Started first layout, Lionel D-148 Postwar Dealer Display Replica

Got to work on the display this weekend since my spring break began Friday. The tan paint is a generic tan from Walmart and the green is Behr Dill Pickle from Home Depot. The 919 sawdust I bought is significantly darker than I thought it would be- hasn't faded since its been in bags 50+ years. Anyway, here's pics of the progress on one of the boards. as i said, the 919 is darker than I expected, but doesn't look as dark in person as in the photos

I'll be laying the track for the other half of the display this week, hopefully finishing the sawdust work, and beginning the mountain

Looking good!!

Looks great so far. How are you planning to build your mountain? Are you going to go for the traditional look or something more realistic?

Andrew,

Since the #919 has multiple colors, did any of the brown and yellow settle?

 

It's looking nice. You can see the texture of the #919 easily in the photos. That's the different and '50's effect to my eye.

 

Keep us posted.

Looks like a fun project. Looking forward to the updates.

       
       


I have 5 bags of the 919, and all looked different. I put them all in a mixing bowl and stirred to get an even color. You can see the Browns more in person- these are cell phone photos, so the quality isn't great.

This is looking really good Andrew.

Anxious to see the continued progress.

 

Very cool. I would love recreate a PW dealers layout one day.

 

Nice job.  I like the way you made the rounded corners on the roads and track beds just like the original!  Attached is a photo of my replica D-165 (1956) that I built.  It is replica of the "Dealer Catalog Version" as the actual D-165 produced was rather different, but I didn't know that at the time I built this layout!  The grass is Lionel 919, and like Andrew, I mixed up all of about 9 bags of the stuff in order to get a uniform color.  The grassy areas were screened onto the boards, and I had to add an extender to the latex paint I used so that the paint would remain tacky long enough to sprinkle on the grass.  The mountain is made from special felt that was custom made for me that is similar to the wool felt in the Lionel 920 display sets.  It was soaked in hot "fish glue" and draped over a wire screen and wood frame.  It was then painted with casein theater paints mixed with the fish glue just like the original dealer displays.  Even the wiring is cloth covered wire where it is exposed.  I always liked these display layouts and remember very well seeing them in stores when I was a youngster in NYC.  Keep up the good work - you've made a great start!  

Be sure to update your progress..what a great project well executed!

Frank G., I really like the look of your layout. Any further detail on the felt for the mountain? Also, how you worked with the fish glue? I'm struggling to get my layout as "authentic" looking as possible, and the original materials are appealing. I bought a 920 set on eBay, but obviously don't want to actually use it.

The felt was a custom product produced by a now defunct manufacturer.  There is nothing available today that will match the exact felt used by Lionel, which was a wool based felt product.  Kunin Felt used to make a acrylic felt in their "Rainbow Classic" line called "Greystone" that was pretty close, but it was lighter in both color and weight than the Lionel stuff.  Acrylic felt does not work as well, since it doesn't shrink when it dries like the wool felt.  The shrinking helps with getting all of the "nooks and crannies" that was the signature of these felt mountains.  Sutherland Felt makes ASTM grade gray pressed wool felt, but the thinnest thickness is something like 1/16", which is way too thick.  I have no further suggestions for you on locating the felt.  You would need at least two 920 sets worth of felt to make the mountain on a D-148, which is the same size and shape as the mountain on my D-165 layout, but mine was made in one piece.  After building a frame of different lengths of 1"X 1" vertical supports and cutting out the tunnel portals from either 1/2" pine or plywood (Lionel didn't use the molded 920 portals until 1958), wire screen was crumpled and then draped over the supports (this is consistent with the way Lionel did it up to and including 1954.  After that, they used brown kraft paper instead).  A scrap piece of cloth (like an old bed sheet or similar) was then draped over the screen and tacked in place, cut as necessary around the portals and the edges.  This was used as a pattern to cut out the felt.  Once the felt was cut out, it was dipped into a solution of "fish glue", which can be purchased at organ supply companies like "Organ Supply Industries", "Arndt Industries" etc.  It is mixed with hot water and used heated.  It is very sticky and has a "unique" smell.  But it is important to use this type of glue.  The reason is that the glue (which today is used to fasten leather bellows material to wood backings in organ mechanisms) crystallizes when it dries, so the resulting shell will become rock hard.  Another option if you do not have a large hot-pot is to use stabilized animal hide glue, which can be used cold.  It too has a rather unpleasant smell, and the resulting wool mountain will smell like a old wet dog!  Once the glue soaked felt is draped over the screen and tugged and pinched in place, use crumpled up newspaper here and there between the screen and the felt to build up humps and bumps as you like.  The felt will dry overnight to a surprisingly rock hard surface that is quite durable.  But keep this in mind - the glue is hygroscopic, meaning it will always take moisture from the air or elsewhere and may never fully "set".  This isn't a bad thing, as it will allow you to repair the mountain years from now in case it sags by re-wetting it with a spray bottle (this is one method used by restorers of original dealer displays).  If you live in a very humid climate, this may not be the best way to build a mountain if you don't have air conditioning available!  The paints I used were the same as what Lionel used - casein theater paint mixed with the hot fish glue. The paints can be purchased from Rosebrand as scenic paints.  The reason to mix it with the fish glue is that these paints don't have a binder and their colors will fade rather quickly if not mixed with the glue.  The usual burnt and raw umber as well as sienna brown or red is used.  The "rocky outcroppings" are picked out in the same tan paint that is used for the roads and track beds.  The best suggestion I have is to study a real Lionel display layout so that you can see exactly how the mountains were painted.  No art skills are required, after all, the real ones were painted assembly line fashion by college students working in the summer.  After everything dries, the same green paint is used for grassy areas, and the 919 grass sprinkled on.  If you are using latex paint, be sure to use an extender to have enough "open" time for the grass to stick.  The grass patches should not be put on willy-nilly, but should be placed on the flatter areas, where grass would grow in real life.  The usual lichen is used for trees and shrubs, and it is important to select good specimens that are plump and have good shape.  Out of a full bag of lichen from Woodland Scenics, I usually get only about 20% good clumps.  Mix the colors of dark, medium, light and spring green into nice clumps and attach them in a way that is more "vertical" than "horizontal".  That is is the way to get the original "Lionel" look.  Hope the forgoing helps.  Keep up the good work!

