I’m currently building a layout for the first time using the original American Flyer track and rolling stock that belonged to my dad when he was young. In addition to the track that created my dad's original oval, I recently purchased some AF Fastrack that provides R27 turns for some locomotives that I recently acquired that require a wider turning radius. My layout is about 12 feet long by 6 feet wide. After examining the track when I received the shipment from the model train supplier, I can’t determine the best way to attach track feeders as there are no metal clips, solder points or connections on the underside of the track (like is present with the Lionel O gauge Fastrack). I’ve also heard that it may be a challenge to solder feeder wires directly to Fastrack rails. My intention is to provide track feeders every 3-4 feet to ensure consistent control of my trains and to operate in TMCC and conventional modes (with a planned upgrade to Legacy Base 3 when it is released). I’m trying to determine how to supply power to the sections of track to ensure consistent power and command control signal? I’m struggling to find anyone who might be able to assist me with this question and there is nothing that I’ve found on an extended search of the internet. Any help that can be provided would be sincerely appreciated.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Curious about your question, I was unable to find pictures of the underside of S gauge FasTrack. Could you post a picture showing the underside of a few different types of curves and straight sections?
If the metal rails are fastened to the plastic roadbed using the bent tab method (like in O gauge), those tabs may be candidates for soldering feeder wires.
Another option would be to buy 6-49854 10" Terminal Track sections.
@CLTFlyer Thank you for the picture. Seeing no easy wire attachment points underneath, I would consider drilling small holes through the roadbed for feeder wires to pass through from underneath to the outside of the rails and soldering the wires to the outsides of the rails.
Steve, one more question for you. Would installing terminal tracks with the pre-attached wires at intervals throughout the loop and connecting to the bus wires below achieve the same effect without having to risk melting the plastic roadbed when attempting to solder to the rails?
Why not purchase the ready made terminal tracks. All wired and ready to go.
The S gauge FasTrack is a good system and with the solid NS rail is quiet. Unfortunately, unlike the SHS/MTH equivalent, it does not have the rail tangs underneath that accept 1/8" female spade lugs for power. Chuck K has built a nice S scale layout with FasTrack and hopefully he will see this thread and comment on how he made power connections. The separate 10" straight track with the track power feeds is not ideal for larger layouts with multiple blocks.
If I were using FasTrack I would cut some of the plastic webs under the rail to expose a longer section and then solder wires to the underside of the rail.
Thanks! I was afraid the multiple terminal track option may not work for me as I do have multiple blocks.
The keys to soldering wire to the rails without melting the plastic roadbed is to first pretin the ends of the wires and then use a high heat setting on the soldering iron and only apply heat long enough to sufficiently heat the point of attachment enough for it to melt the solder applied from the spool directly onto the rail and then while still applying heat, quickly add the wire to the molten puddle and remove the iron. A helping hand soldering tool can keep the wire in position while your own two hands hold the iron and solder, minimizing the time needed to keep heat on the rail and the risk of melting the plastic.
Thank you, sir.
solder your wire to the rail joiner
Here is one way to do it. The pictures show an insulated track with power feed to both sides.
Use 22 gauge quality wire Plan on ruining one section of track (or more) practicing.
Gunny
Attachments
Gunny, your soldering looks first rate! I never thought about using wire as small as 22 gauge. It is ok for a short drop. All my soldered track drops are 16 gauge but that is on flex track with the ties removed for the soldering process. No plastic track base to soften.
Good discussion.
Although it's a little late, I would recommend trying Gargraves track sometime: even if it's not quite as "realistic" as FasTrack, there's no plastic to worry about and they also offer a 27R curve 😊...and it's still being made in New York. 👍
Mark in Oregon
Tom,
Thanks!
Gunny
The S gauge FasTrack is a good system and with the solid NS rail is quiet.
Are you saying that when the rail is solid, the trains are quiet? That for O gauge Fastrack, it was never was the empty cavity under the roadbed, just the shape rail?
Michael,
Tom 's statement is correct not only is it quiet but is a very good conductor compared to tin plate rail. I use it and S-Helper and American models track. The downside to Fastrack is the cost & lack of variety of turnouts.
The O Gauge track is very noisy to my ear but much can be blamed on the third rail rollers and the hollow rail.
Just my opinion.
Gunny
I said nothing about the O gauge FasTrack because I am not a three rail O gauge operator. S gauge FasTrack is a different product and like the similar SHS/MTH track it is quiet. I have read comments posted by O gaugers that solid rail track is quieter. In S gauge all the track systems use solid rail with the exception of Gilbert and Gar Graves. I think gunny makes an interesting point.
Doesn’t this work just like O gauge FasTrack? I have a bunch of this S gauge FasTrack that I’m planning on setting up this spring. I even found a section with the side cutout for the wire so I don’t have to cut it out. Couldn’t I also just use the front / towards the end tabs? Did I miss something here?
Only the 649854 Terminal Track has that side cutout. It is specially made as the power connection track. None of the other S gauge track sections have any provisions for attaching power feeders.
Thank you all for your recommendations. Gunny, thanks for the photos as well. That is definitely some impressive soldering! Much appreciated.
Like Francine said, just use these...
Thanks, Chuck!