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Thanks...

This was by far the most complex decal job I've done.

I've dreaded this project for a long time.

You know it's hard to explain and I know what you are talking about. Al those details for example on the pilots.  MU support castings, the up and downward planes the bolt detail and anything else of dimension is a huge obstacle to be conquered with the decal film.

I use the combination of eye and measuring with a straight edge. I had to cut every stripe and line it up with a starter stripe I could apply above the coupler opening. It is daunting and an incredible amount of time to accomplish. So far on this SD24 I have maybe 20 hours. You can't rush these things; the red bottle sure helps and excellent decal film is absolute must! Those stiff old Champ decals would have been a nightmare.

I have over 20 years experience with decals and even more if you include my pre-teen years. I pulled on all my experience to get this right. An excellent Understanding of how decal film acts and responds to water and a razor sharp medical blade is paramount. I also use distilled water exclusively; a Stratford water color brush ($150) the absolute best soft soft soft absorbent bristles for pushing the softened decal around details and moving a delicate decal around those planes I wrote above.

How did I keep them straight? I pick landmarks or in the airplane hobby we call them "cheat lines" a landmark on the model I can lean on for an angle and set out a master in place. A scrap piece of striping used as a gauge for distance between stripes I set out one at a time inching along... Yeah it's tedious but works well and gives a painted on appearance.

Next up touch up of the black, automotive paint and a satin (dull/gloss 60/40 ratio) top coating. It would be hard to not say it wasn't factory. I like some small flaws it reminds me it is custom and a one of a kind.

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Last edited by Erik C Lindgren

Thanks for the detailed response Erik, it was exactly what I was getting at. But it begs a follow up question... If someone was more of a novice with decals, do you think they would be better off masking and painting? Speaking for myself, I know given enough time I could get the masking done right. It would be tedious and time consuming, but I'd get there eventually. But with decals, for me, I'd be afraid of investing tons of time only to have broken decals and crooked stripes, and be wanting to start all over again. Your thoughts?

I would never mask these stripes; no way-- I don't have the patience for that.. The biggest problem is maskings inability to tightly adhere to the sharp steep angles present on the model. Decals have the ability to wrap around and back up against a surface that would be too small for even the thinnest most flexible masking tapes by Tamyia of Gunze. I guess if you wanted to try it but that risk is there of the silver paint feathering out on every hinge casting along the side of the body. Maybe a touch up brush could be used however in my opinion washing screwed up decals off a model is easier that striping and repainting again.
sorry Gregg don't have an answer, because I don't know whats in the way.  I would apply heat from behind and touch up paint as needed.  best answer I can give.  Bob Anson
 
Originally Posted by Gregg Laiben:
Bob, how would you unsolder the parts without damaging the original paint job?  I've a Rich Yoder 25 tonner that has a few parts in the way and was wondering what to do with the finish.
 
Thanks...gregg  
 
Originally Posted by Bob Anson:

I would unsolder the parts that were in the way and reattach when finished.

 

 

Laquer top coat ... Brings it all together nicely. And I OBSESSED over finding every stinky little bit of silvering and I still got some on those miserable doors on the sides.  It's not dead on perfect but with weathering this model will be the talk of any yard track. It's darn right cool looking!


About ready for touch up and fitting. Painting the details such the window frames and installation of the glazing. Oh that's fun.

Ok- Back to work.

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Originally Posted by DaveJfr0:

Nice work - thanks for sharing.  I can't believe you did every stripe by hand. I can't imagine doing the same or the pilot stripes I do on my southern engines.  I don't have that kind of patience.

 

Curious...

What kind of primer, black automotive paint, and super gloss overcoat do you use?  How do you spray it?  I find the model paints I have aren't as black as some of the factory paint used by the importers...Also, testors glosscote isn't the glossiest around, but the super gloss enamel I've seen added a yellow tint to whatever its underneath it.

 

Also, the white is very opaque in the photo's.  Who/what did you use to print them?

 

White stripes? Or are they Silver?

Originally Posted by Erik C Lindgren:
Thanks...
... I like some small flaws it reminds me it is custom and a one of a kind.

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Agreed.  Not only that, but the prototypes had flaws, as well... from body work, paint work, work wear and beaten.  The guys were building locomotives, not show cars.  There's going to be weld and seams visible.

 

I like the way this turned out!

 

PS - NICE NOSE!

 

Thanks,

Mario

Last edited by CentralFan1976

And here I was expecting to see an actual zebra to go with your giraffe car that you were developing for your Penguins of Madagascar theme train .....

 

Instead, there's these really nice decals........takes a bit of patience and a steady hand to do those that nice. Wait until you get old..........

Thanks Stephen

Here is a note from a AT&SF aficionado:

"  Erik,

The secret to tell them, and you did it perfectly.....Zebras are silver not white, AND to do it right the stripes go from low in the back to high in the front, and ALWAYS from any angle, any viewing point they all have to line up.  You just can't start at a spot and work your way around 360 degrees.   From any 45 degree shot the stripes have to align.

Great job."image

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Last edited by Erik C Lindgren

Thanks Erik.  I always have two reactions to your outstanding work and accompanying outstanding photos and videos.  I'm inspired by your work and I'm bummed by your work.  Inspired for obvious reasons and bummed because I realize I will never come close.  But, when faced with that choice I'll just choose to be inspired.  Keep 'em coming.  Bill

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