Tender light question

It is 6 volt bulb so plug it into the 2.4V battery and see if it lights.  If so can be a defective wire (broken solder joint under heat shrink), bad board fet, bad pv.  So hard to say, but easy to test bulb.  G

@terryd73 posted:

I have a RailKing triplex 30-1337-1 that both rear (red) tender lights quit working on, what is the likely hood that both bulbs burned out at once? The connector is plugged in and I can purchase the lights with wires from MTH but if it is more likely to be more than replacing the bulbs, it probably outside of my skill level. I do have a good volt/ohm meter but I don't know what voltage I should be looking for. Any thoughts?

Couple of things about this:

#1 it's a PS2 controlled light- so doing a reset, or even better using DCS and going down through the menu system to ensure the markers are on digitally is probably where I would start. I have seen engines where it's rare, but markers are off by default and you must have DCS and enable them. Again, making sure they are even turned on is kind of a first step.

From a DCS remote, click on the S5 key until the display shows more ->, then click on the S4 key. It will bring up a list of all the keys with a plain English description of their function. Scroll until you find the markers.

#2 Those marker lights might be LEDs in series- so if one failed, the pair is dead. It's a Y harness but again, rather than parallel, they might be in series.

MTH's new website has links for the manual and the parts listings https://www.mthtrains.com/products/30-1337-1

I filtered the list using the word "red" and it comes up

FYI, the marker lights as wired in PS2 and PS3 do not have a current limiting resistor- so I would caution that plugging into a 2.4V battery may not work (not enough forward voltage) and the lack of current limiting isn't ideal if you did have enough voltage.

If they are wired in parallel, yes the voltage is less, but if in series- probably close to that 6V but with current limiting is required to not instantly burn them out.

Got a chance to work on the lights and while using the remote to turn on marker lights did not help, I am able to prove the bulbs are good by using a DC transformer set at 5volts and testing the bulbs. If it is the board then I guess that I will live with it unless there is another place where I could pick up power for these lights. Is the board even repairable and would I have to send the whole locomotive and tender or could I just send the board from the tender? Thanks for the help.

Well, with a dropping resistor you can just power the LED's from track power, you just won't have program control to turn them on/off.  Try a 1K resistor to start...

Thanks John, I can handle that. Where would you recommend that I pick up the power, that is one place that I could use some direction.

Hi since you have DCS you should try a factory and feature reset from the DCS remote, i have seen the reset work for lighting and other issues, also you can do a maintenance reset help sometimes, use remote to reset maintenance every 1000 hours. also there is a MTH train shop in Ohio that can test your boards! there phone number is

440-774-2131

We are now open from 11-4 Tuesday –  Saturday again

https://stockyardexpressllc.com/

Alan