Postwar accessory

Just solder one lead of the tower to the center rail tab on the bottom of the track and the other to the negative.

Or if soldering's not your passion you can plug-n-play by:

1.) Connecting a Plug-and-Play Pigtail (6-82039) to the light tower (you'll only use two of the three wires inside the cable):

2.) Pluging in the plug end of the pigtail into a Fastrack Power Block Lock-On (6-81314):

Putting the switch on the Power Block on "TRK" and it will light, as long as the track is powered up.

3.) If you'd like to turn it on and off separately adding a Remote Control Box (6-82203) in between:

Good luck with it and let us know what you decided to do and how it turns out.

Mike

@Vernon Barry,

With all due respect It'm not leading anyone astray.  I appreciate your expertise and willingness to share it, but ...

I'm just trying to simplify things to make it easier for newbies to be at least somewhat successful in their first few steps.

You add a lot a value to so many of these situations with your precise detail, and the accuracy of your suggestions, but newbies are not asking to be swamped with details.  Such an approach will just scare them away.

Personally I don't know if @TheRoyalHudson988 is a newbie or not, but if not, any others who stumble upon this thread deserve at least one simple alternative, even if it's more expensive, or leads them toward a temporary dead end.

They will learn from it and move forward, as opposed to being frustrated by the complexity of some alternatives, and giving up.

Mike

If/when newbies add more accessories - lighted buildings and/or accessories with lights (Rotary Beacon, Flashing Crossing Signals, Yard Lights, etc.) and/or action accessories, they'll realize the need for an auxiliary transformer set to 14v and wired to a terminal block; from which they can run wires to each accessory -- or provide a bus wire around the layout with tap-in connections as needed.

Another benefit to this method ... the transformer providing track power to the rails for locomotives is not "burdened" by also providing power to lighted and action accessories.

Just saying ...

Mike Mottler   LCCA 12394

@Vernon Barry posted:

My personal opinion, you are being led astray. Sure, you "could" connect to fastrack. You made zero mention of your power source to that fastrack and further if you are running conventional VS command, or Lionchief with 18V DC on the track. So again, sure, you can plug and play and buy the adapters, or solder to the track, or use crimped lugs, but the bottom line- that light now sees whatever voltage is on the track.

Modern plug and play items typically have built in voltage regulators, and they are designed to be more compatible.

Older accessories- tended to have lesser voltage requirements and are not as tolerant of varying voltage, or especially a fixed higher voltage like 18V.

Again, if running conventional, or command, it might be far better to connect that specific incandescent bulb light set into an auxilary or accessory voltage source that either is adjustable or fixed but lesser voltages like 10-14V fixed.

Again, clearly, that is the incandescent version

I forgot to mention that, I have a cw80 transformer as my power source, in fact that’s all I have until I begin to reconstruct my layout. But until that day comes, this is what I have up and working for me.

@Mellow Hudson Mike posted:

@Vernon Barry,

With all due respect It'm not leading anyone astray.  I appreciate your expertise and willingness to share it, but ...

I'm just trying to simplify things to make it easier for newbies to be at least somewhat successful in their first few steps.

You add a lot a value to so many of these situations with your precise detail, and the accuracy of your suggestions, but newbies are not asking to be swamped with details.  Such an approach will just scare them away.

Personally I don't know if @TheRoyalHudson988 is a newbie or not, but if not, any others who stumble upon this thread deserve at least one simple alternative, even if it's more expensive, or leads them toward a temporary dead end.

They will learn from it and move forward, as opposed to being frustrated by the complexity of some alternatives, and giving up.

Mike

When it comes to O scale accessories this is new, especially postwar. But I had O gauge trains since I was a kid. I never thought that in the future I would get this far in the hobby so I’m eager to learn how this all works. Now I could just buy a new set of lights, but since I have access to postwar trains and accessories, it would be interesting to see if it works.

@Mellow Hudson Mike posted:

Or if soldering's not your passion you can plug-n-play by:

1.) Connecting a Plug-and-Play Pigtail (6-82039) to the light tower (you'll only use two of the three wires inside the cable):

2.) Pluging in the plug end of the pigtail into a Fastrack Power Block Lock-On (6-81314):

Putting the switch on the Power Block on "TRK" and it will light, as long as the track is powered up.

