Paint removal

Mek

BradA posted:

Mek

On a Williams plastic shell? 

Williams plastic shell, yep.

I was going off my recipe for brass.  In regards to tru color paints, thin 60/40with acetone.

I thought dipping a plastic shell in a bath of MEK you would end up unconscious with a blob of plastic in your hand.

I'm surprised brake fluid didn't do the job unless your using Synthetic Brake Fluid.

Roo.

Roo posted:

I thought dipping a plastic shell in a bath of MEK you would end up unconscious with a blob of plastic in your hand.

I'm surprised brake fluid didn't do the job unless your using Synthetic Brake Fluid.

Roo.

I agree with Roo.  MEK is a VERY strong solvent and will melt plastic!  I use it (sparingly) as a solvent cement for bonding plastic to plastic, even Plexiglass.  Brake fluid, DOT 3, is my choice of paint stripper, if it proves relatively benign to the plastic.  There are many different kinds out there, so be careful.  Some folks have had good results with full strength detergent.  As always, test it first, and be patient.  Some paints are more tenacious than others.

I've never had 91% Isopropyl Alcohol let me down esp. on plastic...though I have had some pieces soak for a week or more. I use covered containers that are air tight. When finished I strain used alcohol thru cheap paper paint strainers and store in original bottles. 

I've had brake fluid search out weak plastic areas and destroy them. Also seen brake fluid start de-laminating plastic...so use wisely. 

Just went through stripping a Weaver RS3 plastic cab. 91% alcohol for 24 hours softened paint but did not remove it. I tried GRJ's Easyoff oven cleaner in a zip bag for 12 hours. Worked very well. This is the original cleaner not the no smell version. Do wear rubber gloves. An old toothbrush and Dawn soap gets it looking great.   

Richard

I mostly use a Castrol super clean bath to soak the model in. Some take MUCH longer than others. For example Weavers are overnight, whereas MTH takes a week or more and still doesn't all come off.

some Chinese paints are really more like inks than paint.

I had an old Weaver hopper and put some full strength Paint remover on it I could see the plastic melting before my eyes I quickly washed it in water and now used this battered hopper for captive ballast duty.

Chris have you ever stripped paint off an Atlas SW ? I have six to do one I just primered over the body on one then painted the top coat it's rough but these locos are for Steel mill duty never seen by the public. I would like to strip the paint on the others. Thanks Roo.

Paint removal demonstration, for plastic models.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omwDdARX6U0

This process maybe helpful for some model railroading applications.  

Good Luck: Gary

The same process, this YT creator I know.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1KPljwLUP8

Good Luck: Gary

Roo,

yes I have. I stripped a Atlas CNJ SW9 to redecorate as a DLW unit. Used the Castrol as mentioned. Since the SW bodies have both plastic and die cast pieces the strip worked a bit differently. I did have to use 300 grit emery paper to finish off the logo and number on the cab side.

I models where the paint did not come off, I found the stripping sufficiently dulled up and removed enough paint(ink) so the new coat adhered well, without to much filling in of detail.

I've also use the Easy-Lift-Off remover, though very carefully.

I went to Tractor Supply and bought a soda blaster, it was the non-messy way to do paint stripping in my opinion. I do it outside, and it rinses away. And baking soda is less than a dollar per box, and only need about 10 boxes per unit, and is pretty quick.

Before:

After:

Blaster is the optional way to go. Mr. Clean eraser might have worked also. You didn’t need to blast the entire shell, just the markings. I would have removed just the stripe and SF In 2 minutes. Blast - feather the red to silver transition. Primer would have given you the same look as you have shown. No need for extra work and time. Cars take less than 5 min each to blast, prep and clean.

Looks good!

I just repainted a postwar Alco set.  I used a product called Purple Power.  It is not as costic as other chemicals and will not deteriorate the plastic shell.  A gallon container, at Walmart, is $5.00. Note, Walmart does not stock it however you can order it online for pick up same day or next day.    This product works great. It will take the paint off in about two hours.  I purchased a plastic container and poured the Purple power into it and just let the shells soak fully submerged.   Afterwords, use an old toothbrush and scrub the shell. The paint will fall right off.

Thank you Sirt!

Markings came off fast. I used a Magic eraser and and some liquid Dawn. It came off in a couple of minutes. I have been wanting to strip and paint this shell for some time. 

Have a Happy Easter everyone,

Bob

Casey Jones2 posted:

I've never had 91% Isopropyl Alcohol let me down esp. on plastic...

I've had isopropyl alcohol fail to do much at all routinely.   Wasted weeks of time on two cars that barely moved any off the plastic.

Good to see that a few others were surprised at the suggestion of MEK,

The results of that soda blaster look great!  How about some more information on brand name and model number?  Others might find that something useful to invest in...

I tried every product under the sun since the 60's, several minutes of removal and no mess using the blaster.

BOOM - DONE!!!!!!!!!!!! 

Don't have time for non-sense.

SIRT posted:

I tried every product under the sun since the 60's, several minutes of removal and no mess using the blaster.

BOOM - DONE!!!!!!!!!!!! 

Don't have time for non-sense.

Well. tell us more - Where did you buy the blaster at? What is the cost of this cost of this "Blaster" ?

I AGREE: NO TIME OF FOR NON-SENCE - but please give more information.

Gary

Hi Sirt

I bought a Central Pneumatic Air Eraser 99636 back in the day.  I ran bi-carb soda and it clogged up.

I've never used it again since.

Is there something better than Bi-carb?

Cheers

 Really nothing to tell. Go to the store and purchase these items if you have a compressor set-up.

 http://www.harborfreight.com/b...t-cabinet-62454.html

 https://www.samsclub.com/sams/...?xid=plproduct:1:4

 Have fun!

Yep.  Got the baking soda.

Maybe mine's just a dud.  Back in the box. 

Went and bought non-synthetic brake fluid. Already working. Suprise, surprise.

Dick

Baking Soda • Vetting

Gary: From Where Baking Soda Grows on Trees...... 

SIRT posted:

 Really nothing to tell. Go to the store and purchase these items if you have a compressor set-up.

 http://www.harborfreight.com/b...t-cabinet-62454.html

 https://www.samsclub.com/sams/...?xid=plproduct:1:4

 Have fun!

That is two of the three things needed, what "Blaster" did you use?

Also,
What PSI are you using?
Is there a way to control spraying at the spray head (think spray gun trigger - on/off) or is it continuously on?

This is a way of paint removal that I have been considering for a long time and would like to learn more about.

BradA posted:

Mek

NEVER

Well, spent 3 hours today with a sanding stick, #11 Exacto knife, a couple emery boards, 400 grit w/d sand paper and an adult beverage. What does Williams use to paint those E units. A baseball bat sounds pretty good. 

Any further advice?

Dick

ELOFF works with Williams. Mth is the toughest paint to get because you have to strip multiple coats of clear coat done on top of the paint. Williams, Weaver, Lionel and K-Line are not as difficult than MTH Diesel locomotive paint.

What is ELOFF where do I find it? 

Thanks

Dick

ELOFF is Testor's EZ Liftoff.  A slow acting paint remover that I've had success removing Heralds, logos and numbers with little to no damage to the underlying base color.  I don't know how well it would work stripping the base color.

It's available at hobby shops and probably on line if there are no local hobby shops near you.