Skip to main content

For those of you how have built your layout with such care and precision as if real live people were riding in your passenger cars, this topic is probably not for you, unless you are in the mood for a good laugh.

I am a scrounger at heart, who spent as little money as possible, and took every imaginable short cut, when I built my current layout 25 years ago. It was, and is,  a Rube Goldberg project. LOL.

If you are a serious model railroader whose goal is to completely eliminate derailments, I strongly recommend that you do not treat your track work like a Rube Goldberg project the way I did. LOL.

This morning I was running my pride and joy - a 1964 Lionel 773 Hudson that I recently purchased from my LHS. IMO, running a big locomotive like a 773 is a good way to detect any defects on an O Gauge tubular track layout like mine with 031 curves and 022 switches. Also, IMO, the 773 was brilliantly designed for maximum size and performance on a well built O Gauge (not 027) tubular track layout with sharp curves like mine.

My 773, particularly the four front wheels, was like a railroad safety engineer, with zero tolerance for shoddy trackwork!

After a couple of hours of hard work (Rube Goldberg must have been rollover in his grave),  I corrected several defects that caused derailments by using a shortcut that cost me nothing (Rube is happy again): shims (little pieces of wood or asphalt shingles), which did the trick, satisfying the sensitive front wheels of my glorious Hudson.

So, I am curious: how many of you use shims to remove derailments on your layout. If so, what did you specifically do when installing the shims.

Also, please feel free to share your thoughts about this subject and post, including how crazy you think I am if that is the way you feel.

Later I will post some photos about my track and shims beneath it.

LOL, Arnold

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Arnold I have used “shims” when I was transitioning from one level or grade to another to smooth out track work but not as a rule. To make a smoother/gentler transition normally at the top or bottom of a grade. Generally I find these areas just like you did with a larger locomotive my Premier Centipedes or the N & W Class A are both very good at finding those slight imperfections in my track work.

Rick, those huge locomotives you mention are even bigger than the 773, so I guess they also make good, militant railroad safety engineers to assure good track work and help eliminate derailments. They are very useful, IMO, for improving trackwork.

Incidentally, smaller locomotives like the 2035and others that run well on 027 curves hardly ever derail on my layout, regardless of track imperfections.

Don, when you mentioned tongue depressors, I checked your profile to see if you were a physician. 25 years ago my sister bought me a box of 1000 popsicle sticks at a arts and  craft store. I have used those Popsicle sticks as shims and for numerous other things on my layout, including O Scale bleachers on both of my baseball fields (baseball watching the Yankees with my father on TV and playing Little Lesgue and Pony League were a childhood obsession of mine). Arnold

Pictures of a few of my shims:

20201206_140540

A short trestle from the Lionel graduated trestle set.

20201206_140610

That orange trestle is from an S Gauge Americsn Flyer trestle set.

20201206_140638

Blocks of wood and a taller trestle from the Lionel graduated treste set.

20201206_140904

More blocks of wood and pieces from Asphalt roof shingles.

20201206_140940

More pieces of asphalt shingles and ground up asphalt that I found taking walks in my neighborhood. I used this ground up asphalt as ballast under the track  which, IMO, is the ultimate ballast for the scrounger. LOL, Arnold

Attachments

Images (4)
  • 20201206_140610
  • 20201206_140638
  • 20201206_140904
  • 20201206_140940
Videos (1)
20201204_212451

The best shims in the world are the 12 inch long, cedar shims, 1.5 inches wide, available at smaller hardware stores, and sometimes available at the big box hardwares.  They come in a shrinkwrap brick.   They are generally a mix of red and white cedar.

Because they are machine cut, these shims start out with a thickness of 1/4 inch, and then uniformly and evenly run down to virtually nothing.    They are great for shimming track and tightening up carpentry joints.

Don't buy the shorter,  eight inch, cheap whitewood shims sold in the big box stores.  They are worthless except for shimming door frames.

Mannyrock

Melgar,

So far, so good. Most of the work I did this morning involved rummaging through my piles of model railroad parts and junk to find the right size shims, positioning them under the track in the section of my layout near the washing machine and furnace, and testing the shims by running my big locomotives.

What surprises me is that some of the more serious model railroaders than me also use shims of various kinds. I would have thought that there was a better way to eliminate derailments because of track imperfections than using shims.

By the way, I had fun today posting more actively on the Forum.

Arnold

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×