Skip to main content

I decided to pack up my ailing GP38 and send it to a service tech for repair. In the meantime, glutton for punishment that I am, I found a beautiful SD24 with PS2 on the nameless auction site and bought it. The listing said everything was working nicely, but because of it's age, could probably use a new 8.4V battery. Well, it happens I have one, because the PS1 unit I tore out of the Geep had a new one installed.

 

So, here's the quandary: I put the SD24 on the track, and successfully added it to the remote. Started up, the sounds are great. The smoke pours out nicely, all the lights work, direction lights switch when I hid the "DIR" button, couplers open on cue. Odometer has a reading and the chrono increments. But it won't go. 

 

I tried a Feature Reset and a Factory Reset. I went to the System/DCS menu and made sure that the channel was turned (Fixed 2). I set Var1 to Fixed and switched to that channel just in case there was something wrong with Fixed 2. (This is the unit from a previous post that may have a blown TVS in fixed 1.)

 

The Rev L TIU is being powered by a 12V supply in the Aux, and a 21V Z750. DCS signal shows as a 10, and I hear the clicking sound during the test. 

 

I have not put the new battery in yet, but the engine test says the battery is okay, so I'm not sweating that for the time being. 

 

I've gone through the troubleshooting section in Barry's book, but am not finding anything else that's helping. Any ideas?

 

Fred

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Originally Posted by fpatton:

 

I have not put the new battery in yet, but the engine test says the battery is okay, so I'm not sweating that for the time being. 

 

That test only shows the battery charging circuit is good, it doesn't actually check the battery.  You've eliminated many things, I'd change that battery and eliminate one more.

If convenient to remove the shell, follow the two wires from each motor back to the PS2 board and make sure the 5-position connector didn't come loose.

 

You can manually turn each flywheel to make sure nothing is binding but it sounds like absolutely nothing is happening when commanded to go (no brief lurch or proverbial dimming of the lights or transformer groaning from a stuck mechanism).

Assuming that the battery checks out, you should test the motors for continuity after first unplugging the 5 pin plug mentioned above, from the circuit board.

Assuming its a two motored engine, it would be unlikely that both motors are burned out or open at the same time.

If they check out OK, then its likely the driver circuit on the board is shot.

In this case you will likely need to send it to someone who can repair it, or buy a new board.

 

Rod

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Since PS/2 runs fine with no battery, I'd just take it out for a test.  That will solve the issue of the battery for this test.

Fred,

 

Just make sure the 9 volt battery clip doesn't touch anything by removing it from the board or taping the cap. Otherwise, it may blow the charging system if it grounds out.

Originally Posted by Gregg:

Cut track power, (not shut down with remote) and  make sure the sounds continue on for at least 6 or 7 seconds, A dead battery is worse than none at all.

 

Yes proto-2 will run with out  a battery in command mode.

 

Yes, it does run for several seconds when I cut power. 

 

Originally Posted by stan2004:

If convenient to remove the shell, follow the two wires from each motor back to the PS2 board and make sure the 5-position connector didn't come loose.

 

You can manually turn each flywheel to make sure nothing is binding but it sounds like absolutely nothing is happening when commanded to go (no brief lurch or proverbial dimming of the lights or transformer groaning from a stuck mechanism).

This is actually what I'm thinking the most likely culprit is, after mulling it over. I'm hoping it got knocked loose in shipping. 

This still has the original 9V battery - I haven't put in the one from the scrapped PS1 yet. 
 
I'll pull the shell tonight and check it out. I was a bit gun-shy about doing that after the GP PS2 upgrade debacle. If this one turns out to be a blown board also, I'm going to give up and go back to conventional operation.
 
The whole reason I wanted DCS in the first place was slow-speed running. I have limited space, and would be mostly doing switching type runs. An ordinary person in this situation would just say "Go with HO or N", which I do have, but I've gotten hooked on these beautiful locomotives and their presence!

 Well since this is fixed we could discuss the BCR suggestion? I did buy a couple. I have a G gauge Challenger that was acting up. It must be close to ten years old if I guessed. I also bought an ext battery charger to try first. After a full nights charge, the engine has performed perfectly since. It would pass the battery test before but would always act up when it sat for a week or more and then got power. It would come up in conventional. Now it's fine for the past month or two.

 I say all this because all of my MTH engines still have their battery. I don't store any engines and some are getting old. So I'm always listening to battery issues with a keen ear. The BCR2s I bought are sitting here waiting for a task. Might be good for guys that don't run much?? Maybe a battery charger is all they need??

Post
The DCS Forum is sponsored by

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×