations???
My guess on the relay change would likely be availability or cost issues. I know that I've recently had several parts I use go obsolete in favor of identical function but higher capacity parts. They work fine in my application, but that's because the product is designed to the previous part's ratings.
All other specifications being equal, a 10A relay should be usable in any application that previously used 5A relays, just not at it's full capacity.
I am sure you are correct on the obsolete part or they got a better deal on 10A relays. I did double check and they are Omron 10A relays. However like you said the runs on the board my fry with currents above 5 amps. So I will use the original plan for power blocks using remote micro controlling 10A relays. And of course Bob's ,GRJ and Marks recommendation on manual on/off switches for the Yard and Round house blocks
.
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Working on power control panel for round house whiskers, and yard tracks. 3D printed a panel that has places for ten switches, nine for roundhouse (8 whiskers and one rotating roundhouse track) and one for bridge power. Need to paint and then mount onto fascia. To cut down on AIU switch control, I purchased a manual throw from All-aboard-Trains to possibly use on the yard switches I can reach. I am thinking about using them on Ross switches, anyone have these throws and any suggestions for mounting and connecting? It is a beautiful throw, that feels sturdy with quality workmanship. I'd like to use them for sure.
Well, if we knew which manual throw you're talking about, maybe we could comment. 
I use the Caboose Industries ground throws I bought from Ross Switches.
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Sorry about that all, yes more info would have been helpful.
It is : O Scale Racor/Adlake Switchstand 3 Rail TAS104
To be used on: Ross Switches #100M and #101M
These are on the pricey side for sure, however I do not need many. Just need them to work! Thanks GRJ I was also looking at the caboose throws. Not sure if I can add a link to the site here:"https://all-aboard-trains.com/index.php/movies-books/the-mechanic-detail" This may help...
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Hmm... According to that site, this is the TAS 104
The one you picture appears to be this one.
Pricey little devils.
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Here is a Pic I took of the item I purchased. 
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I'd say that site is somewhat confused.
Both TAS 104s look great! I hope you get what you are expecting, John!
@gunrunnerjohn posted:I'd say that site is somewhat confused.
If one looks closely, their are two descriptions in the above mentioned pictures. One is 2 rail, one is 3 rail.
Quick update. I have been working on remote control for powering track blocks, and also using the same setup to control turnouts. So far I have it set up using a ESP32 getting a signal from AIU relay then sending it to the appropriate receiver on a wemos (esp8266 family) that then controls the relay to power a track section. So I do not have to run wires from the AIU to the power blocks, that is done over the air. More info to follow.
John, You tell me this after I have run all my wires?? I would probably find running wires easier than getting the ESPs to work. I don't even know what they are. However, for a person that knows, it sounds like a great idea that everyone will want to see what you are doing!!!
Hello All,
For just a brief illustration, I have an MTH AIU SW1 "IN" is tied to ground and "1" is tied to SW1 input of the controller board. Controller (32A3) gets an interrupt when these inputs go from a pullup high to ground. The interrupt sends data over the air to the remote board (WE01) which then energizes or de-energizes the relay it is assigned to toggle. These remote relays will be used to control block power and turnouts. The relays are rated to carry the load of any of the isolated power blocks. The remote board has a 5 VDC power supply which uses the 18 Vac of the always on power block feeds. Now I just need to mount the remotes and wire to the AIU's Sorry this took so long to show, I did not have an idea on how to set the MTH system up to power and control the AIU's. I didn't know how to get the battery case off the handheld remote. lol That is solved, and now to get busy building again!
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Sorry for the poor videos', I am AV challenged! The blue leds on the boards are just heart beats to show they are functioning. The WE01 bd. has a red led associated with the relay being energized. Maybe it would be better to show the relay turning on a light or fan? However at this point I am pleased with the results and will test all three boards to see if any cross talk or interference from DCS occurs. (I am hoping not) yes hoping is not very scientific! LOL
John, It sounds like from what you wrote you are well on your way. I agree, I can go for quite some time trying to work something out, and there is nothing to show from my effort so to speak. Then all of a sudden things come together and there is progress to show others.
