Recently Vernon Barry posted this picture on another topic related to the 5V boards. It apparently originated from an earlier topic, but I couldn't find said topic. Just wondering if anyone can help ID the other numbered components please? The sound chip is marked. #1 is a 220uF elec. cap but I don't know its purpose. #2 and #3 look like crystals that reportedly can drift when hot. #4 and #5 are IC's but I don't know their purpose. #6 looks like it might be the directional motor relay perhaps? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Rod, I hope someone can help identifying these. I would certainly be up for trying to repair one of mine if it causes trouble before deciding whether to spend more money to upgrade it.
@Vernon Barry posted:Here is a shot from a PS2 5V repair topic https://ogrforum.com/topic/pro...d-2-5v-board-repairs
Again, that thread is https://ogrforum.com/topic/pro...board-repairs?page=1
@Rod Stewart posted:Recently Vernon Barry posted this picture on another topic related to the 5V boards. It apparently originated from an earlier topic, but I couldn't find said topic. Just wondering if anyone can help ID the other numbered components please? The sound chip is marked. #1 is a 220uF elec. cap but I don't know its purpose. #2 and #3 look like crystals that reportedly can drift when hot. #4 and #5 are IC's but I don't know their purpose. #6 looks like it might be the directional motor relay perhaps? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Well, the cap is probably a DC power filter cap, that would be my guess. The crystal cans actually don't really drift if they're within their operating temperature range, that's probably hotter and colder than they'll ever be in your locomotive. The large chips are memory and processor, you're not really thinking of trying to replace those, are you? #6 is the relay without it's cover, it should be a black plastic square.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Well, the cap is probably a DC power filter cap, that would be my guess. The crystal cans actually don't really drift if they're within their operating temperature range, that's probably hotter and colder than they'll ever be in your locomotive. The large chips are memory and processor, you're not really thinking of trying to replace those, are you? #6 is the relay without it's cover, it should be a black plastic square.
That's kind of how I read it too John. No, no chance of changing the large chips, that's for sure. I was just curious what they might be. I figured memory and the main cpu. Thanks.
@Vernon Barry posted:Again, that thread is https://ogrforum.com/topic/pro...board-repairs?page=1
Great thanks Vernon for re=posting that link. I went through it, lots of good info there!
I have a 50 year old car that is rusted, broken, cheap and no value. But I am going to start buying and replacing all sorts of exotic parts on the motor. Would you do it? Probably not. Fets, caps, audio amp Ok. After that the board is toasted toast. Let it go. G
I do. I like kit bashing prewar Lionel 260es to act and sound like MTH remakes. Lots of room under the boiler and tender for electronics. Plus with the money MTH tinplate is selling for it’s cheaper, safer and fun to tinker. Currently working on converting the 2-4-2 260e into a 4-6-2. With sound and electronic e-unit.
stay tinkering my friend
@Rod Stewart posted:That's kind of how I read it too John. No, no chance of changing the large chips, that's for sure. I was just curious what they might be. I figured memory and the main cpu. Thanks.
I separated one of these boards sets once, it was a major pita. I didn't get it working anyway, that's the last time I spent significant time on a 5V board set. I'm willing to spend a little more time on the 3V board sets as they typically will live a lot longer than the 5V boards once you get them working. Like GGG says, I'll replace the random coupler or light FET/transistor, audio amp, etc. but after that I just toss the board into the dead boards box.
This is about two years worth, I cleaned this out a couple of years ago.