Tetherless Tender Issue

I know this was discussed a while back, but I do not recall the remedy. Got my Boys Train Set yesterday with the PS-3 263E. Tested it at the shop before bringing it home, all was well. Getting ready for train night with the group tonight I oiled it, then put on the track and off she went for half a loop and died. No headlight etc, but some sounds coming from the tender. Reseated the drawbar, no help. When Jeff & I were looking at it later, we noticed the connector at the loco end was undone. Reseated it, ran it for a while and it died again. There is just not enough slack in the harness so it pulls the plug on itself. Is there a way to get more slack in the harness?

thanks

Steve

3/9/141:51 AM

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Barry BroskowitzOGR Forum Member MEMORIALIZED MEMBER

Steve,

You didn't mention what diameter curves you're using. However, a longer drawbar might be the answer, particularly if you're using O31 or tighter curves, or if you have a tight S-curve.

Was there an additional drawbar included with the set, as there is with many separate-sale RK engines?

3/9/149:20 AM

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NortonOGR Forum Member

I am not familiar with this particular engine but isn't your drawbar attached to the engine with a screw? Would it be possible to place a washer under the screw that has an ID larger that the post the screw goes into that would push the drawbar further into the connector?

Pete

3/9/149:57 AM

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GGGOGR Forum Member

I guess it may depend on the model, but MTH website says O-31 curves.

I would remove the engine shell and see if some slack can be created in the harness and than make sure when it plugs in that it locks.

You can than examine the motion as you move the drawbar back and forth with the shell off to see how it responds. G

3/9/1410:56 AM

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CaptaincogOGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

Originally Posted by GGG:

I guess it may depend on the model, but MTH website says O-31 curves.

I would remove the engine shell and see if some slack can be created in the harness and than make sure when it plugs in that it locks.

You can than examine the motion as you move the drawbar back and forth with the shell off to see how it responds. G

After talking to Steve today it looks like he is going to try this first. I am curios to see what happens.

3/9/1411:25 PM

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Steve "Papa" EastmanOGR Forum Member

After returning from the TTOS SW meet, then a long, boring trip shopping for the boss's new car, I finally had time to look at it.

In the first and second photo's you can see how little wire there is coming out of the sleeving to the connector. As the draw bar would swing far for the 31" curves it tugged hard enough on the wires to unplug itself. There was a little bit of wire slack on the motor side of the sleeve so with the clamp disconnected, I was able to pull about 3/8" more wire out the connector side. Photo four is of a test run prior to putting things back together. At the end is a fully assemble test run video. Ran for 15-20 minutes with no issues.

Steve