Thinking about my Control Panel Design

@gunrunnerjohn - I wanted it to be fun and both intellectually challenging and intellectually stimulating.  I got the challenging part going on for sure, albeit the issues diminish the fun part considerably. A

"I inserted these small panels close to industries and sidings."

What a great idea, Dave!!

I’ve created several control panels in slide out drawers located around my layout, which is an around the wall plan with center island. These in combination with TMCC and DCS remotes allow me to control the action close to where it occurs, which I prefer over a central control panel. I’ve even embedded one sub-panel in a rock face along one side of the center island. See pictures below.

I did the schematics using PowerPoint, which allows adjusting line widths and colors, along with importing logos and graphics. Text is easily applied to annotate the diagram. The PowerPoint slides are printed on a color printer and taped together to achieve a wider control panel. These sheets are then sandwiched between 2 sheets of .083 plexiglass from a big box store. This sandwich is easily drilled for switches and bi-color LEDs.

BTW - I use a small pilot drill (1/8”) followed by a step drill (reamer of sorts) - mine is from Irwin and is called Unibit. This allows gradually expanding the hole size until it perfectly matches the switch or LED, and does not shatter or fracture the plexiglass. I find this works much better than attempting a direct drilling of the appropriate hole size.

@GMC posted:

I’ve created several control panels in slide out drawers located around my layout, which is an around the wall plan with center island. These in combination with TMCC and DCS remotes allow me to control the action close to where it occurs, which I prefer over a central control panel. I’ve even embedded one sub-panel in a rock face along one side of the center island. See pictures below.

I did the schematics using PowerPoint, which allows adjusting line widths and colors, along with importing logos and graphics. Text is easily applied to annotate the diagram. The PowerPoint slides are printed on a color printer and taped together to achieve a wider control panel. These sheets are then sandwiched between 2 sheets of .083 plexiglass from a big box store. This sandwich is easily drilled for switches and bi-color LEDs.

BTW - I use a small pilot drill (1/8”) followed by a step drill (reamer of sorts) - mine is from Irwin and is called Unibit. This allows gradually expanding the hole size until it perfectly matches the switch or LED, and does not shatter or fracture the plexiglass. I find this works much better than attempting a direct drilling of the appropriate hole size.

What sort of bit did you use to drill the small pilot hole without cracking the plexi - high speed twist, brad point or the step bit ? Thanks.

I used the RRTrack program to make an approximate depiction of my layout. The paper print was pasted to a thin board to provide structure and a lucite covering protected the paper. Holes were drilled for SPDT switches at the turnout locations along with holes for bi-color red-green LEDs to indicate switch position. Additional lights were added to show when voltage was applied to the rails.

@Richie C. posted:

What sort of bit did you use to drill the small pilot hole without cracking the plexi - high speed twist, brad point or the step bit ? Thanks.

Nothing special - simple high speed twist. Mine are Hitachi, but any would do.

I also have a set of pilot point tip bits that I would not recommend. They seem to grab a surface very agressively and I believe would quickly fracture the plexiglass.

John:

After my move to CA from PA 6 years ago I started planning my new layout - a 12' X 17' track plan in the living space of my home. Not wanting to have a big control panel (as I had in my prior 2 larger layouts) I decided that a control panel was only needed for my freight yard area. While all switch tracks were wired for control via SC2s, I found it more convenient to push a button on a mini panel rather than a bunch of commands using the Legacy controller. Here is the mini-panel I made for the freight yard tracks, including DZ1000 controls, Gargraves uncouplers and track power switches:

The rest of the layout had DZ1000 push buttons on the (Mianne) fascia, a rotary switch to route power to the turntable whisker tracks and other siding power was controlled by SC2s.

Good luck with your project!

Stan

I'm being swayed by the mini-panel idea, that would be a more "bite sized" way to tackle this issue.

John, the mini panel makes a lot of sense, but before you go to all the trouble of constructing these (and possibly duplicating their functions in a second location), I'd suggest running trains for a few months. You will find that you prefer to stand (or sit) in certain locations around the room. These spots just might be where you want a second or even third panel that will duplicated the functions of the original panel.

Good thread John !!

I have a large donut layout with a peninsula in the middle, so I need to control outside the donut and inside. need three panels on the outside and three duplicates on the inside.  Right now I just use my DCS remote but panels would work so much easier. Maybe a couple of iPads with switch diagrams would work for me. any how I'm going to keep this thread on my radar. thanks for starting this John.

@modeltrainsparts posted:

John, the mini panel makes a lot of sense, but before you go to all the trouble of constructing these (and possibly duplicating their functions in a second location), I'd suggest running trains for a few months. You will find that you prefer to stand (or sit) in certain locations around the room. These spots just might be where you want a second or even third panel that will duplicated the functions of the original panel.

Best suggestion I've heard so far.  The switches can be thrown manually until you decide where you want to put the control boards.

@GMC posted:

Nothing special - simple high speed twist. Mine are Hitachi, but any would do.

I also have a set of pilot point tip bits that I would not recommend. They seem to grab a surface very agressively and I believe would quickly fracture the plexiglass.

Thanks - My panel is a plain paper track outline with numbered switches laid on thin hardwood and covered by a clear lucite/polycarbonate panel which I intend to screw into the hardwood with decorative screws. The board will then be affixed to the layout edging with adjustable shelf supports/closures so the entire panel can go from flat to 45 degrees to closed and out of the way.

I'll practice drilling on a scrap piece before the real thing.

Trust me, the "final" panel or panels won't be build too soon.  I'll be using the remote to command control the switches, as some of them would be very hard to reach manually.  All I need for command control is to bring all the wires back to a common place and connect the serial data.  I may just hack a temporary panel with the Z-Stuff switches and tape for track outlines, just to get the ball rolling.  I'm trying to get some ideas of different approaches so that when I wire.  I am trying to not preclude doing something that I can live with long term.

Locating turnout panels for Open Run Room event for all ages may be critical.  To avoid surprises while running, my turnout panels are out of reach of temptation.

Here is the Engine House roof toward the center of the Industrial Yard.

This is the Main Control Panel mounted at eye level.

The accessory controls are mounted at the accessory locations for "instant gratification".

I enjoy watching the mothers panic when the kids run around pushing buttons and toggling switches.  Of course it takes a day or two to restore order.

Although I'm sure little ones will visit, I'm not expecting a crush of them.

GRJ, whatever you do, I highly recommend that your panel include a "machine-gun" switching function like mine...

What in the world is that all about?

I think if I have a "machine gun" feature, I'd want a GE Mini-Gun sound.

I figured that would make you scratch your head

That’s what happens when you throw an MTH AIU controlled turnout after accidentally touching the “ALL” button in the DCS app. It just goes ripping through those relays in sequence.

That's an odd behavior, I'm not sure I'd be happy with that behavior! :d