Repairing Rear Steps on Lionel F3

Epoxy???

Brian

I use a small pair of needle nose pliers and lightly apply pressure working around the swag.
After that I pry up on the step and slowly work the step off. You should be able to install a new step with no problem and re-swag the steps.

Bill

A contact cement like Walthers Goo its brown and real sticky, other brands can be found at most stores. The metals soft so a tap's not needed, just a small starter hole with a self tapping screw will work.

If you go with a glue based solution, you may wish to consider using JB Weld.
I have used this specific brand of Epoxy to attach the metal steps to diecast flatcar frames.
I file the metal stud until it is flush and flat. I also scratch up the back of the sheet metal step.
Then spring clamps are used (don't forget to protect the frame) to hold everything together.
The epoxy is applied sparingly.
A little epoxy should leak through the hole for the stud in the sheet metal replacement step.
The repair looks good, and holds up well.

I like Bill's method. As you pry it up, I bend the step at the hole and this widens the hole and it usually slips off the metal post. When installing the new one, drill it open some if necessary to get it to fit.

Your choice if you want to use glue along with reswagging the post. I also like the JB weld. G

This is similar to replacing the apron on a PW Lionel turbine, you can replace it once using this method, the next time you have to drill it out, and tap it for a flat headed screw. When it is running down the track you don't see it, however.

Thanks for these good ideas -- 

 

When the swag is saved in Bill's version and is reswagged -- is a press used or can a screw be used ( to widen the swag ) as I think Jim is suggesting above? or is the metal soft enough to use carefully some pliers ( locking ) ?  

 

( I don't have a press ( however would love to have a reason to go get one of these Harbor Freight ones I have been reading about here ) 

 

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Chuck 

You really do not need a press. Just rest the frame on a hard surface with some padding to protect the finish (I use feltover a wooden block), and use a 1/4 inch cold chisel to make an "X".

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Yes - makes sense 

 

There seems to be an X in the metal on the original -- so maybe they just used a chisel also ....

 

Thanks for the information --- mostly rivets are used -- however it seems

they didn't go that way for this attachment.

 

( Rats - still can't get a Press )

 

Chuck

 

 

 

 

quote:

There seems to be an X in the metal on the original -- so maybe they just used a chisel also ....

 

I am certain they used a press. The Lionel service station press outfit came with a "splaying clincher: which was an "X" shaped chisel-like tool. The factory would have had something more substantial.

I have a press outfit, but for a job like staking new ladders on an F3 frame, I am more likely to go the wooden block (felt cover) and chisel route.

FWIW, I used to use a punch to use whatever was left of the material from the original swag.  Just for insurance, I added a drop or 2 of ACC (Crazy Glue) so it would flow under the cross member of the new steps.  ACC flows and dries clear.  Underneath the chassis, nobody can see it.

AF