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I have been scouting O-scale sidewalk offerings in preparation of a major module build for my PRR Panhandle Division.  After collecting this information, I thought it might be useful to the readers of this forum.  I believe it to be complete, but please feel free to add more vendors to the list.

 

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SupplierPart #Description
   
Korber678.5" x 2" straight sections (2) +  2" x 2" corner sections (2)
AmeritowneOGR-345.75" x 2" straight sections (2)
Bar Mills0684Sidewalks in a Snap
Bar Mills0499Sidewalk Elevator Section Kit and Crates 
Crow RiverO-1048" x 1.5" straight sidewalk sections (2)
Crow RiverO-1051.5" sq Outside Corner (Compa. w/ O-104) (2)
Crow RiverO-1063"x 1.5" Driveway   Section (comp. w/ O-104)
Crow RiverO-107Sidewalk Elevator Section Kit   (Comp. w/ O-104); includes Metal Elevator Casting and Crates 
Downtown DecoDWN-457" x 2.25" straight   sections (3) +  2.25" sq corner   sections (3); 0.25" thick

 

Hope this is of some value.

 

George

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Originally Posted by Jdevleerjr:

I plan on using cheap yardsticks. I havent decided if I will put a skim coat of spackel on them or not though.  Very cheap and the right size.

Good idea!

 

This is what Dennis Brennan used in his book Realistic Modeling for Toy Trains (Kalmbach108390), page 45, figure/photo 5-11 and discussion.  Excellent results.....(some of us can only hope to be as skilled)!

 

 

KD

 

 

I've used basswood in the past but now use yardsticks.  I sand one side smooth, sand one edge to round the curb, then spackle it lightly and sand it with #220, then prime (important) and lightly sand (#320 or #400) again, then paint it concrete color, usually rolling it on with a small disposable  foam roller and score them with seams when dry, etc.  I usually make several yard(stick)s at once, then cut to fit as needed.  They look better than any "store bought" sidewalks I've seen.

 

Sidewalks

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  • Sidewalks
Originally Posted by Lee Willis:

I've used basswood in the past but now use yardsticks.  I sand one side smooth, sand one edge to round the curb, then spackle it lightly and sand it with #220, then prime (important) and lightly sand (#320 or #400) again, then paint it concrete color, usually rolling it on with a small disposable  foam roller and score them with seams when dry, etc.  I usually make several yard(stick)s at once, then cut to fit as needed.  They look better than any "store bought" sidewalks I've seen.

 

Sidewalks

Lee, where did you get the light poles?  Are they functional?

Thanks,

 

George

One of the alternatives to yardsticks (which have those imprinted black markings) is wooden strips I've used for foamcore building internal support.  You can get these at Lowe's or Home Depot.  Typical measurements are 1.5" x 36" x 0.25" and they are either aspen or poplar. 

 

When you place these next to your 1/8" masonite street, the 0.25" thickness gives you a 1/8" or 6 scale inch curb.  These are more expensive than using yardsticks, but much less expensive than the commercial products.

 

George

Originally Posted by G3750:

One of the alternatives to yardsticks (which have those imprinted black markings) is wooden strips I've used for foamcore building internal support.  You can get these at Lowe's or Home Depot.  Typical measurements are 1.5" x 36" x 0.25" and they are either aspen or poplar. 

 

When you place these next to your 1/8" masonite street, the 0.25" thickness gives you a 1/8" or 6 scale inch curb.  These are more expensive than using yardsticks, but much less expensive than the commercial products.

 

George

All:

 

In preparation for building the streets for the City of Weirton module and the overpass at Crawford's Crossing, I picked up 12 poplar hobby strips (0.25" x 1.5" x 48") at Home Depot.  Each was $1.83 plus tax. 

 

These will will work great for the main streets at a scale width of 6'.  For the overpass, I've got to trim them to a 1" width, but I think they're going to work out fine.  Painting and scribing of pavement joints comes next.

 

George

 

Last edited by G3750
Originally Posted by G3750:

It's great seeing all these "roll-your-own" sidewalk solutions.  I have been doing a few rough calculations and to buy sidewalks for all my urban areas will cost !!!!  I am going to have to be fairly selective in my "paving" decisions.

 

Thanks guys!

 

George

You may have to get your little people to vote on a little bond issue for a little more money for your little sidewalks.

 

Sorry.  Eggnog and chocolate withdrawal make me go a little weird.....

Last edited by Forty Rod
Originally Posted by Forty Rod:
Originally Posted by G3750:

It's great seeing all these "roll-your-own" sidewalk solutions.  I have been doing a few rough calculations and to buy sidewalks for all my urban areas will cost !!!!  I am going to have to be fairly selective in my "paving" decisions.

 

Thanks guys!

 

George

You may have to get your little people to vote on a little bond issue for a little more money for your little sidewalks.

 

Sorry.  Eggnog and chocolate withdrawal make me go a little weird.....

Maybe, but these people are poor and can't afford more taxes!

And if I bought my sidewalks commercially, I'd be spending around $250 (I have over 16 feet of city street).  This way, I'm going to be in around $40!

 

What proof was the eggnog?

 

George

When it comes to sidewalks, I think in terms of blocks or areas.
Starting with masonite and depending on time and level of detail, I use a table saw, Xacto saw(including vertical curb cuts) or Masonite clad in Evergreen sheets.

     

left side clad in evergreen sheet. Right side will get same treatment.
     

24" x 24" piece of Masonite with the majority of the detail done W/ a table saw.  (About an hour to complete- building on right still needs to be set down)
     
Last edited by aubv
Originally Posted by EmpireBuilderDave:

Any good methods for scribing the lines accurately that you could share?  I am planning on using Smoothit over masonite and then scribing the lines.  Is this done while wet, or after it dries?

I don't know yet.  I'm about to paint the sidewalks and then try a dental pick and metal yardstick (after they dry).

 

I'll let you know how that works.

 

George

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