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I fired up the layout this morning to run some trains.  I had parked my legacy 0-8-0 on a siding the other day and everything worked fine.  I decided to do some switching and called up the switcher on the legacy remote.  No sound.  At frist I thought it didn't work at all and maybe a power drop to the siding went bad or came loose.  I turned the knob on the cab2 do and it moved forward.  Ok so the locomotive works and responds to commands but the tender isn't do anything.  No rear headlight when I go in reverse and no sound.  I can't test to see if the couplers fire because it was replaced with a kadee long ago.

 

It seems that the tender isn't getting any power.  I didn't have time to really test it so it went onto the shelf and my ten wheeler took over switching duties.  

 

Any suggestions on what I should try tomorrow when I get home?

 

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Still no sound.  I checked the switch and it is on RS.  There is no bell or whistle sound either when I blow the whistle form the cab 2.

 

I switched the tender from a known working legacy locomotive and put it on my 0-8-0 and it worked fine.  I put the tender from the 0-8-0 on the known working locomotive and no sound or lights.  The issue is definitely in the tender.  

 

I will try switching out railsounds boards tomorrow morning.  If that doesn't work I will have to take it up to Wild Bills and see if Elmer can figure it out.  

Just track back from the roller feeds.  The first thing I'd do is just measure between the two center-rail rollers and make sure they're at least connect together.  Then start tracing up from there.  Also, a close physical examination of all the connectors and wiring to see if there's something simple like a loose connector or broken wire.  Many times, these things are the simple ones.  Don't forget to make sure the wheels have continuity to the frame and to the connection to the board.

 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Just track back from the roller feeds.  The first thing I'd do is just measure between the two center-rail rollers and make sure they're at least connect together.  Then start tracing up from there.  Also, a close physical examination of all the connectors and wiring to see if there's something simple like a loose connector or broken wire.  Many times, these things are the simple ones.  Don't forget to make sure the wheels have continuity to the frame and to the connection to the board.

 

Bingo, do just what John said. I was looking on the Lionel parts diagram, and I was going to post the diagram here for you. But it only shows the shells and chassis. I don't know why.

 

 

Thanks,

Alex

Originally Posted by Boxcar Bill:
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

That presumes he has a known good board.

 

He swapped tenders, so he should have one.

Are the boards interchangeable?

 

The working board I have is from a legacy ten wheeler.  I dont wanna put that in the tender and ruin it if they are not interchangeable.

 

I do know the sound boards are because I have switched them around in the past.     

I pulled the power board from the working tender and installed it in the 0-8-0 tender.  Still nothing.  I pulled all the boards from the tender to see if there was a broken wire or something from the rollers, nope everything looks good.  I am at a loss.  

 

Once the kids nap i will pull out my meter and see if I can find something else.  

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Did you actually use the meter to measure continuity from the rollers and the wheels to the respective locations on the RS motherboard?

What I had done is unplugged the lead from the rollers/wheels and measured the continuity from the rollers to their respective ends on the plugs and the same from the wheels to the plug.  How would I measure it from the mother board to the rollers when I plug it back in.  Where on the mother board would I put the probe of the meter?

New development!

 

When I swapped power boards I only tried the known working board in the 0-8-0's tender with no luck.  When I went to put the tender back together that it came out of I just put the original 0-8-0's power board back into that tender thinking that it wasn't the issue. 

 

Put it on the layout and no sound.   Put it's original board back in and works normal.

 

So it can mean several things.

 

1) the power boards between the tenders are not interchangeable even thought they look identical.  

 

2) the power board and something else is wrong with the 0-8-0's tender since the known working board didn't fix the issue.  

 

Still stumped and want to fix this soon. The car ferry is waiting to be loaded and the union demands that a proper switcher be used to load it.  

Originally Posted by grp24:

I have found that even though all the plugs look like they are in place, a single wire will not be making good contact. At your own risk , place the locomotive and tender (with the shell off) on the track, power it up, and check all the wires at the plugs. Just a thought...

 

Still no luck.  It is now boxed up and will be heading to wild bills on my lunch hour tomorrow.   Hopefully Elmer can fix it up good.

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