Switching to fastrack

I made the decision to go to all fastrack about 2 months ago.  I'm no longer all that keen on it having done so.  I will admit I don't have any switches now since the track is just temporary and it is just a small oval to test out stuff.  There are issues posted in this forum about fastrack switches, so look for them.  Have you tried the tubular track from Menard's?  It has issues too though.

I wish you luck.

I’m not disputing texgeekboy or anyone’s problems with Fastrack.  There has been some talk of switches wired incorrectly from the factory.  

My experience with Fastrack has been fabulous.  I have had a Fastrack layout with 11 switches for about four years.  In that time I’ve had one issue.  That turned out to be a loose wire that simply needed to be tightened.  That’s it.  Other than that, my switches have been absolutely bulletproof.  Never a problem.  The trains just blast through and never derail.

That’s not to say that I love Fastrack.  I’m not crazy about the look or the noise but that’s me.  I prefer the look of a scale-type hirail layout.  However, I would not hesitate to recommend Fastrack to anyone who wants reliable running.

I got back into the hobby this past year with a starter set and expanded with Fastrack because that’s what was in the set.  I can’t speak to how it compares to other types of track but I can share some of the pros and cons I’ve experienced. Check out my build thread for more detail.

The pros… Your trains will track reliably with minimal if any issues at all over straight, curves, crossings and switches. I’ve never had any derailment issues regardless of the speed, the weight of the individual cars, or the length of the trains.  While the ballast is not hyper realistic, I like that it is built-in.  For me it’s good enough.  Down the road should I want to do more realistic scenery, I’ve seen layouts that incorporate it very well by adding ballast on top or building up scenery around it.  And, Lionel makes lots of cool track accessories like the sensor track and the LCS which integrate and work very well, so there’s always room to grow even if the space in your layout cannot.   I believe most of the switches come with command control built-in now which is a neat feature that allows you to control the switches from a handheld remote or an iPad.

The cons… The larger your layout gets, the more fussy the electrical connections get. Longer stretches of track will flex and power continuity can be an issue. When I went from a couple of simple loops to a 12‘ x 8‘ table with multiple switches, adding power feeders along the way was a must to prevent stalling and keeping constant voltage to the switches. Carefully bending the center pins will help as well as carefully screwing down longer sections.  There are some issues with the switches. Some are wired from the factory incorrectly to accept direct power feeds and need you to rearrange some of the internals. But if you are going to use track power and follow the above suggestions, the toggle switches or the remote command control have worked flawlessly. Using track power was frustrating on the larger layout until I added feeders making sure there was a feeder very close to all “legs” of the switches.

Another possible con is that people say Fastrack can be noisy. I do have sound deadener on my table which I’m sure helps to reduce some of the noise but I don’t have anything else to compare it to. If running at prototypical speeds, it’s not bad. These are big trains and the sound of metal wheels on metal track is definitely noticeable.  To me it does not sound any worse than my previous tubular track layout on plywood.

Be sure to look online for used track.   If you’re patient and quick to hop on a smart deal, you can save a ton of money. I’ve purchased most of my track from eBay for about $2 per section on average which is more than 50% off. When determining how much to bid, remember to include shipping in your final estimate. Some purchases I let go what the cost ends up being retail cost after shipping was included.   That negates the whole premise of finding a good deal. You might as well just buy new at that point.   I will admit though that I have purchased all of my switches new.  If you shop some of the online websites, you can find switches for under $90 which is a pretty good savings from there $120 retail price.

hope this helps. Feel free to ask any questions you might have.

@DunningStation posted:

Thinking about going from 027 to Lionel Fastrack as the the red light on my GW180 transformer is blinking red with more regularity as my longer trains roll across my 042 switches. Think going to fastrack will minimize this problem. Thinking about using 048 curves on my main lines and 036  for my sidings but have read they might not connect well. 48 being the only radius that the number of pieces of track is not divisible by 8. Right now all my engines and rolling stock are rated for 031 curves and the longest of those is 16" long so don;t think I need to go bigger than 048. Your thoughts.

I have been using fastrack for about 5 years now. The best part is the fact that the switches are integrated into TMCC. As for voltage drops I make connections about every 4 feet, easy with the tabs. The switches have been great with some minor adjustments on one that a large engine would split. Down side cost.