I've been making some more progress. 

 

The first pic shows when we were drawing out what to mark as tan and what to paint green on the passenger loop. The rest show various stages of paint and "grass" application, as well as a few with accessories set in place for my own amusement- to see the "work in progress" I guess.

Placed some more of my accessories down, also got more grass down, and started laying some track. Done for a few weeks as my spring break is over. Then the mountain happens.

Andrew,  Your layout looks really neat, especially the grass.

Few tricks I've discovered so far: press the grass into the wet paint, let sit over an hour, then vacuum. I use a shop vac, but I've taped a funnel into the vacuum hose, and in the funnel I've taped a paint strainer. It collects the loose grass but doesn't suck it past. Allows it to be collected and put back into the pan I have it in. I've got washers taped around the edges, too, so it doesn't stick to the board, but instead gets really close with out suctioning down.

Radii are a roll of tape, a washer, a paint can, and a straightened hose clamp. Not the most extravagant tools to make a decent looking product.

Gap between the edge of the ties and the grass is the thickness of a paint paddle.

You've made a lot of progress. It's all '50's looking. Mom's rolling pin or a wallpapering edge roller would help pressing the grass into the paint. Maybe some plastic food wrap on a paint roller would work.

 

I like your grass recovery method.

 

Finish out the semester strongly! Don't coast. Good luck and stay in touch.

here's the 920 kit that Frank G was talking about.

Andrew - what are you going to do about the upper level supports?  Lionel used turned wooden columns for the upper level, which was made from plywood and thin trim stock.

The turned columns look suspiciously like large turned wooden commercial thread spools.  Are you planning to turn your own columns?  It is interesting to note that although the D-148 was a 1955 display layout, and the 110 graduated trestle set was a 1955 release, both the D-147 and D-148 did not use them.  This can be explained by the fact that the display layouts were always designed in the late fall of the previous year and the prototypes made prior to Toy Fair, which happened early in February of the catalog year.  So although the 110 trestles may have been available in 1955, they were not available in fall of 1954 when this layout was designed by Bill Bonanno and his team of Department 15.  There were some changes from the catalog illustration to the production version of the 1955, most notably the two ended siding on the "front" board instead of the stub siding, and the "horseshoe" tunnel portals instead of the "arch" style, which were used in 1952-1954.  Attached are some photos of an original restored D-148.  These may be of some help to you in building the mountain.  Please note that the "elevated" portals are extra tall and extend all the way to the plywood base.  The upper level is the same 3/8" plywood used for the base that is cut out to follow the shape of the upper level track and is supported by 1" X 3" wood risers.  The entire inside of the tunnel is tan, and there would be screen printings of the green areas around the base of the tunnel portals to locate the wooden "feet" of the portal, which are attached at a 90 degree angle to the wooden tunnel portal.  The presence of grass on these "registers" prove that the mountains were added after the entire flat base was completed.  Don't forget to add an additional small portal at the back of the mountain.  Lionel always did this in order to provide access to the inside of the mountain for derailments, cleaning track etc.

Frank G.

Was the felt thinner than 1/8"? I found a supplier for that size. It's pressed felt though. It may be too dense.

