TMCC Acela Question

Yes, either the old "grey" series Lionel TMCC TrainMaster Command Base & CAB-1 Remote Control Set 6-12911 6-12868

Again, the key is the remote of this system has the pull out antenna

or the newer CAB1L "blue" series that has no external antenna required.

Ideally you want the newer blue series because it uses 2.4 GHz between the remote and the base, where as the older system was TMCC only and used 27MHz like old RC cars that needed the antenna extended for range.

Last, the new CAB3 base can either work with the CAB2 or CAB1L blue remote.

Awesome, Thanks a bunch! Seems like the Cab 1L is hard to come by these days, so I might have to get the older version.

I have seen a few Legacy sets also come up recently for around the 600.00 range.  That would work too and give you full Legacy control for any other Legacy Engines too.  Just keep looking one of the sets will come up eventually.

Can i get an explanation on what exactly the new LionelBase 3 is supposed to accomplish other then allowing all 3 wireless  (Cab 1, 1l and 2) work together?  Whats the big deal Thanks

@Don Beck posted:

Can i get an explanation on what exactly the new LionelBase 3 is supposed to accomplish other then allowing all 3 wireless  (Cab 1, 1l and 2) work together?  Whats the big deal Thanks

Lionel BASE3 Description

The big deal appears the running of all the LC, LC+, LC+ 2.0, TMCC, and Legacy through a single app, but that's no big whoop to me.  It also has 4-digit addresses, but that requires you to buy all new engines.   It has a longer range BT transceiver, but that doesn't help the current products, only new stuff going forward.

Since I only have LC+ 2.0 and I run them with TMCC, and my Legacy stuff I run with Legacy, the BT improvement and LC, LC+ features don't do anything for me.  I'm not going to buy enough new Legacy to make the 4-digit addresses all that useful to me either.

The 4 address thing means nothing to me  I dont plan on running trains via the phone, the rest is a non starter and I dont get why they spent so much time and money on this.  Lame if you ask me

Well, a lot of people appear to be jumping on the bandwagon, I'm just not one of them.  At least they retained compatibility with their CAB2 remote, when MTH did their new TIU, the dropped support for the DCS Remote!

Remote support was dropped for NOT being tethered. Remote can still be used but tethered. Just means more wiring I guess. Kinda like the DCC days of wiring jacks all around your table. Glad Lionel held onto remote albeit an app when your remote fails (except Cab1L which they continue to manufacture)

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Lionel BASE3 Description

The big deal appears the running of all the LC, LC+, LC+ 2.0, TMCC, and Legacy through a single app, but that's no big whoop to me.  It also has 4-digit addresses, but that requires you to buy all new engines.   It has a longer range BT transceiver, but that doesn't help the current products, only new stuff going forward.

Since I only have LC+ 2.0 and I run them with TMCC, and my Legacy stuff I run with Legacy, the BT improvement and LC, LC+ features don't do anything for me.  I'm not going to buy enough new Legacy to make the 4-digit addresses all that useful to me either.

There are aspects of some of my trains that work only on Bluetooth.  For example, the Pennsylvania Limited set has a sound car that only operates through Bluetooth.  I was running it in TMCC mode until I learned about the additional features available in Bluetooth mode.

@CurtisH posted:

Remote support was dropped for NOT being tethered. Remote can still be used but tethered. Just means more wiring I guess. Kinda like the DCC days of wiring jacks all around your table. Glad Lionel held onto remote albeit an app when your remote fails (except Cab1L which they continue to manufacture)

No Curtis, it's much more than that!  It only supports ONE tethered remote, so jacks all over still only support one remote total in operation.  Besides, if I'm cabled to the TIU, that's not a remote the way I define it.

@RixTrack posted:

There are aspects of some of my trains that work only on Bluetooth.  For example, the Pennsylvania Limited set has a sound car that only operates through Bluetooth.  I was running it in TMCC mode until I learned about the additional features available in Bluetooth mode.

Maybe so, but I don't have that car.   The flaky operation and limited range of the existing BT options doesn't impress me.

