All very nice work. I am on the tail end of building my three track Bascule Bridge. It still needs a little detail work but I hope to show it with in a week or two. 
Your more then welcome. I hope it helps. I will be watching as I have to do the same thing.
Does anyone have a part number or recommended supplier for those micro-switches? Obviously it needs to handle 10 amps AC at a minimum.
Ok, here's an update on my lift bridge project.
1. I added the sub-roadbed and beveled the gap back at 45˚
2. Here's the finished deck with both beveled sub-roadbed pieces. The gap is about 1/16'.
3. Here's the deck and sub-roadbed opening.
4. Next I added some styrene shims and the cork roadbed, both beveled at the same 45˚ as the sub-roadbed below it.
5. Close up of the beveled gap with styrene & cork.
6. Here is the finished area with track added, beveled back at 45˚
7. Here's another angle showing the functional lift bridge with both the finished area and the still visible hinge area.
8. Finally a cut of cars, including a Lionel 86' HiCube rolling to check for clearance around the curve, smoothly rolling across the gap, and onto the bridge, which then is opened.
9. A birds eye view of the finished eastbound approach.
That's all for now.
(BTW, anyone have a part number or specs for those micro-switches that will allow me to cut the power when this thing is up?)
Attachments
WOW Rich, Great looking work! Looks like it will be flawless! Best of luck with the rest of the build.
Check out this lever roller switch or scan through this assortment. Not sure what type of contact will work best. Perhaps the snap switch with the flat blade.
Check the close-ups for mounting holes.
if you'll have relays anywhere on your layout and will have voltage for them, you can use a really small switch. Depends on how involved you want to get.
I think switching the center rail power directly is ok.
Hi Carl, I just read the specs on the switch from Home Depot, and it says its a push on and push off switch. so my question is even when you lift the bridge. Wouldn't you still have to push the button again to turn the power off?
Duh, was looking for something local. I'll delete that.
I'm glad I asked first.
Rich, this is a wonderful project; and, thanks for taking the time to photograph and video its progress and sharing them here.
Suggestion: When you add new information/photos, edit the thread's title to state "updated (date)"; makes it easy to know that you've added new material to the thread.
Carl
It looks like many of the switches you linked to will work. Most all of them are 10 amp (AC) 125v. SPDT On/Mom.
Thanks, I forgot all about DigiKey!
