# of stripes?

The issue will be the worm gear not the fly wheels.  It took me about 3 days to finally sync my Weaver U25B with my other MTH engines.   Trial and error but in the end it all came to gather. I used the PDF file I received Gunrunner of the MTH Tach tapes. Final result was reduce image to 93%( select printer, select custom scale, print, I then  Used the 27.7 and then added 3 strips.  Not scientific but it worked.

Thank you.

I usually have to adjust as I don't know how to calculate it exactly. I have done many wildly different engines and got them close enough to be used in consists with my MTH.

 A while back I printed a bunch of tapes of different sizes using Dave Hikel's posts. I pretty well exhausted them all trying to get those G scale engines converted. After doing so many, I can get in range usually with a guess. Then another tape after some calculating, and finally a third one (or fourth) to get it exact. Takes me some time that way.

 I don't feel like taking the drive apart to measure the worm. I messed up by attaching the boiler's connections before running her to get the speed correct. I may as well just press on with my guesses.

I agree, don't bother with the worm gear. With the Weaver U25s, they use Lionel type power trucks with the motor mount that is also has the gears in it. A while ago I had a motor go bad and had test fitted an MTH motor from an SD 70 that was dead. The worm gear was to long. At the time I did not have a motor from an f unit to test fit. When I replaced the tape( using the instructions), I found that the engine still ran fast. So I started to experiment with the other sizes. Then with a suggestion from John and since I have the PDF editer I started resizing the print out. Like I said not scientific but it worked. I found the easiest way was to create a lashup then worked the sync from there. I liked what Ted had come up with but in the end it was to much work. The only reason it took 3 days I would work on it for an hour or two each day.

Joe a search on this forum should get that old post.

It is diameter of wheel, ratio but it has to be in comparison to the engine who's sound file is being used.

Otherwise remove a stripe to speed it up or add a stripe to slow it down.  G

Joe:

I hope this is what you're looking for:

Thanks Guys!

Does this calibration synchronize the chuff to driver rotation as well as set the speed or is that a function of the sound file?

Pete

If I understand your question correctly, it does set the timing for the chuffs too.

I converted a USA Trains Dockside engine to PS2. I had too many stripes on the flywheel at first. It was cool to see how it ran at slower speeds. It went crazy at faster ones chuffing away!

 If your too far off on the number of stripes, the board will stop I believe. It's not getting the expected results from the flywheel. I had one do that. When I corrected the tape, the engine ran fine. It kept acting up with the wrong tape on it. So that's what I'm basing that statement on.

Fewer stripes isn't an issue, if the stripes get too small, the sensor will start dropping bits at higher motor rotation speeds.  A few months ago I tried generating tapes with very thin stripes to see what would happen.  I had a test tape that had around 40 stripes on a 30mm flywheel.  At low speeds I didn't have a problem, but when the motor start spinning at a good clip, suddenly the engine would start lurching as it missed counts and then take off at full speed.