Pine-Sol as a stripper of brass engines

Sounds like an interesting technique as well as fairly safe to breath, etc. What kind of paint were you removing? That may have a lot to do with the success.

George Lasley

It works on plastic as well without damaging it. You can't use the generic stuff, though. Use the genuine stuff.

By the way, some manufacturers (MTH in particular) use a paint process on their plastic shells that appears to be electro-static. We tried to strip some shells and after three days in the Pine Sol the only thing that came off were the pad-printed logos, engine numbers and reporting marks.

Also Pine Sol, Brake fluid, Paint stripper will not take the paint off from the newer brass from Ajin Models. The paint they are using is Automotive paint.
nw2124

Progress - either you are for it, or get out the way!"... SLR

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As a result of a hasty paint job on my Rich Yodder 44t, I could not get my Highball Graphics MEC decals to lay down good enough to prevent excessive silvering. Repeated applications of Micro Sol could not correct my mistake.

DON't repeat/reaply Microsol! All Microsol does is SOFTEN the DECAL to settle in on Cracks, Crevaces, and imperfections 0n the application surface!
After ONE application of Microsol, Let decal settle in on surface. Wait 24 HRS AND DO NOT TOUCH DECAL! Then Brush on Pledge with FUTURE SHINE[found in any Supermarket/big box store! One $6.00 bottle will last you FOREVER!] Let the Pledge w/Futureshine dry for 24 hours and you are good to go! the FUTURESHINE Creates and Acrylic film that protects the decal and BONUS does NOT create "silvering" like Microset/Waltehrs-Solvaset. Many professional modelsers/painters will agree!

I used Pine Sol on a HO gauge Kato/Atlas shell many years ago. The results were a smaller version of the old movie "The Blob!" It liquified the Kato plastic.

I have used it on Willaims shells with great results.

Malcolm

I am getting conflicting information on the use of Future. I have read where it is recommended to apply it to your painted surface prior to decal application. It was said that Future is "self leveling" therefore making for a very smooth surface for the decal to adhere/lay upon. It need only be applied where a decal will sit. I assume this is to replace a coating of gloss coat upon the entire body even where no decals will be applied? Some of you are saying that Future should be used as a top coat only? How does this minimize silvering?

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It need only be applied where a decal will sit. I assume this is to replace a coating of gloss coat upon the entire body even where no decals will be applied?

NOt sure what you are saying. To minimize the Decal edging that one sees on a model, the surface should be a shiny gloss coat. This is because the Future shine will be a shiny gloss coat as well. IF you place gloss coat over a non gloss surface, one will see the edging between the gloss and non gloss surfaces.

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Some of you are saying that Future should be used as a top coat only? How does this minimize silvering?

Future is a liquid Acrylic. IT does NOT "burn" or melt the decal so thre is no paint loss from the decal itself[paint loss is the silvering]

Let's see if I get this. Since the paint I use may not be of a gloss finish, prior to applying decals I need to have a gloss finish. Got that. Can the gloss finish be an application of Future (which should provide a gloss)? or should it be a "real" paint base gloss (ie; similar to either the acrylic or solvent base paint I used? After decals are applied, I should then top coat with future to hide the edges. If I then want a dull finish, I would then need to top coat the Future with Dullcoat. Yes?

When doing decals I always use future. First spray it on the whole model, if you have an airbrush (note: thin with water if needed, and add a drop or two of windex, which will cut the surface tension of the future and you will get a great gloss finish to apply decals). I let the future dry overnight then add the decals and let them dry for 24 hrs. With the gloss finish, there is usually very little or no silvering. Next, I apply one more coat of future over the decals to seal them in, basically sandwiching the decals in a layer of future. Followed lastly by a coat of dullcoat, by this time there is no trace of the decal film, and the decals are protected and almost look like they were dry transfers. Coming from the world of model aircraft building (where there are a lot of compound curves and crevices) I will never decal without future again.

On a second note about future. It is also great to repair scratches on windows and clear plastic as well. I used to use it to repair aircraft canopies that needed to have molded on seam lines sanded off. Starting with 1000 grit sandpaper, moving on down to about 3000 grit, and finally some buffing with a plastic polish (can also use toothpaste, not the gel kind though). After all imperfections have been removed simply dip the clear plastic in the future and set aside to dry. The acrylic will dry into a crystal clear and the window or whatever it is will look great.

Hope this helps

-Paul

I been in the floor business and you know that Future will turn yellow over time. Especially white decals will become yellowish if this is the way you want your model. I hate to buy one of your models not knowing that I will have problems over time. Floquil paint has even changed their gloss coat to a polymer which helps to prevent yellowing. Even your car is clear coated with a polymer and will not yellow over time. I strongly recommend the gloss coat of the paint manufacture! nw2124

"Progress - either you are for it, or get out the way!"... SLR

So, what is the mixture to use Pine Sol to strip plastic? 50/50?
I am ready to strip a couple of MTH shells.
Dan

Diesel Dan:
I use it straight, do not dilute. Warning! Certain plastics will melt, as in the Kato models in HO. NW2124

"Progress - either you are for it, or get out the way!"... SLR