Small, Black, On/Off Switches???

I don't know the specifications, but from the design, I'd limit it to an amp or two at most.  They're not suitable for switching track power if that's what you're thinking.

MTH uses a slightly larger DPDT switch for the 2-rail/3-rail feature on their switchable engines.

The Lionel and MTH switches appear to be exactly the same design, I use them interchangeably.

Thanks John.

This was really a BPRC question, but being most of the switches I have are either MTH or Lionel I thought I'd ask here.

I want to use it to switch my 9.6v batteries on/off.  The BPRC systems I'm using are 3amp systems and I've got an on/off module that takes care of those.

The BlueRail BlueHorse board is rated for 2 amps.  I currently have it temporarily plugged in my Weaver RS3 and the board is working fine, now it's time to add an on/off switch and the charging jack.  These small slide switches are less noticeable than anything I have in my parts box and I've found just the place to "hide" it on the RS3.

From what you said and what I've been able to find, one of the slide switches should be enough.

A couple of amps shouldn't be an issue, but that's all I'd risk with them.

Yeah, I think the rest of the system would shutdown if it gets above that, thanks!

Let me go to the Lionel parts kit and have a look for the rating.

Have many switches but none have ratings on them.  

Since you have a bag full, why not put one through its paces. Draw varying amounts of amps across one for a bit, till you have heat or even failure

 Testing can be fun

Adriatic posted:

Since you have a bag full, why not put one through its paces. Draw varying amounts of amps across one for a bit, till you have heat or even failure

 Testing can be fun

I believe Marty told me that random testing costs $100 an hour, how long should he test?

When parts like this go, R&R is the way it is done.  If Lionel uses this switch for many applications, I am sere they are happy with it.  

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Adriatic posted:

Since you have a bag full, why not put one through its paces. Draw varying amounts of amps across one for a bit, till you have heat or even failure

 Testing can be fun

I believe Marty told me that random testing costs $100 an hour, how long should he test?

  How long does it take to get to the Tootsie roll center of a lolly pop?

  Is this going to be a pre-test for a UL listing?

(I loved "lifetime tests", rooms full of "Rube Goldburgs" pounding  out tests on all kinds of pre-UL stuff. Wonderful collections of noises, counters, and meters )

 If your sure they are from Lionel 'nuff said', use the spec.

   But if not,  I'd say check often starting with about 3 seconds worth of testing, then doubling times til your up to one or two hours. With no heat build in body, or terminals, your likely fine "forever". Any warmth is reason to note you're maybe near your useful limits already. Push it longer for safety, then maybe harder to find the heat rise you need to see to worry, or just to see if it fails before it melts/ catches fire.

  VS. paying a top notch repairman to have fun for half a day (sorry Marty),  maybe just buy another bag full with known specs. Or hire a test monkey .

  I have mini's marked at .5a and 2a & 4a. So, unmarked and mfg. unknown?, I'd put one on track power, and push it to the limits... with??... I don't know ...say, a PW dual motor GG-1? Me and the guy in the yellow hat will be by soon Marty, I'll need working catenary and an hour or so at least . Double heading might even happen if I''m feeling really lucky  They didn't build those high watt transformers for no reason  

  For a draw, old headlight, or two, resistors, and math work too.

(..and low current fed to locos without care isn't really a great idea. They run inefficiently, and can get pretty hot that way )

I inserted the mini slide switch into the circuit and so far all is well.  It does what I want and doesn't seem to get hot.  Heck, even the battery charging circuit worked the first time!!!

This should really be under the RC sub-forum so if any admin wants to move it go ahead.

The Bluetooth board is working, but I'm having trouble with the dual beam LED headlight and rearlight on the Weaver N&W RS3.  Not sure yet if it's operator error or something else, but I've got 4 Evans Designs LEDs, 2 on the front and 2 on the rear.  When the engine is in Forward the headlight is brightly lit, but the rear light is dim, when I reverse the engine the rear light is brightly lit and the front is dim.

I spoke with Dave Rees from BlueRail and he indicted the bright/dim lighting was from feedback the HO guys gave him.  He said he's gotten other emails and may make a change so the dim LED is off when the other LED is on.  Now that I know it doesn't bother me so much.

Anyway, back to the original query...I've got 4+ hours on the mini-slide switch and so far so good.

Thanks guys!

Lionel would not use these switches I have unless they were OK with them.   Yes, you can buy the same thing anywhere.  The fact that I am doing warranty work on Lionel Trains it would not be wise  not to use the part recommended for the job.  I use what is recommended and do not care to screw around with a switch from some other company.  I have no doubt they can be had with a higher rating.  These things do not cost a lot of money.

Hello Marty..........

I just sent you a e-mail few minutes ago, a big offer to you.

Tiffany

I will spend time looking it over.  Thank you.