Real Trax switch voltage

If you are actually getting full voltage to the switches, the type of bulb will not make a difference in how the switch works.  I am surprised they take 18 volts, even my old PW Lionel switches all work properly at 14 volts.

I will try to answer your second paragraph as simply as possible, my computer locks up if I type too much. Volts are the push or pressure you start with. Batteries and other power sources are measured in volts supplied. Amps and current are the same thing. Current is the amount of gas flow and is measured in Amps. In any given circuit if you have more push (Volts) you will use more gas (Amps/current). You left out resistance (ohms) and power (watts). In a car engine you have horsepower, in an electrical circuit Watts is the equivalent. The more watts your transformer can supply the more powerful it is. The bigger your engine the more power (watts) it needs to run. Resistance is in everything. Resistance is what restricts the flow of fuel. A small gas line has more resistance than a large gas line. Understanding the relationship between these four is the crux of all electronics. One more thing and I will stop and let this smoke in. There is a rule that combines all these together called Ohm's Law. (Voltage = Current X Resistance and Power = Current X Voltage). Using simple math one can find out any of the four knowing any of the other two. I hope this helps but I must stop before my computer does.

Al

I will measure the voltage at each switch. From what I understand from both your answers (thanks, they helped) that they should all read close to the output voltage of the transformer. There will be some voltage drop due to the resistance of the wire lengths and the bulbs. There will also be an increase in amps when a switch is thrown and all the bulbs will dim a bit.

After checking I think my real problem is I have several sluggish switches due to mechanical and friction reasons. I am over powering the well operating switches because I need the power for the problem switches. 

My goal will be to use my 120 watt transformer to send 14 volts to the switches. I will still be changing the bulbs to LED for cosmetic reasons and also to reduce heat. I wii also use a capacitor because I dislike when all the switch lights dim briefly when a switch is thrown. 

If I cannot get the problem switches to throw easily at 14  volts, I wil power them seperately with a higher voltage. 

Again thank you and if I am not on the right track (pun intended), do not hesitate to set me straight. 

A man has to know his limitations, electricity in surely one of mine. 

Sounds like you're on the right track (pun intended).

I'd probably consider some work on the couple of switches that are taking all the voltage to operate, you could probably beat them into submission.  I'm not sure a capacitor without other circuitry will prevent the bulb dimming.  At a minimum you'd need a series resistor so the cap would be immediately discharged through the switch.  Also, note that you'd have to be running the switches on DC to use a cap as well.

Thanks Gunrunner. Very good points about the capacitors that I was unaware of. In your last sentence you refer to "arms". I am unfamiliar with that term. 

The "arms" statement was erroneously posted, it didn't belong here.   I took it out.

Thanks gunrunner. You had my brain working overtime on that one. I searched old posts and the net before I asked. Too funny. Thanks again for all you help. 

It was just to keep you on your toes.