Phillips head screw problem

Try a common or flat tip screwdriver, sometimes that will work.

 

Clem

Not sure if it applies, but I have seen that if I am using a cordless screwdriver with a philips bit, once it starts slipping out of the head, the tip gets small metal particles, and they sort of act like bearings and make further use slip out. I take a rag and wipe off the bit to get them off.

 

I trick I learned from a machinist was to take a Dremel and cut a slot in the head of a screw that got buggered up. You really have to have the touch though. Depends if you care about the aluminum shelves or not.

I've had screws where I just drill the head off, but this leave the body of the screw behind.  All depends on what the end goal is.

Questions I would have are:

 

Are you using the right sized screwdriver head?  #1, #2

 

Try a new screwdriver head, yours may have gotten damaged without your realizing it.

 

Art

Ther is also the difference in Standard Phillips, JIS and other crosspoint screws.

They vary in slot width Vs Depth and some don't actually go to a point.

Wrong screwdriver in those is sure to strip out.

Hack saw blade and cut a slot straight across. then use a straight screwdriver.  If you get enough out, vice grips.

Charlie,

sinclair's idea is the one that does work. The damage has been done. All you want to do is remove the shelf, correct?

After the shelf is removed you might be able to use vise-grips to remove the rest of the screw. If not just tap with a hammer to put screw below the surface. Fill the remaining area.

I've cut new slots with a Dremel tool and a cut off disk. But it sounds like some really soft metal screws.....and thus they will strip again. Just use a 3/4" metal bit and drill the heads out.....just stop before the drill gets to the shelf. You can stop just short of the shelf and 'pop' it off..... good luck!

I had the same thing happen removing shelves attached to wall with Philip heads, and stripped. I used a needle nose clamp/locknose pliers. Worked to remove everyone without a hitch.

thank you for the suggestions/

Think the screws were of a poor quality metal and could not take the torque when driven in and just stripped out.

I tried drilling them out but may not have used a quality metal drill bit, because it was taking all day with little success..

 

I thought of the needle nose vice grips but mine are packed somewhere for the move to Florida - Guess I will buy an extra pair.

 

thank you again for all the replies

Dremel tool, it'll cut the heads right off.

 

Yep,

If they are the crappy pan heads, you can get a bite with a small set of vise grips.

It's not going to help you with this situation, but you may want to try Robertson "square head" screws in the future. I've found them very easy to use. They're popular in Canada and you can get them at www.Mcfeelys.com.

 

Gerry

 

Gerry

Next time I will stay with the dry wall screws. Don't know where the bright screws came from but they sure created a problem for me.

If I had a small recip saw, it would make quick work for removing these screws.

Charlie:

 

Be careful with drywall screws.  They are really designed to be driven once into soft fir and can snap easily if slightly overstressed.  I've used square drive screws from McFeeley's for years in both my layout construction and building furniture with assorted hardwoods.  I've never broken or stripped the head on one of these and I've used well over 10,000 of them, many of them have been used multiple times.

I bought a box of stainless steel Philips pan head head screws to hang my aluminum shelves. I wanted to avoid any possibility of the screws deteriorating. So far, so good, and a side benefit is that since stainless is much harder than ordinary steel, the heads hold up better. I have occasionally run into the same problem Charlie did, cheap Chinese imported screws made of soft, inferior steel. The stainless ones made sure that wasn't going to happen. 

I have used a needle-nosed pliers to get it started. It all depends on how much of the screw head you can grip.

What are you using to remove the screws?

Not all that long ago, I ran into a problem with my 1/4 inch impact screw driver stripping the heads of Phillips screws as I tried to remove them. I was using an el cheapo bit.
My son suggested trying a better quality bit.

I did so, and had no further problems.

The better bit was by Dewalt.

I agree with Pat. McFeeley's are well worth it.

If you stripped the head going in, it should not be stripped going out.
Sounds like you really mangled them.

Did you pre drill prior to installing.
Drywall screws are meant to be powered in without pre-drilling.
Not so with pan head or flat head wood or sheet metal screws.
If you do not realize you are doing it wrong in the first place, it is hard to explain the best fix.
One clue is that you said it is taking too long to drill out the head. If the screw really is that soft, than even a dull bit at the correct feed and speed would drill it. 
A good craftsman never blames it on his tools.
After all, you choose to use either the wrong one or an inferior one.

FYI. Stainless screws are "harder". But will shear of much quickly under high torque than regular screws or high grade bolts.
Usually when they bottom out at high speed or when trying to remove at high speed.
Always snug them up on low speed.
Variable speed drill is best.

quote:

A good craftsman never blames it on his tools.

 

A good craftsman takes pride in his tools, and doesn't use junk.

If the screw is soft, as it appears to be, and the head is still in one piece.  I have often used a set of diagonal side cutters to at least get it started.  You can indent the side of the screw with the cutters, may be a bit more grip than a pair if needle nose pliers
I was replacing electrical devices, my daughter's home, Baltimore, MD this weekend.  The home was early 1970's all the screws were straight blade.  The other noted point of interest, was that the slot in the screw head was clean and crisp, a sure fit for any screw driver.  Most screws that seem to be available today are anything but true quality. Most  tool edges are round-ed-over, or tapered making use difficult at best. IMO Good tools are important, but even my Klein hand tools have a hard time with some of the interesting attachment products out there.  

Or you can use the heavy artillery. Hand tool first, and then this reciprocating saw with a decent hack-saw blade behind the shelf edge to cut the screw.