3.) If you'd like to turn it on and off separately adding a Remote Control Box (6-82203) in between:

Good luck with it and let us know what you decided to do and how it turns out.

Mike

I do have a soldering kit, it’s in the background behind the floodlight. Not sure if it is worth soldering it because it might not work. Not saying I don’t know how to unsolder, it might not work. But plug and play looks cool because if this light doesn’t work, I can just use that for other accessories I buy in the future.

@Vernon Barry posted:

My personal opinion, you are being led astray. Sure, you "could" connect to fastrack. You made zero mention of your power source to that fastrack and further if you are running conventional VS command, or Lionchief with 18V DC on the track. So again, sure, you can plug and play and buy the adapters, or solder to the track, or use crimped lugs, but the bottom line- that light now sees whatever voltage is on the track.

Modern plug and play items typically have built in voltage regulators, and they are designed to be more compatible.

Older accessories- tended to have lesser voltage requirements and are not as tolerant of varying voltage, or especially a fixed higher voltage like 18V.

Again, if running conventional, or command, it might be far better to connect that specific incandescent bulb light set into an auxilary or accessory voltage source that either is adjustable or fixed but lesser voltages like 10-14V fixed.

Again, clearly, that is the incandescent version

NO ONE LED HIM ASTRAY EXCEPT YOU !!

We answered his "exact" question thoroughly, accurately and concisely.  You are the one who led him astray !

I have the exact same accessory and I use the PnP pigtail, black and red wires. Works fine, no issues. Simple to do.

I don’t understand the 14 ga. wire comment. A little overkill for this accessory but will work. The PnP wire is probably 22 or 24 ga.

Steve

Another option for you is to crimp or solder female quick disconnects to your floodlight wire leads and then plug those onto the tabs beneath the track. IIRC they take .110". Lionel may even have premade hookup wires with these.

Mellow Hudson Mike, can you explain how to hook this thing up to plug and play again? I just looked at this forum and it’s just full of confusion. But the plug and play seems to be the better option for me. I could solder, but I just want something that will work with less work.

Wouldn't the simplest/ easiest/ cheapest method be buying a set of Fastrak accessory power wires, stock 6-12053? Like CK posted.

Why not the accessory terminals on his CW?

I would use those but I don’t think it will fit on my CW accessory terminals.

Hook it up to the track for starters. You will soon get tired of the lights going up and down as you adjust the train's speed. Then you will appreciate the value of using the accessory terminals, or a separate power supply for accessories.

Dave

How do you use the accessory terminals? Do I connect the light to the track first?

@TheRoyalHudson988 posted:

How do you use the accessory terminals? Do I connect the light to the track first?

So from the sound of this question it seems you are very new to the hobby and electronics?  Do you have an instruction manual to the CW? It should explain the connections on the back. If not here is a link...https://www.lionelsupport.com/...ents/71-4198-251.pdf

Note page 9 and 10 discuss use of the accessory voltage connection (terminals B and U on the back of your CW).  Note the CW may not be able to handle alot of extras but a few should be fine.

@TheRoyalHudson988 posted:

... how I can wire up the old Lionel postwar floodlight stand to fastrack?

Skip the track connection and go directly to the programmable accessory output(posts B & U) of your CW80. Follow the programming instructions to get satisfactory light levels... this way the lights will remain at a steady level regardless of the train speed setting.

@Farmall-Joe posted:

So from the sound of this question it seems you are very new to the hobby and electronics?  Do you have an instruction manual to the CW? It should explain the connections on the back. If not here is a link...https://www.lionelsupport.com/...ents/71-4198-251.pdf

Note page 9 and 10 discuss use of the accessory voltage connection (terminals B and U on the back of your CW).  Note the CW may not be able to handle alot of extras but a few should be fine.

I’m not new to the hobby I had trains for a long time, I just never used acrssories, and I also never thought I would take this hobby seriously as I am now. Anyways, thanks for the link I’ll check it out and by the way. Does my CW-80 work with postwar accessories, just thought I would ask.

