Remote Swith Controller - wiring to re-use for accessories.

Bump...anyone done this before?? It's the switch I've attached a picture of that I would like to use for simple on/off accessory control. 

Here is a schematic of the controller. The switches are momentary, only closed when applying pressure to the lever. So to use this for a contact closure that stays closed, you would have to use a holding relay(s) circuit, for example.

On the other hand, if it is to be used to control something momentarily, that would be easy. Also lighting the LEDs is accomplished by supplying +5 or -5 vdc to the Yellow wire with the Black wire common.

I think you're trying to fit a round peg into a square hole. 

Pretty much. If one of the mom contact switches were normally closed, it would be pretty easy to do with a relay. The way it is, you would have to short out the supply momentarily

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I think you're trying to fit a round peg into a square hole. 

LMAO...

Actually you could  use 3 Arduino type relays. Two of them for the set reset and one for an isolated spdt to use for whatever. The issue is that the controller switches are normally open. So you could wire one as a latching relay while including the second relay nc contacts in the holding loop. And then the reset switch on the controller could release the first relay.

Actually, I kind of got caught up in trying to figure out how to do it with just one dpdt relay or two of the Arduino type spdt relays, but not so easy unless you short out the relay coil with the second switch. Ack.

...and if you used four relays, you could power switch the LEDs

Who was it that said "Nobody's ever done it that way, but it might be fun to try."

Like I said...

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I think you're trying to fit a round peg into a square hole. 

barhoram posted:

Just purchased a couple of new Fastrack Command Control switches. Since they will be controlled via CAB remote,  we removed the switch controller and wire from the switch.   Was wondering, Can I re-use the controller to do simple on/off control of an accessory?  Have a Lionel carousel with a switch on the back that I would like to use the remote control switch on instead so the kids can turn it on/off from the front of the track .Looks like the controller is wired with 4 wires (black,red, green, yellow).  I put a multimeter to each set, but couldn't figure out what was wired to what....nothing seemed to give continuity...Anyone know how to connect to control an accessory?  Thanks!

Not sure if you ever plan to use the iPad app or LCS system but I would leave the wires attached to the switch as the Switch Throw Monitor coming out requires a connection to one of the terminals and if you have your track mounted and ballasted, you'd have to tear them up.  If you are just a carpet or temporary layout then you are good.  Otherwise just buy a 1.00 switch on Amazon �� for your accessories.  

Good advice. I have all mine wired to the control area and it will be a simple task to add any LCS modules.

Like others have said, can it be done, sure.  Is it worth the trouble?  Only if you really like the look of the controller and definitely want to use it as opposed to any off the shelf toggle switch.  You could get away with one latching relay at a cost of about $5-6,  and perhaps a cap and diode to provide dc for the relay coils if needed.  Not the toughest thing, but not really worth the trouble in my opinion unless you really like the style of the switch controller.  

Thanks for all of the advice.   I agree...switch is way more complex than I thought. Overkill for simple accessory switching.  That said...is there a "go to" switch (cheap, simple) that someone would recommend for simple on/off control.  Someone mentioned a $1 switch on amazon.  What have others found works well?   Thanks.  

You know if you buy the LCS ASC2 module and the LCS DB9 cable/power supply you don't need any switch, you can control the on off through your CAB2 remote for up to 8 different accessories.  Just a thought.

I use these...

New-Calterm-Blk-Oval-Rocker-Red-LED-Switch-30-Amp-12V

They are spst and have an LED which gets it's voltage from the source that you switch. Legacy 18 vac is fine even though it says 12 vdc since the LED only conducts for a half cycle. However you should put a diode in series with the terminal labeled "earth" with the arrow directed down to the common side of the voltage. The diode will protect the LED from the reverse voltage of the 18 vac. You can connect all the "earth" pins together and use only one diode to common.

Looks like this...

Thanks. 

I looked at the ASC2, but not sure it will work as I am already using the DB9 COM port on the CAB base (connected to a PC).   Can the ASC2 connect to it a well with a piggy back DB9 plug?

JohnGaltLine posted:

Like others have said, can it be done, sure.  Is it worth the trouble?  Only if you really like the look of the controller and definitely want to use it as opposed to any off the shelf toggle switch.  You could get away with one latching relay at a cost of about $5-6,  and perhaps a cap and diode to provide dc for the relay coils if needed.  Not the toughest thing, but not really worth the trouble in my opinion unless you really like the style of the switch controller.  

Actually one latching relay won't work since it generally requires a normally open switch and a normally closed switch. The controller just has both switches normally open. Two relays will work...or one can work if you use the off switch to short out the supply to the relay coil. Not a comfortable design.

barhoram posted:

Thanks. 

I looked at the ASC2, but not sure it will work as I am already using the DB9 COM port on the CAB base (connected to a PC).   Can the ASC2 connect to it a well with a piggy back DB9 plug?

Look at the SER2.

barhoram posted:

Thanks. 

I looked at the ASC2, but not sure it will work as I am already using the DB9 COM port on the CAB base (connected to a PC).   Can the ASC2 connect to it a well with a piggy back DB9 plug?

What are you using the connection to the PC for?  You could also purchase the WiFi module and then you would not need a physical connection to your PC.  It would connect wirelessly to the base and you could use the LCS modules.   I have a whole series of videos on you tube on the LCS system if interested.  Plus then you could use your iPhone or iPad to control trains, etc. 

cjack posted:

JohnGaltLine posted:

Like others have said, can it be done, sure.  Is it worth the trouble?  Only if you really like the look of the controller and definitely want to use it as opposed to any off the shelf toggle switch.  You could get away with one latching relay at a cost of about $5-6,  and perhaps a cap and diode to provide dc for the relay coils if needed.  Not the toughest thing, but not really worth the trouble in my opinion unless you really like the style of the switch controller.  

Actually one latching relay won't work since it generally requires a normally open switch and a normally closed switch. The controller just has both switches normally open. Two relays will work...or one can work if you use the off switch to short out the supply to the relay coil. Not a comfortable design.

Unless I am mistaken a dual coil latching relay would work just fine.  If I were building something for this I'd end up using several normal relays, as I have them laying around, but for a scratch build and about $10 in parts something like this seems like it would do the job.  

Pardon my chicken scratch, but basically you have half wave rectification on the momentary, norm-open switch contacts, and a simple zener regulator to supply voltage to the relay coils.  as a note, I went for simplicity here choosing to use high wattage resistors and zeners, rather than a more complex solution that I would probably use for my own things.  the controller will also light red for off and green for on.  I may have those wires crossed.  

Again. I don't think it is worth the trouble, but it should work.  as for what type of toggle switches I like for accessories, I'm really fond of 50 cent light switches.