Thoughts on using printable card stock paper buildings on a small layout instead of Platicville or expensive kits.
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I was just posting on your layout thread about a site that has a lot of cardstock buildings that may be better sized for o27 type equipment.
Try here:
http://www.bigindoortrains.com/
Lots of stuff to go through; I'm sure something there will catch your eye.
J White
Westport Model Works has modular card stock drawings in O, S, HO and N scales that would enable you to select drawings specific to your needs. See OGR scenery board for details.
Thoughts on using printable card stock paper buildings on a small layout instead of Platicville or expensive kits.
That could be quite nice, if you have the patience and skills. Not many people do.
It's your layout. Do what you want.
I was just posting on your layout thread about a site that has a lot of cardstock buildings that may be better sized for o27 type equipment.
Try here:
http://www.bigindoortrains.com/
Lots of stuff to go through; I'm sure something there will catch your eye.
J White
Great site forgot about this one
I especially like the hint about cutting out extra trim to give the flat prints depth.
Something else you can do: spray-adhere your prints to foamcore (the 1/4" stuff, not the big heavy insulation...although there are places you could use that, too) and, when you have siding or other indented spots, use a straightedge and a fine steel crochet hook to press down the lines. A dried-up ballpoint pen will also sort of work, but a #5 or 7 steel hook has a smaller head and is angled. An unused #0 knitting needle with also work. Both are also handy when you need to score fold lines on the back of a print.
By the way, if you do those little glitter houses on the site (and you should if you like a traditional holiday toy look)...don't forget to let them dry well, then shake them and hit them with AquaNet hairspray before you get them near your year-round layout or the Christmas tree. Just don't ask how I found out that was important.
I especially like the hint about cutting out extra trim to give the flat prints depth.
Something else you can do: spray-adhere your prints to foamcore (the 1/4" stuff, not the big heavy insulation...although there are places you could use that, too) and, when you have siding or other indented spots, use a straightedge and a fine steel crochet hook to press down the lines. A dried-up ballpoint pen will also sort of work, but a #5 or 7 steel hook has a smaller head and is angled. An unused #0 knitting needle with also work. Both are also handy when you need to score fold lines on the back of a print.
By the way, if you do those little glitter houses on the site (and you should if you like a traditional holiday toy look)...don't forget to let them dry well, then shake them and hit them with AquaNet hairspray before you get them near your year-round layout or the Christmas tree. Just don't ask how I found out that was important.
Thanks for the tips
Good cardstock buildings - ones that might take a bit to make - look really good. Note the buildings in AMCDave's pictures. The windows are recessed, and lots of other detial is three dimensional. Do that instead of just using a flat printed facade and and they are fantastic.
Thoughts on using printable card stock paper buildings on a small layout instead of Platicville or expensive kits.
I've been doing that on my O-27 layout. I draw them up on the computer and print them out. I glue the cardstock to foamcore.
The Quonset hut, the barbeque joint, the interlocking tower and gas station (including the pumps) are cardstock.
Here's a church house too.
Thoughts on using printable card stock paper buildings on a small layout instead of Platicville or expensive kits.
I've been doing that on my O-27 layout. I draw them up on the computer and print them out. I glue the cardstock to foamcore.
The Quonset hut, the barbeque joint, the interlocking tower and gas station (including the pumps) are cardstock.
Here's a church house too.
They look great