Source for replacement ZW Power Cord

I have used Davis Lyons for rebuilding a 1044 for me and I am very satisfied with his work and prices.  I would definitely use him again.

 

His website is www.lionletransformer.com and he has parts available along with repair service.

 

Kevin

Yep. Davis is the man.

Rob

I haven't seen any replacement cords with plugs that match the various styles that the Lionel Corporation used over the years.

I don't think I'd want to use them if they existed.

The cords I purchase have a flange around the part you grab, which act as a finger guard to prevent someone from accidentally touching the prongs. IMHO, they are safer, and safety is trump in my book.

I buy my cords from Ted, the fellow who sells screws in the Orange Hall at York.

 

 

I like C.W.'s idea, the flange is a nice touch.  If you want a Lionel clone, I'm not sure where you get those if the eBay ones aren't what you're looking for.

 

FWIW, the actual gauge of the wire in the cord is not a huge issue unless it's very small.  1500 watt hair dryers have a 16ga power cord!  #16 or even #18 would be sufficient for the ZW, it has a maximum input power of 275 watts, probably higher briefly if you overload it before the breaker trips.

#16 does not fit through the existing hole,at least on a KW that I just replaced. I use a #18 with a NP plug.Can get parts from Lowes or any electrical supply.

 

As far as the circuit breaker, I would leave it unless it does not function. For added protection add an external one like the one described here

 

www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogShowT...=486&categoryId=

 

Dale H

The Train Tender, Jeff Kane has the new replacement type. They DO NOT match the old but work well. the part number is B-292

Theoretically, a ZW rated at 275 watts shouldn't be drawing as much as 3 amps, which is wihtin the capacity of 18 gauge.  However, lamp cord may not have durable enough insulation.

Well, apparently neither was the original cord, or we wouldn't be replacing it.

 

Truthfully, plain old lamp cord has to meet UL standards, so I'm sure it's up to the task of insulating 115VAC without issue, right?

I second the www.ttender.com
They are 18 awg from  Electracord of PA.
I've put in many with no complaints no problems.
Modern insulation is far superior to the original.

The original cords on Lionel transformers had a heavy duty insulation.  I have a Type R that I've had for 70+ years, and the insulation has no cracks (probably should be replaced anyway).  I have several ZWs & a KW that I've had for 50 years, and the cords have no cracks.  While 2-conductor, they are not the flimsy lamp cord you can buy for rewiring lamps. 

 

Your sarcastic comment about the original cords is incorrect. The issue is not insulating 120-volts--it's being durable to withstand handling.

 

dpg:  I'm not so sure that a replacement internal breaker would be a sound solution.  It only breaks the U circuit, leaving you unprotected against shorts between any two of the 4 hot outlets, which can occur easily  Consider using external breakers on all 4 hot outputs, and feeding all ground return to through a single 10-amp breaker, tied to several of the U posts since the rivets holding the posts to the internal bus bar do lose good contact.

No offense intended RJR.  I realize the old cords have lasted a long time, I have several PW transformers that still have original cords as well.

 

However, I don't think it's necessary to spend a ton of money on the replacement.  FWIW, I bought some of the cords from The Train Tender as well, they were fine.  Who knows, they might need replacement in 20 years, but I'm guessing I won't own the transformers by then.

Out west it's very dry here. Lionel cords rarely survive in this environment. I think they used rubber insulation. Vinyl seems to work much better long term.

Pretty sure the old PW transformers did indeed have rubber, however all the recent ones seem to have the plastic insulation, aka lamp cord.

Breaker from WWW.ttender.com

ZW 250 square mounts to bottom

Z-22

circuit bkr old style black box

13.50

 

ZW 275 side mount

ZW-232R

side mount circuit breaker repro

8.00

 

KW  side mount

20-22R

KW circuit brkr/side mount repro

8.00

 

I have installed these modern breakers and they do work well although they look different.

Thanks for all of the replys!

 

I have contacted Jeff at The Train Tender and I am ordering everything I need from him. I have worked with him in the past on Lionel replacement parts just didn't know he handeled electrical components as well.

 

Thanks again!

 

Dave

gunnerjohn:  Things have a habit of remaining in one's possession longer than anticipated.  The difference in cost between a cord with a heavy duty insulation and the cheap lamp wire I have in mind is minimal.  My practice when giving advice in the forum, where many forumites are not very familiar with electricity, is to give the correct fix, rather than a make-do.  The Z4000 has a lamp-style cord, but it seems to be much better quality than what I'm thinking of.  A cord such as comes on a toaster oven of similar appliance, with two distinct conductors, is what I'd use.

Dale: This AllElectronics circuit breaker P/N appears to be obsolete. I'm checking other

sources.

 

Bob Di Stefano

Just look over at Mousers,they have a number of inexpensive 10 amp breakers.

