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Originally Posted by chipset:

I keep it simple, i replace all my bayonet type bulbs with bayonet warm white LEDs from Town and Country hobbies -$60 for a box of 50.

At 2 bulbs per car that is a $2.40 upgrade cost per car or 30 cars upgraded for $60.

No resistors, boards, or fuss etc etc.

DONE.

End of story

Hello Chipset.............

 

I LIKE your idea...............  I need to get a set of those for my 15 inch aluminum cars.

 

Tiffany

Originally Posted by christhetrainguy09:
Originally Posted by RailRide:

Here is my "clump", designed with the help of our electronics gurus:

 

package with annotoations

 

And here is a MTH Superliner sightseer lounge with the LED's powered off the above circuit. Both levels are lit, three segments on the lower and eight on the upper. I tapped the power rails for the lower level light bar to supply current to the circuit. That way I could reuse the stock light bars, and the LED's shine through yet remain recessed into the ceiling. 

34-sightseer lounge4

 

---PCJ

So off  of the LM317t the furthest pin is "input" and the closest pin is "output" with the 300ohm resistor, and the center pin is left alone? Just making sure before i create my clump and blow something up! Although that would be fun

That's correct. Nothing's connected to the center pin but the resistor bridging it to the closest one. I could have trimmed it off below the resistor, but since all the input/output wires are connected to a fixed point in the car (the light bar), I saw no risk of it shorting to anything.

 

---PCJ

Originally Posted by RailRide:

Say 'John,..

 

Are your kits available without the light strips and connectors? I already have the LED strips and can solder my own power wires to the board. I'll be looking for Henning's setup at York.

 

---PCJ 

 

 

Here's the bare modules on the Henning's site, we'll have those at York as well as the full lighting kits, and of course, the Super-Chuffer.  The Henning's booth is just about dead center in the Orange hall.

20110 LED Lighting Regulator, 2 Pcs.

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

ogr ledcclr

GRJ, while I suppose the above statement is true, I'd think it more important to indicate the module is MTH DCS compatible

 

Also, on the link you supplied, if one is not an avid (or rabid?) reader of the OGR Electrical Forum, how do you know where to turn to for applications information?  I'm thinking like the Applications Notes semiconductor manufacturers supply when introducing a new component.

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Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

You can just equip one car with rollers and some really large capacitors, that will provide flicker-free lighting for a lot of cars.  My 330uf caps provide excellent flicker resistance for one car, so something like a 2200uf cap would do it for a string of cars.

 

Of course, if you want to have tethers, you can also just run track power to all the cars and regulate the LED power individually in each car.

 

As far as all the time wiring up components, here's a shortcut.

 

LED Constant Current Lighting Regulator, 2 Pcs

 

 

Lighting Controller

John

 

is the choke needed for DCS, part of the above Hennings led power units. 

 

Bob D

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

All good points Stan, I'll change the labels and documentation to reflect that it IS DCS compatible.

 

I'll have to think about applications information, maybe I should point them to OGR.

 

Maybe you're fixing this as we speak (the link goes to the magento website with a pic of a young lady)...but as of yesterday the LEDCCLR description still said MTH DCC compatible.  I wonder if a quick read might lead one to think you still need to add your own choke for MTH DCS compatibility.

 

Also, in another thread you mentioned it comes with an instruction sheet.  Again, you may be altering this now but when I looked yesterday I couldn't find a link to this instruction sheet.  I think a potential buyer might want to see the instruction sheet ahead of time to see (how easy) what it takes to install it.

 

Just my 2 cents...

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

You betcha', that's a part of any of my stuff nowadays.  It's cheap to add, and it insures I won't be the guy to step on the DCS signal.

 

John

 

thanks for the update. One of the guys at the njhi Railers wanted to update his passanger cars and I wanted make sure the update with LEDs didn't degrade the DCS signal.  

 

Bob D

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Originally Posted by RailRide:

Say 'John,..

 

Are your kits available without the light strips and connectors? I already have the LED strips and can solder my own power wires to the board. I'll be looking for Henning's setup at York.

 

---PCJ 

 

 

Here's the bare modules on the Henning's site, we'll have those at York as well as the full lighting kits, and of course, the Super-Chuffer.  The Henning's booth is just about dead center in the Orange hall.

20110 LED Lighting Regulator, 2 Pcs.

how may of these do you use in one car?

 

Originally Posted by RailRide:

Here is my "clump", designed with the help of our electronics gurus:

 package with annotoations

 

GRJ, the "clump" is the official technical definition of above.

So to recap, what Chris K. did by changing the resistor from 300 to 100 ohm is to triple the "clump" current driving the LED strip from ~4 mA to ~12 mA.  The formula being: Current (Amps) = 1.25 Volts / Resistor (ohms).   From 1.25 / 300 to 1.25 / 100.

I didn't go back thru all the posts to see what was said but one could also install a variable resistor (aka trimpot) to allow adjustability.  The pre-built Hennings LED lighting regulator module shown earlier has such capability.

Last edited by stan2004
gunrunnerjohn posted:

What's the "clump"?

