I have 5 trains that use the TMCC. Trains MD 204 and PA 8512 work fine. UP 1982 and NY Central 125 give blinking head lights indicating a week signal. They try to move but stop and go. PA Switcher 411 runs away and receives no TMCC commands. I assume it is the circuit board in the Switcher. I have the 2-arm bandit transformer from the early 50s. The transformer delivers 17.7 volts and looses 0.4 volts with the track clip-on for delivering power. I turned off all wireless signals thru out the house and it did nothing. I believe that I may need to bite the bullet and eliminate the transformer from the TMCC and use it only to run accessories. My o-gauge track is used for most of the platform with one section using fast track.
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You missed the most important part of the information, what command system are you using, the original TMCC BASE1/CAB1, the newer BASE1L/CAB1L, or the Legacy command system? It's VERY unlikely that your transformer has anything to do with your signal issues.
Did you change anything on the layout before this issue started happening? Have you tried the problem locomotives on another layout?
Thanks, I have the base 1L/Cab1L. I did not change anything but I had health issues and had not operated the trains for about 5 months. I did not try using another layout but I dealt with a train store in Lebanon, PA and I may give them a call. It is about 1.5 hour drive, but it may be the best method for me now.
90 minutes seems like a long drive, where exactly do you live?
I live in east prospect PA
Louis,
No. 1 is to check the Base's power supply where it's plugged into the wall outlet, or extension cord. For best trouble free operation (no flickering headlights) this MUST be plugged into a properly grounded outlet.
If you use an extension cord make sure it is a 3-wire grounded one.
Unless you have a big layout, or one with multiple level track, these actions should be sufficient to solve most problems with flickering headlights.
Mike
Start by testing the ground connection of your house wiring. Buy an outlet tester (aka receptacle tester) and determine that the outlet where your TMCC power brick (with the three prongs) is plugged is properly grounded.
Another key to signal strength and grounding. Do not plug the command base into a surge protector as that may interfere with the signal strength. An extension cord may be OK, but best to make sure you have a good connection by checking on the outlet and plugging the wall wart directly into the outlet. If you have an older house (before the 1970s and 1980s in particular) your outlet may not be properly grounded if some people's experience is correct.