As for the two .mov files, I was not able to get ether to play on my pc. When I hit play, the box just goes black except for a tiny OGR logo in the lower right hand corner. I thought maybe it is my pc because it is old and extremely slow, and we have just been putting up with it instead of buying a new one. However, when I tried to run the videos on the iPhone 10, they don't run either. There I see the still picture and the little OGR logo logo in the lower right. I am guessing there is an issue with the way you posted the .mov files.
Probably they are not the right format? They were on my iPhone and sent to computer for posting. Thanks for the heads up. I see them play on my end, but I don't need to see them, forum members may like to see them, I'll check it out.
.Mov files can be challenging to view depending on what its being used with. The MPEG codec is usually more universal. The new Apple version is using the High Efficiency Video Codec or HEVC. This needs a converter to play in non-Apple products. There is a easy fix if using a newer iPhone, export in an MPEG format.
Thank you, Jeff! This luddite needed to be updated.
I have been taking .mov files on the iPhone, then downloading them to the pc, where I then post to YouTube. Then I embed the YouTube link in the post. It is a pain, and I seldom post videos because of it, but it works.
I just tried to convert to a MOV format but it came out M4V Does this format work here? Please let me know so I can properly post videos.
Thanks in Advance
John
@ScoutingDad posted:.Mov files can be challenging to view depending on what its being used with. The MPEG codec is usually more universal. The new Apple version is using the High Efficiency Video Codec or HEVC. This needs a converter to play in non-Apple products. There is a easy fix if using a newer iPhone, export in an MPEG format.
I have an iPhone 12 how do I exprot in MPEG format? Yes I am that smart phone challenged...
ok Is this viewable?
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Yes, it is.
Wow never seen this before, when I start the video, my screen turns completely dark, flashes a couple of times and then comes back. So no it does not work for me on a Windows Desktop.
@ScoutingDad posted:Wow never seen this before, when I start the video, my screen turns completely dark, flashes a couple of times and then comes back. So no it does not work for me on a Windows Desktop.
back to the drawing board... Does anyone else have iPhone 12 and post videos??? Hate reinventing wheel! HELP!
@Aegis21 posted:back to the drawing board... Does anyone else have iPhone 12 and post videos??? Hate reinventing wheel! HELP!
It works fine for me on a Windows desktop. I see LEDs blink and hear relays operate.
@Mark Boyce posted:It works fine for me on a Windows desktop. I see LEDs blink and hear relays operate.
Thanks for the feedback Mark
Well Live and learn (the hard way lol ) I never realized that the AIU had 30 replays to control 20 outputs. So 20 relays control 10 turnouts with a pulse output of .5 seconds. Wish I had that info a couple of weeks ago. Not that big of a deal, I just need to change some relay boards from 4 relays to eight relays. It looks like I can still secure them to my mounting plates. Also, some programming changes needed to be done which I have just completed. Mostly having the remote boards handle 8 inputs from the AIU interface board. I have ordered the relay boards and will start testing and interferences from DCS or to DCS and also Legacy controls. I do have one 8 relay board I can use for the first remote, so that can be completed as well.
Off to look for a video on connecting wires to Gargrave track.
Here is a short video trying to show what I have trouble explaining. Using the dcs remote thru the AIU and homemade AIU interface board. I can remotely control block power and turnouts. Sending the appropriate data to the remote cards using their Mac Addresses and up to eight bits for each remote to control up to eight relays. Please feel free to ask any questions. Thanks in advance
John
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It looks great, John! Nice job!
Thanks Mark! Now I can start/continue wiring the layout for basics like track power, and remote control board power etc. Still working on train detection for signaling and occupancy. I have the detection circuits built, and tested on the bench. They need tracks and trains to fully pass the test of real life electrical noise. So I am leaning towards having both mail lines powered when system is started (default setting), and power spurs as needed. Any thoughts? Anyone?