My thoughts too...I see now. 

I tried the bayonet and screw LED bulbs and they were some what lame. The light didn't come out the sides of them so the IC passenger cars I did first were not good at all...too dim...almost dark looking. I have a box of them I need to put on sale I guess.

I think the Henning's modules are the best of all I've seen and thought about. I escentially built that circuit onto the end of one of the 12 v LED strips, but when GRJ did these modules with the little trim pot on them...there wasn't much room for improvement. And believe me, the first thought an engineer has it to redesign something someone else did. I turned the pot down all the way on mine and am pleased with the results on the IC cars. They stay on for about a second or so after the power is removed so plenty of time for non flickering running.

Bob Severin posted:

I had to STOP reading.  I felt my head beginning to fracture from within.

Me, too!

Being a Maintenance of Way (MoW) type, incapable of understanding anything beyond "plug 'n' play" electronics, I just want to replace the incandescent lighting in Lionel 18" (UP & MILW) aluminum passenger cars with LEDs and thought I had hit upon a solution that I could understand: Order "replacement" car-type-specific lighting packages from Lionel!  Simple concept, yes.  Simple execution, no.

My experience with ordering replacement parts from Lionel has been great!  As long as I can fool their system showing the relevant parts diagram and ordering page, I can have the parts in about a week.  Therein lies the rub.  I can find diagrams for cars with incandescent lighting but, try as I may, I cannot find diagrams for the identical car types equipped with LEDs.  When I enter the SKU for any of the LED equipped cars in my "fleet" the most I will get is a listing for the manual at $10.00.

Do any of you know 1) if such parts are available and 2) how to fool the system into letting me order them?

gunrunnerjohn posted:

What's the "clump"?

"Clumping" is a feature of several brands of cat litter.  Not being a cat fancier, I do not have any direct experience.  However, if the ads are correct, the litter absorbs kitty effluent which then forms the "clumps" which can then be removed from the litter pan without wasting the "un-clumped" litter.

Rapid Transit Holmes posted:
Bob Severin posted:

I had to STOP reading.  I felt my head beginning to fracture from within.

Me, too!

Being a Maintenance of Way (MoW) type, incapable of understanding anything beyond "plug 'n' play" electronics, I just want to replace the incandescent lighting in Lionel 18" (UP & MILW) aluminum passenger cars with LEDs and thought I had hit upon a solution that I could understand: Order "replacement" car-type-specific lighting packages from Lionel!  Simple concept, yes.  Simple execution, no.

My experience with ordering replacement parts from Lionel has been great!  As long as I can fool their system showing the relevant parts diagram and ordering page, I can have the parts in about a week.  Therein lies the rub.  I can find diagrams for cars with incandescent lighting but, try as I may, I cannot find diagrams for the identical car types equipped with LEDs.  When I enter the SKU for any of the LED equipped cars in my "fleet" the most I will get is a listing for the manual at $10.00.

Do any of you know 1) if such parts are available and 2) how to fool the system into letting me order them?

You can actually order led bulbs that will fit your particular application.  Try these folks:

http://stores.towncountryhobbies.com   If you don't find what you need there, search the 'Bay and you may find what you need.  I have bought LED's from both sources and replaced many incandescents in passenger cars with them.

I highly recommend Gunrunnerjohn's constant voltage power supplies. They are easy to hook-up, take very little space and work extremely well. I just finished installing 25 of these in my passenger car fleets this past month.

Attached is a picture of my Flyonel Blue Comet heavyweight cars with these power supplies installed. The brightness is at the "as received" setting. I could go dimmer or brighter from here...IMG_1083

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D&H 65 posted: I highly recommend Gunrunnerjohn's constant voltage power supplies. They are easy to hook-up, take very little space and work extremely well.
 

GRJ is such an active Forum member and is such a fixture, I forget that he's also a vendor!  I visited his website and took all the kits that he had on the shelf (6) which will get me through most of the cars that I'd like to convert.  With two day priority mail, I should have them by Thursday - it takes an extra day to get out here...  I love simple answers, they're always the best!

Thank you for the advice and thanks to GRJ for producing a "plug 'n' play" device for folks like me!

Question for Gunrunnerjohn or anyone else that might know the answer to this question. About a year ago I installed LED lighting in five of my passenger cars using Gunrunnerjohn's wiring example from page 1 of this thread. Cars turned out great! I recently purchased a sixth passenger car and set out to wire it the same way. The only difference is that I used a 1N4003 diode instead of a 1N4001 diode and I also used a larger capacitor (1000uf 35v verses a 220uf 35v). Otherwise I used the same CL2N3-6 driver and LED strips in both setups. The problem is that the lighting in this latest car is much brighter than the previous 5 cars I did. Would the different diode or capacitor account for the brightness difference?

I haven't got that far yet but after seeing your schematics above, I know I wired it incorrectly. Thankfully I do have a few extra CL2s. I learn new things all the time here so thanks again for the help! 

BTW, the Super Chuffer is working great on my Legacy Lionmaster Challenger! Love the idle smoke and cab light!

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