 

www.mouser.com/Circuit-Protect...+breaker&FS=True

 

Here is one of many

 

www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/S...oDEVU1wQeSo%2fJK4%3d

quote:

The difference in cost between a cord with a heavy duty insulation and the cheap lamp wire I have in mind is minimal. 

 

Just curious: Are you using cords with molded on plugs, or seperate cords and plugs?

 

I prefer cords with molded plugs because there is one less point of failure.

 

I have been using appliance cords available at Ace hardware and other hardware type stores.

They are made to replace cords on irons and other equipment. They are a step up from lamp cord and work well for about $6-$8.

 

franktrain 

The cords from Ted are:

 

SPT-2

18 gauge

105 degrees centigrade

300 volt

CSA LL39965

UL VW-1

E67474

 

Assuming I found the correct information on the web, the cords are certified with CSA.

The cords also carry UL markings.

According to CSA, the insulation is PVC.

 

I'd guess that the cords that Jeff Kane carries are either identical, or very similar.
IMHO, these guys aren't going to risk selling cords that would be inappropriate for Lionel transformers. Think of the liability they would incur.

 

I absolutely am not telling others what to use.
I am comfortable staying with the cords I've been using.

 

 

  

The 16 gauge would not fit through the existing hole of my KW. I did not want to drill it out so I opted for the #18. Normally I would cut an extension cord like Sam does. They are #16, very rugged and I have used them a lot for coin op games and juke boxes.

 

Dale H

Good reason to use the smaller cord.  This stuff fit fine through the hole on a couple of 1033's, and even a KW, so I used it.  It's hard to find the black ones, I don't see them there nowadays.  I also bought some of the ones from The Train Tender, but these are half the price.

Well, I'm not sure I want to buy a dozen at a time, I don't use them that fast!

These days, neither do I.

I buy them individually, keeping a few on hand, and replacing them as they are used.

Occasionally, I'll use one of the cords for something else.

For example, I put one on an old photography lamp that needed a new cord.

I do just the opposite. Before trashing an old lamp or clock I cut lamp cord off and use them to repair transformers or whatever. I could understand wanting to use a repro cord if it was in fact an exact duplicate but if they are NLA, any cord will do.

 

Pete

I used up all my extra salvaged cords before I started visiting HomeDepot for my cords.

A lot of the work I've done has been for other people. Recycling cords won't do.

 

And down the road, when it comes time to sell those transformers, one that has been done with a neat, black cord is going to draw a much better price than one done with a recycled cord. IMHO, the difference would likely be far in excess of the cost of the cord.

 

Funny thing: My wife tends to buy a lot of lamps at the various antique shows we visit. Every lamp gets carefully cleaned (watch that patina) and rewired. Most of the time the cords are so dirty and twisted, that they are not worth saving. Here I don't use cords with molded plugs because I make up the cord length according to where my wife wants to use the lamp. I have a spool of SPT-2 wire for this purpose.

Gee, I buy neat black extension cords, I frankly don't see the difference between that and one you'd buy elsewhere.  If I have to worry about getting an extra $10 for my transformer, I'm in the wrong hobby, I've spent thousands!

For the old lamps,they sell reproduction cloth cords if that is the look you want.

 

Dale H

quote:

Gee, I buy neat black extension cords, I frankly don't see the difference between that and one you'd buy elsewhere.  If I have to worry about getting an extra $10 for my transformer, I'm in the wrong hobby, I've spent thousands!

 

Neither do I. I was refering to using recycled cords.  

 

 

 

quote:

For the old lamps,they sell reproduction cloth cords if that is the look you want.

 

Thank you for the tip. So far, with one exception, the lamps we've purchased came with SPT cords. I've seem some much older lamps with cloth cords that I've liked, but my wife didn not want them.

 

 

Most lamp and extension cords are polarized making it harder to phase transformers.

Just cut the prongs a bit,then you have an NP plug.

 

Dale H

I hit them with a file, the copper is soft and drops right off.

Isn't it amazing how a simple question has lead to such a long discussion?

 

Actually, there is a better solution to use of a polarized plug.  Presumably (hopefully?) all transformers have been phased and the plugs marked as to how they should go into the receptacle.  When you open the transformer case, see which connection in the transformer goes to which prong of the plug, note which hole in receptacle is wider (that would be the "neutral" &should be on the left if the round ground hole is downward), and wire the polarized cord accordingly.  You will have solved the problem of phasing transformers in the future.

Ok?  Obviously saving a buck is very important to some folks. Whatever makes you happy! Have fun! Play Trains!

With that buck, and some of it's relatives, we can buy more trains!

IMO, if the core of the transformer gets hot enough to melt insulation on any power cord, you have a SERIOUS problem with that transformer!