I have a MTH premire UP 9000. The tender rear steps broke off. Is there a very strong solder I can use to reattach the steps? I have a soldering station - what temp should I use? Thanks Bruce
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Bruce i would use JB weld once it sets up not going to come off and if you use to much wipe off access or let dry sand or file touch up with paint.
Is this a cast piece? If so I don't think solder will work. If it is a brass add on detail, you could solder. Lookup brass soldering for guidance.
JB Weld is a good choice as recommended too. G
Is this a cast piece? If so I don't think solder will work. If it is a brass add on detail, you could solder. Lookup brass soldering for guidance.
JB Weld is a good choice as recommended too. G
The JB Quick product sets/cures much faster than the JB Weld, and works just as well.
GGG this is a brass, I think, add on piece that bends easily. Bruce
If its brass you should be able to solder it but its not the temperature that is critical but the thermal mass of the tip. You can try it with your soldering station but if it doesn't melt the solder in a few seconds you might need an iron with a bigger tip.
Pete
I'd be very surprised if that is brass, virtually all of those are diecast.
If it's brass you may be able to solder it back but....... 2 other pieces may fall off. done that. Go with the epoxy.
I'd be very surprised if that is brass, virtually all of those are diecast.
Not true, you would be surprised how much brass detail is added on the cast premier engines. Just look inside at how the detail is attached. Usually a tab is bent over to hold in place. Your not doing that with die cast. Die cast details are attached with screws. G
The tender steps? I've seen it on small detail parts. In any case, you won't be soldering the steps to the diecast shell.
John How many UP engines do you work on? The UP stuff has separately attached ladders to the side of the tender. Your not soldering the brass steps to the tender shell, your soldering them back on to the ladder/step assembly, which is separately attached to the tender shell. I think even the IMP RK BB is done that way.
My very first post asked if it was diecast or brass. We know we can't solder diecast. There is a lot of add on brass to MTH Engines.
I have attached a few picture of Premier Challenger, RK Big Boy and last is PR GN Challenger. While the GN has die cast steps all the other detail ladders, and add on is brass. G
Attachments
For pity's sake - will somebody just LOOK at the blasted thing to see if it's zinc or brass?
Zinc is "silver"/gray; brass is "gold". File the paint off; look at the broken end - what color is it?
Modern die-cast locos are covered in brass detail. But some is zinc.
Just look at it; much more effective than the verbiage of "debate".
Silver/gray = no solder. Gold = solder your heart out.
We already know it is brass, so relax. Just try to convince John, that MTH use brass detail parts, including steps/ladders. He seems to think not. G