Prewar box coupler maintenance

Sorry, not a very good typist either, meant to say newby, not new year

(hate auto-correct sometimes)

Oil is not the best lube for a solinoid. From surface tension to attacting crud. Just oil pivots/pins lightly.  It is fine to flush with oil to remove rust or whatever, and hit with electrical contzct cleaner to remove excess, but leaving oul along the plunger path is not helping the action. Most solinoids should run dry without lube.

If it REALLY needs help, try graphite (lock-ease) (can be messy) or "dry lube" spray would be my choice. "T-9", dries to a thin teflon based wax-like coating and won't conduct any electricity if it manges to get were it doesn't belong (hard but possible...and T-9 is great stuff. A Boeing aleron lube/anti ice product. I don't use graphite anymore

Spellchecks run amuck at times... might not even be what you typed

Everything Adriatic said, plus you can still get parts from Henning’s, The Train Tender and a number of other suppliers.

Thanks for the help.

I avoid using graphite anywhere around trains. It is messy and stains.

It you go the T-9 route, you can use it quite sparingly and the can will last many years. The stuff works very well imo, I wasted a lot at first on big stuff like van doors frozen shut for a decade, etc.... it penetrates slowly but decently.  Never affected plastics that I saw either.(but may be pita to try and paint after use... silicone does that too fyi )

I also have some Marx switches, how about the T-9 on those also.

a couple of them don’t want to close all the way.

kind of float, instead of locking , causing front wheelers on locomotive to jump