Show Me Your Brass

I just have one, a 3rdRail Virginian 2-10-10-2.  I love it and hope to get other brass locomotives.

@John Hon posted:

I just have one, a 3rdRail Virginian 2-10-10-2.  I love it and hope to get other brass locomotives.

Beautiful!

Thanks Trainbros89.  I’m envious of your Virginian EL-2B, even though it’s not brass. It’s still awesome looking.

@John Hon posted:

Thanks Trainbros89.  I’m envious of your Virginian EL-2B, even though it’s not brass. It’s still awesome looking.

I think 3rd Rail still has a few for sale !

Hey Trainbros89, I know.

I’m working on the funding! 😃

Kohs GG1.  I severely reworked this so it can run on a layout. See recent set of articles in OST

I would love to have one of those Virginian 2-10-10-2's!

@John Sethian posted:

Kohs GG1.  I severely reworked so it can run on a layout. See recent set of articles in OST

What a gorgeous model. I have always admired Kohs.

Here are a pair of PAs coated with Alclad II - brass castings underneath.  I am inserting it as a link, because the resolution is better:

https://uc0f18b39365b11d74a02c...ruAiZKqDcp_m6f/file#

Trainbros89: You don't have to re-post photos every time you want to comment...

bob2: I couldn't open that link...

Mark in Oregon

@Strummer posted:

Trainbros89: You don't have to re-post photos every time you want to comment...

bob2: I couldn't open that link...

Mark in Oregon

I didn’t ask for your opinion on how I respond.

He phrased it as a suggestion.  When you re-post photos posted by someone else you are violating copyrights.  Ask the management what happens when a copright owner gets ornery.

Mark - the "dropbox" link worked yesterday, but not today.  I will post them here in a minute.  Problem with lower resolution is the Moray patterns on closely spaced lines.

Edit: this forum's resolution has improved recently - these are pretty good reproductions of my original high resolution photos.

Again, these are brass castings, coated first with black, then with Alclad II "stainless."  Comparing them with stainless cookware shows a pretty close match.

Plan is warbonnet.  Have the decals, but not in a hurry.

Sunset has offered the Challenger in greyhound colors, not exactly prototypical but nice piece.

Daniel

If you mean the paint scheme, I believe they did it that way for the Oregon passenger runs.

My ten-wheeler is progressing - may have to find your thread on that.  It is brass, though, so maybe appropriate here?

Oops!  It is way beyond this - I need a current photo.  It even has a new tender!

Thanks Bob, I have not founded a color picture of an original but it looks nice for me, still have to find a set of UP passenger cars...

Nice 460 you have done, here is mine after some repaint and restorations, still have to find a front lam and some decals, no idea what could be correct...  Nice home made model anyway.

Daniel

10 UP challengers were painted in two tone gray in 1946.  Not sure how long they kept that paint.  I have a Williams version of that locomotive in TTG.  It is just a hair under scale length but is a good runner. 

Something a little exotic for you in USA, another Sunset model in two rails of  a famous French loco, a 141 R Mikado in French.  Those engines where made in USA for the French railways just after the second world war to replace all the destroyed models, very powerful engine for passenger and freight service. A little more than a thousand where manufactured. The Sunset Model represent the engine in museum livery preserved in the national railway museum.

Daniel

Brass?   Yes, I confess I've owned and worked on some of it along the way.

Nearly all the brass models I've had or worked on have been modified in one way or another, usually with details, paint and lettering.

Here are some of them:

S. Islander

Here are a couple of rescue efforts. They arrived with many missing and broken parts. Just few examples of the damage shown.

Pete

@S. Islander posted:

Brass?   Yes, I confess I've owned and worked on some of it along the way.

Nearly all the brass models I've had or worked on have been modified in one way or another, usually with details, paint and lettering.

Here are some of them:

S. Islander

All very nice indeed. Question:

The B&O P7; is that what the Williams Pacific is supposed to be based on as well?

Mark in Oregon

Here's a little more color to help brighten up the start of your day - SMR General McCallum

Here’s some recent projects, hope to finish the 5011 Class soon:

Easily the most realistic 3-rail layout I have ever seen!

@Norm Charbonneau posted:

Here’s some recent projects, hope to finish the 5011 Class soon:

That 5011 class is looking great Norm. Can't wait to see it when it's finished.

Here is an SP "Deck" that has subsequently been finished and painted.

I bought this unpainted a while back. Have had mixed success with running 2 rail trucks on a 3 rail layout. Many don’t roll all that well. My practice of late has been modifying the Lionel milk car trucks and using them. I only use the side frames and make the center piece out of brass stock with a slightly offset mount to clear the underbody details. You pretty much keep the stock height of the car and the newer Lionel trucks really roll well. The car was imported by Car Works. I’m really into milk trains. Modeling the Rutland. They  basically were either Bordens or Sheffield Farms in the era I model with milk going to NY City. In order to get some variety in the consist I’ve gone the brass route.

The car still needs the flat itself weathered and will soon be in service.

@Norm Charbonneau that ATSF 2-10-4 looks incredible! I've been following your videos on YT and they have been very educational! Doug has also been helping me when it comes to brass and kadee coupler conversions. Hope all is well!

Thanks Will! I hope to finish the videos on it sometime next week. I kinda went down the rabbit hole on this one. It actually spawned some other projects like setting up and weathering another batch of Atlas H21s and some Lionel Berwind GLas to haul.

Well have four Wilaims PRR locos a PRR cabin car and a N&W caboose but no images.  In fact the Williams brass K4 is what brought me back to O-scale in the 80's.

:Edit 10/9 forgot the two Weavers.  A PRR Shrouded K4 #3768 and a Southern Shrouded PS-4 #1380 "Tennessean."

But the biggest brass engine was my last!

Ron

I shall stick to bare brass, so what I post is usually far from finished.  For instance, this one has been painted and weathered for a decade, and now has genuine nickel silver Gresley gear from Jay C installed - but thought you might like to see it as it proceeded from brass bar to model . . .

Those valve guides are from Dennis & Kathy.  Aren't they gorgeous castings?

I forgot to mention all my Williams brass locomotives.  I am up to a total of nine different ones ... I think?  I need to go and count them.

Weaver N5c which I painted, weathered, and illuminated. I also removed all the trainphone antenna equipment

We were a small Williams & Weaver dealer back in the early 1990's. I was very new to trains and had little knowledge or experience. Someone at a distributor guided me through my initial order suggesting 4 of the new GS4 Daylights, a couple of Southern PS4s, the N&W 'J' class, and another small steamer I believe. I was a little hesitant to put that much $$ out at the time but all of them sold quickly! We eventually had the Dreyfus Hudsons and the Empire State Hudsons, the UP FEF Northern, and one of my favorites was the Weaver brass scale GG1s - they were spectacular!

Speaking of "Williams"...

I'm messing around with trying to upgrade one my my #4949 Pacifics.

A "before" shot:

...and "after"...

I'm pleased with the result; looks (almost) real!  

Mark in Oregon

The change is a good one !

@Ron H posted:

The change is a good one !

Thanks.

With those wheels and a Mabuchi 555 motor (thanks "harmony yards" Pat ) it's coming along.

Mark in Oregon

.

Key

Isn't that a beauty (except for the pilot wheels, which could use a little Testor's flat black).

Here is another bare brass locomotive for you:

Speaking of pilot wheels, Mark - check those with an ohm meter if you get a track short.