Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

My biggest advice would be to read and follow the directions and practice a good deal first - and order a couple more 13 oz cans of propellant and some paint and just paint cheap trow away stuff until you get the feel of it.  As you practice note that as the pressure on the can decreases - particularly near the end when it just about reaches the regulator's limit, the air brush will spray a bit differently.   It's best to learn to watch for and anticipate when you are about to run out of air, and just stop at that point.  Early on, I had one that dribbled and spit as the can reached the regulator limit, and it ruined what I was working on.  

Slow down and don't cut corners with thinners, I've learned that using the same brand thinner as paint works best for me, takes out the guess work.

 

ALWAYS clean your airbrush when you're finished, make sure you know how it comes apart and goes back together.

 

The Iwata girl that demo'ed their airbrush to me said to thin paint to the consistency of 2% milk.  I couldn't tell their compressor was even on it was so quiet.  If I ever get another one, it'll be an Iwata.

 

If you ever decide to get an air compressor, get one that's quiet.  I have an old Miller compressor (1/10 hp) and it's very loud (makes me get in a hurry too for some reason).

 

Again, take you time when using the airbrush, don't get in a hurry (but don't stop in mid-pass or you'll get runs).

I'd like to underline Bob Delbridge's point about thinner. With acrylics, NEVER use a different brand of thinner than the paint. I once tried to thin some Badger paint with Polly S thinner and it clumped up. I had to throw away the batch and cleaning the airbrush was no fun. You can use distilled water to thin acrylic paint if you don't have the right brand of thinner.

 

Solvent based paints are usually more forgiving. Many can be thinned with mineral spirits or naphtha, but it's still better to use the matching brand of thinner. Henning's ecommends naphtha for its Collector Color enamels (matching colors for old tinplate). 

 

Keep the airbrush very, very clean. 

 

Propellant cans are OK to start out on, but if you're going to be doing much painting, get yourself a compressor, preferably with an air tank. Oilless models are best, but you can use an oil-lubricated compressor if you have a top-quality filter in the air line. 

Weaver makes some fine paints:

 

http://www.weavermodels.com/page7.html

 

Probably the smoothest finish I've seen on any model using this paint.

 

I use mainly acrylics these days but with discontinuance of Testors Floquil and Polyscale paints I'm going to look at TruColor Paint:

 

http://www.trucolorpaint.com/

 

I emailed them and got some pdf files of their paints chips but haven't had the need to buy any yet.

And just like the rest of this hobby, after reading everyones advice, tips, and techniques, you will develop your own way. What I do and like, may not work for you, and you will hate it. Personally I hate acrylics and won't put them through an airbrush, but some people love them. Practice on some scrap or junk before you try it on a nice piece.

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×