@TheRoyalHudson988 posted:

I’m not new to the hobby I had trains for a long time, I just never used acrssories, and I also never thought I would take this hobby seriously as I am now. Anyways, thanks for the link I’ll check it out and by the way. Does my CW-80 work with postwar accessories, just thought I would ask.

In looking at the manual i'd say the cw would only be able to handle a few simple accessories like lights and such but running a train and having multiple items like gatemen, sawmill, cattle pens, etc might tax that xfmr.  Also, you'll need to probably adjust the the accessory voltage output per the instructions as there is no need to run lights at 18V (burn out the bulbs) but closer to 18V sometimes is needed for more complicated accessories to get them moving (coal loader for example).  Good luck!

Joe

Unfortunately, this accessory didn’t light up. I connected this straight from the terminals with no result. (I just took the wires off the terminals after I took these photos.)

Did you try it on the track terminals too and see if it lights with raising and lowering the voltage?  If it does ok on the AU terminals you might need to set the CW accessory voltage BU level per the manual.

@TheRoyalHudson988 posted:

Unfortunately, this accessory didn’t light up. I connected this straight from the terminals with no result. (I just took the wires off the terminals after I took these photos.)

Where’s the ground wire?

Ground wire to where?

You need two wires hooked up to the lights from the transformer. One hot(red) and one ground (black) from the transformer. You only show the one wire hooked to the transformer output. Since you are using track voltage from  the transformer you can adjust the brightness of the lights via the orange handle.

@romiller49 posted:

You only show the one wire hooked to the transformer output.

There's two, just a bad angle and really dark.

Thanks Rob. I thought we had him fixed up.

My apologies for the bad picture, I don’t have that much wire to go from the transformer and the track itself. Does anyone know what wire size Lionel used back then? Maybe some wire company makes them.

Common 22 gauge solid wire is fine. You can find it on Amazon as well as other places.

@Train Nut posted:

Common 22 gauge solid wire is fine. You can find it on Amazon as well as other places.

Do you mean silicone wire? Sorry for the late response, it was Christmas.

It doesn't need to be silicone. Any kind of 22 AWG solid wire will work fine.

If you have stranded wire you can use it, it's just harder to work with if you're hooking it up to the clips under the accessory.

Gentlemen
Why we are on the topic, I plan to hook up a culvert loader & unloader and a magnetic crane using a ZW powerhouse set.

I have other options for track power.

Do you see any problem with this set up/transformer?
I’ve never used the unit but this should be simple, I hope. I think I need 14volts to all. Plan is through a buss then split to each unit.

Sorry to hijack the thread. If it is considered rude I will repost.
Please advise.

Thanks

Steven T

Steven,

Assuming you're talking about the Post War Culvert twins, you'll want a variable voltage source to feed them.  Too much voltage will throw the pulley strings off.

Jon

Thank you Kool Jock

the units are the last before command control set

@train steve posted:

Gentlemen
Why we are on the topic, I plan to hook up a culvert loader & unloader and a magnetic crane using a ZW powerhouse set.

I have other options for track power.

Do you see any problem with this set up/transformer?
I’ve never used the unit but this should be simple, I hope. I think I need 14volts to all. Plan is through a buss then split to each unit.

Sorry to hijack the thread. If it is considered rude I will repost.
Please advise.

Thanks

Steven T

That would work fine.  As Steven noted the ability to vary the voltage with your Transformer will help you greatly dail it in to hit the sweet voltage spot.

Thanks Train Nut

Should I  vary the voltage on the Lionel magnetic crane also?     (80s vintage I think) Seems to make sense.

Thanks

Steven T

In an ideal situation you could use one lever of the ZW for each accessory. One for the unloader, one for the loader, and one for the magnetic crane. That way you could pinpoint the best voltage for each. If that's all you are ever going to do with that transformer that's fine. But if you plan on adding accessories or lights etc at a later date it's not practical to have one lever of a transformer for each and every assessory. Sometimes you just have to lump like voltage accessories together and make the best of it. But for now you could dedicate one lever each for your three accessories you have and that would work perfect.