We tried rolling at first- it seems the grass picks up the paint but doesn't stay down with that method. Pressure straight down into the paint works best rather than pressure moving across the top.

Moonman, 

The felt was about 1/32" or 3/64" thick.  I couldn't tell you if it was pressed or woven, but it was wool.

Frank G.

Frank G.:

 

I've been looking at the thread spools like you mentioned, but can't find any that look to be a big enough diameter, though I could be overestimating their size based on pictures. The thought was to use a wooden dowel and cut the taper off a spool, then connect those and stain them. I don't have the woodworking tools to make my own, unfortunately. 

What I found was definitely too thick. Joann fabric only has a 30% wool\70% poly fabric. May not hold the glue well.

Moonman,

You might try "Prarie Point Junction" in Cozad, Nebraska.  They have wool felt by the roll that might work.  I'd try a sample first though to be sure.  The color that is closest is "Cobblestone" WCF2615, but they say it is limited quantities because it is discontinued.  Alternately, you could us "Driftwood" WCF2619.  I have no experience with this felt, so I can't recommend it without reserve, but it looks to be suitable.

Frank G.

Andrew B.

The vertical risers are about 1" in diameter.  Attached is a photo of another original D-148 that shows the risers in profile.  Note that the entire upper level, risers, track bed and guard rails are painted in the same tan that is used for the base roads and track beds.  In the other D-148, the upper level was restored and was not yet painted.

Frank G.,

Thanks for the fabric lead. I have interest in the tunnels\mountains because I have a few to make for a small layout.

I am going to try red rosin paper with Elmer's. I have ordered a gallon of theatrical white glue that dries clear with a paintable surface. Closer to the industrial white glue. and has more flexibility. Then I will use one of those on the thin wool.

I can't get into the fish glue, so I am trying to get the look with modern material.

 

I also think I can get the same look with acrylic paint. We shall see.

 

Andrew B. and Frank G.,

If you allow yourself to stray from a true reproduction, TWTrainWorx and BridgeBoss have nice elevated sections and railings. I think they would look appropriate on this layout with the self-made pylons.

I am familiar with red rosin paper and the scenery techniques of John Parker.  Let me know how this works out, as I have my doubts.  One of the attributes of the "fish glue" (or stabilized or traditional hide glue) is that when it dries, it provides an absolutely RIGID shell.  White glue (Elmer's) has some flexibility when it dries and the result is not the same.  I'm curious how it works out for you.  I agree that you can get the same look with acrylic paint.  The only reason I went with the casein paint mixed with the fish glue was for authenticity in construction methods, which was something I was trying to achieve.

I have my doubts, too. I don't think the rosin paper will absorb the glue. I don't think the flexibility of white glue is enough to not make a hard shell, just keep it from cracking.

 

Anyway, I need a roll of the paper for some layout templates, so I thought I'd experiment.

 

Thanks for your input. Have you studied the Dealer Display Layouts for a while? Your detailed knowledge is not typical. Thanks for sharing it.

Bringing this back up, I'm finding a ton of suppliers for 1/16 95% wool felt, and a few that list 3/64, but haven't found any available at that thickness yet. Looking at the materials, they're listed as SAE F-51 or F-55 from distributors. I'm hoping to get a bit in 3/64, but we'll see.

Andrew,

Just had some to look at felt specs. I think a different spec would work better. The soft F-11/13 is made for impregnated uses, perhaps like an oil wipe. That may make it better absorb the fish glue. It's also available in 3/16".

 

http://www.thefeltcompany.com/...-16-thick-x-72-wide/

 

Why did you determine that you wanted the thicker material? Frank G. observed the original material, which was thinner.

I think you're confused. What I found is either 1/16 or 3/64, considerably thinner than 3/16. 3/16 is, if carried out, is 12/64. 

Duh, multi-tasking and not paying attention.

Hahaha, it's all good. I was really confused, though. Thought I might have forgotten how fractions work since school. 

While the D-148 didn't have a control panel, I'm including one on this layout rather than mount the controls directly to the board. It's plywood and 1x4, with the screwheads filled and the corners radius es a bit. Painted "Harrisburg green" which is supposed to be a match to the paint on the later postwar layouts.

Cut some wood and plastic today. Made the bridge piers and tunnel portals out of 1/2" plywood and sanded the surfaces to clean it up some, and also got some industrial thread spools that I cut down to match the ones seen in the D-148. These are plastic unlike the originals, but strong, and I think once sanded and painted they'll be ok. Below are also some original D-148 photos that show those items once installed

I also got a Lionel 920 Scenic kit for the wool to build the mountain. Putting it between some calipers it runs between .027" and .035" or roughly 1/32" which is much thinner than what is available on the market today, with the thinnest I have found at 3/64"