I hear you John, BUT (as you say it ISN'T TRULY REMOTE and I agree)  You can put jacks in other places and after plugging in THAT jack you could move to a different area and Plug in the remote to THAT wire Ext. You don't have to stand at the transformer. This could be done for a YARD on the FAR side of a layout. It gives you the capability to have a WIRED REMOTE at the yard location. I am not arguing your statement just saying there are options how be it still wired! So you still have somewhat of an option although definitely not ideal or truly a remote.

Just following up again and could use some help.  I bought the TMCC Cab 1 Set with the Powermaster, however I can't seem to program it with the Acela. It runs in Conventional Mode just fine, but when I try programming the train, nothing. I have the Engine set to Prog, as well as the powermaster.

"It runs in Conventional Mode just fine"

This is amazing - as complicated and sensitive the Acela is, am surprised it runs fine right off! You are indeed fortunate. Of all the posts and threads I've read this may be the first time anyone has mentioned running the Acela in conventional mode...

@Pelham6express posted:

Just following up again and could use some help.  I bought the TMCC Cab 1 Set with the Powermaster, however I can't seem to program it with the Acela. It runs in Conventional Mode just fine, but when I try programming the train, nothing. I have the Engine set to Prog, as well as the powermaster.

First off, remove the PowerMaster.  It's really only necessary for running conventional equipment using the handheld remote.  Since you want to run the Acela in command mode you won't need it, at least not yet.

You'll simply turn your existing transformer up nearly to full throttle after placing the Acela on the track.

Before turning on this power however make sure that your Base-1's power brick is plugged into a properly grounded outlet and its antenna wire is connected to one of the track's outside rails.

Option 1, address already set to '1':

Now, all locos come from the factory pre-programmed with the address being "1".

So try accessing 1 first. i.e. on the remote (Cab-1) press 'ENG' then '1', and then rotate the knob.

Does it move now?

If it doesn't most likely someone before you has changed the address to another number.  If so we need to go to Option 2 ...

Mike

@c.sam posted:

"It runs in Conventional Mode just fine"

This is amazing - as complicated and sensitive the Acela is, am surprised it runs fine right off! You are indeed fortunate. Of all the posts and threads I've read this may be the first time anyone has mentioned running the Acela in conventional mode...

Hahahaha, yeah these things are nightmares to deal with, I scored it for $1,000 on ebay so Im lucky it even runs!

Has anyone figured out hot to force close the doors that will not close?  Someone said attaching a 9v battery somewhere  Alone heard that?

@Mellow Hudson Mike posted:

First off, remove the PowerMaster.  It's really only necessary for running conventional equipment using the handheld remote.  Since you want to run the Acela in command mode you won't need it, at least not yet.

You'll simply turn your existing transformer up nearly to full throttle after placing the Acela on the track.

Before turning on this power however make sure that your Base-1's power brick is plugged into a properly grounded outlet and its antenna wire is connected to one of the track's outside rails.

Option 1, address already set to '1':

Now, all locos come from the factory pre-programmed with the address being "1".

So try accessing 1 first. i.e. on the remote (Cab-1) press 'ENG' then '1', and then rotate the knob.

Does it move now?

If it doesn't most likely someone before you has changed the address to another number.  If so we need to go to Option 2 ...

Mike

Sorry I should've clarified, It was the Cab 1 Base, not the powermaster my apologies. The Base turns on and I have it hooked up to the wires from the Lionel Fastrack. I tried the ENG 1 and moving the knob but to no avail still. Im really hoping its not an antenna issue.

@Don Beck posted:

Has anyone figured out hot to force close the doors that will not close?  Someone said attaching a 9v battery somewhere  Alone heard that?

If you're running it conventionally try hitting the direction switch, that usually works for me. I've heard this is a persistent problem on these things.

Are you getting lights on inside the unit?

@Pelham6express posted:

Sorry I should've clarified, It was the Cab 1 Base, not the powermaster my apologies. The Base turns on and I have it hooked up to the wires from the Lionel Fastrack. I tried the ENG 1 and moving the knob but to no avail still. Im really hoping its not an antenna issue.

When you turn the knob does the light on the base flicker (indicating that the remote is communicating with the base)?

If not you might need fresh batteries in the remote, or the base is not being powered in spite of being plugged in.

... Option 2 is coming up next ...

Mike