Great review VJand P !

For me, though, the negatives you outline for Fast Track far outweigh the positives.

I just got into O Gauge 18 month ago, using used Lionel tubular track.  I've never had any serious track problems with it, including the sections I have custom cut.   

I have had two or three places on my layout where a car wanted to consistently derail, but  watching the car very carefully as I moved it by hand over the track for about 5 minutes  always showed a slight high or low spot, which was easily remedied by putting a thin shim under one of the metal cross ties.      Two of these sections were right after an 022 switch turnout, and I found that the height of the track on the switches is just a hair higher than the height of the regular track.  But again, easily remedied by a shim.

I also found that the electrical work using the conventional tube track was very easy, including the power hook-ups, creating power blocks, and soldering feeder lines to the rails.

The one con is that you have to lay/glue down the foam track bed.  But, once you get the hand of it, it goes pretty fast.  Or, you can just decide to go without it, as I see that lots of the layouts on this board often do.

And, you have to buy a track pin puller, or develop a technique for pulling pins using a flat table for the track, with a set of linesman plyers levering vertically off the edge of the table to pull the pins.  You also have to buy a good, not cheap, pin crimper.    With these in hand, though, connecting the tube track is fairly easy.

Just some things to consider.

Mannyrock

In summary, I was expecting a better quality product.  The circuitry on the operating section (decoupler and unloader) was compromised unexpectedly, and the wires from the power section are pretty flimsy IMHO.  I have no experience with fastrack switches personally, only what I read here.  My major complaint is the power drop outs and the tracks not staying together, which aren't necessarily the same issue.  The sections of track can be secured with 1/2 inch binders, 100 of them go for less than $7 including next day delivery from a major online retailer.  That is my project for today and tomorrow.  The power drop outs can be addressed via methods stated in numerous threads on this forum.

Will I continue to buy fastrack?  Yes.

Will I grumble about it?  Yes.

About four years ago I unboxed my trains and couldn't find my boxes of track. As a result I picked up some fastrack and after a bit of a learning curve acquired some more.  Overall I'm pleased with the operation and have had few problems which I didn't cause myself.  I especially like the way remote switches automatically throw.  Note that using a traditional transformer may not provide enough power at lower speeds. Since switching to constant 18vac the switches behave well.

I've had no issues with power drop, might be because I'm careful when connecting pieces to not twist them which would bend the tabs. Same with separation, I use a filed down flat blade screwdriver as a gentle pry bar.  I had one switch that wouldn't fully throw, there was a piece of debris inside the mechanism.  The same switch caused derails until I added a straight section of track to the lead in.

Basically fastrack requires the same care as other brands. 

Fastrack has been reliable on my 10'x16' permanent layout for 17 years now.

Pins were adjusted for conductivity as needed, and I have 14ga feeders every 10 feet of track length.

I have no voltage drops anywhere, and have never needed to add a battery to any tmcc or Legacy loco.

I had one turnout that had a micro switch problem , and a couple of lighted bumpers needed track pin adjustments to light reliably.

Having said all that. Since I constructed my layout back in 2005. I believe somewhere along the way Lionel changed the design of the plastic roadbed making it more flimsy.

After this point, more complaints about conductivity began to occur, possibly due to a lower quality metal being used for the pins?

So, like many of Lionels products. There's a possibility that today's fastrack is not as reliable as fastrack early on. Be it changes in design, manufacturer,  or whatever.

Count me as another yay-sayer for Lionel Fastrack. My 88 sq. ft., 2-loop Fastrack layout has been up and running for over 10 years now with never a problem with the wiring or the track.

It’s been durable, dependable, and easy to keep clean. It’s also readily available and comes in various sizes for custom fitting.

@RickO,

I bought all my fastrack, new, since November of 2021.  I've read on this forum that someone believes there were (at least) 3 generations of fastrack, the first being the best, the second being good, and the third nowhere near what the first 2 were.

I like the simplicity of it, I don't like the quality.  I don't twist it or do anything that would cause a power drop, that happens all on its own.

In any case, I'm too far into it to look for another solution.  I'm hoping that some tricks I've picked up on this forum will cause my outlook on it to improve.