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Greetings,

 To fix the wrongly painted Legacy J Engines, what paint do you folks recommend to use on Lionel bodies?  Or is there someone who knows a good painter of O gauge locomotives out there?  I am confident I can paint the strip but the writing maybe an issue so I may have to outsource it.  Some help here would be great, thanks. 

Last edited by OGR CEO-PUBLISHER
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MicroScale makes a N&W O-gauge decal set for steamers from 1919-1961. Here is the link, O Scale - Norfolk & Western Steam Locomotives (1919-1961) - 2 Sheets -- Stock# 48-78

Paint is a different story. I do my own custom paint from time to time and I use Floquil if I can find it in the colors I want. It is an enamel, which is my preference for paints. It isn't made anymore, so you'll have to search eBay for it. ModelFlex and Badger make good acrylics and are usually easier to find. Trucolor is another good acrylic if you can find it. I don't think it is made anymore. There are differences in the colors of some of them, so you'll have to do some research or just buy a few and go with the one you like better. I have done that myself in the past. It costs a little more to buy paint you won't use, but if you don't have an LHS to look at them in person, then you may not have another option.

There are a few custom painters out there. I am sure someone will point you in the right direction if you choose that route.

Last edited by Mike D
Mike D posted:

MicroScale makes a N&W O-gauge decal set for steamers from 1919-1961. Here is the link, O Scale - Norfolk & Western Steam Locomotives (1919-1961) - 2 Sheets -- Stock# 48-78

Paint is a different story. I do my own custom paint from time to time and I use Floquil if I can find it in the colors I want. It is an enamel, which is my preference for paints. It isn't made anymore, so you'll have to search eBay for it. ModelFlex and Badger make good acrylics and are usually easier to find. Trucolor is another good acrylic if you can find it. I don't think it is made anymore.

Tru-Color Paint is still available, and can even be order by mail directly from them see  www.trucolorpaint.com 

There are differences in the colors of some of them, so you'll have to do some research or just buy a few and go with the one you like better. I have done that myself in the past. It costs a little more to buy paint you won't use, but if you don't have an LHS to look at them in person, then you may not have another option.

There are a few custom painters out there. I am sure someone will point you in the right direction if you choose that route.

 

As Mike said, Microsacle will be your best bet for new decals.....repainting that stripe dead right perfect will be a little tricky......I’d assume you’re gonna try and save the gold perimeter stripe surrounding the red ........you’d better get really good at masking....patience, trial, and error will pay off...plus running test samples on scrap pieces to get the color just how you want it would be my first step....be sure to do both pieces at the same time to ensure a uniform color.....I’d protect the gold perimeter gold stripe, lightly blend down the existing lettering with very fine paper....1000 grit or finer.....then very lightly scuff the red that’s on there, being very careful around that thin gold stripe....wipe that red freshly scuffed stripe very lightly dampened cloth with alcohol.......then I’d airbrush my new red....after all that cures really good, add new decals, peel back the tape over the gold stripe, mask all the surrounding area, and blend in with a satin clear over the entire striped area, gold stripe, lettering and red.......

on your test piece, after the red you want cures, test whatever clear you intend to use to cover your decals....some clears, be it satin or gloss, can change the outward appearance of some colors....especially reds.........good luck! and have fun!..Pat 

In my opinion you can have decals custom made. I use Circus City decals and he matches decals perfectly including the gold striping. This would be an easier fix than painting the maroon stripe plus gold lettering plus gold pin striping.  The decals on Microscale’s website are not gold lettering and not meant for this version. Just my opinion but I would go with my recommendation here. 

DJ Haney posted:

Hmmmm interesting.  Little worries about the decals as I don’t know if they’re gonna leave a film and stay on for a long time but definitely worth looking into.  Thanks.

Based on many posts over the years, Jeff was one of the best until he quit painting. The decals wouldn't be an issue for him as a very experienced painter. If you haven't done much or any decal work, then spending that kind of money for trial and error probably isn't the best way to go. Handling large decals is somewhat difficult. Based on the options presented here, I would go the Mr. Muffins route. The price to have the stripes repainted is cheaper than getting the decals made and you won't have to do the work or risk messing up about $80 worth of decals. 

Scale paint needs to have smaller ground pigment, as the details on scale models are smaller.    We might think that it should 1/48 size of regular house paint pigment since the scale is 1:48.   However, that may not be practical.    However, realistically model paint has finer ground pigment that full size paint so as not obliterate details such as rivets and door seams when applied to models.

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