Skip to main content

I'm considering a purchase of a MTH ABA diesel set which was modified to TMCC by Train America Studios with their technology  (not ERR).  Is the company still in business and providing follow-on service?  I don't want to buy a loco set that is a "stepchild."

I called the Train America Studios phone number, but the call didn't go through.

With thanks in advance,

Mike M.   LCCA 12394

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I'm considering a purchase of a MTH ABA diesel set which was modified to TMCC by Train America Studios with their technology  (not ERR).  Is the company still in business and providing follow-on service?

No, and hasn't been in business for many, MANY years.

I don't want to buy a loco set that is a "stepchild."

Last edited by OGR CEO-PUBLISHER

This is kind of a timely question since I wonder if I might be looking at having to upgrade a 3rd Rail engine from the TAS EOB electronics.  Apologies in advance this is highjacking the thread too badly, but I ended up snagging a still new and sealed in the box CB&Q 4-8-4 recently and initially it ran beautifully with no issues.  But on a couple of instances it has done something strange...  It'll be running along nicely then suddenly will speed up, slow down, speed up, then maybe stop, or some variation of this.  The last time it did this I noticed a clicking sound coming through the engine sounds on the speaker.  If I power the track down and back up again it's fine again as if nothing happened.  Is this a behavior that would indicate a board that's bad or in the process of going bad?  Or maybe just an issue with the wiring that needs to be looked for and fixed?  I haven't had any experience with these failing before so was wondering what I should be watching for...

There will always be some form of electronics available to run our trains. Most engines that are older either had EOB, K-Line cruise or Proto 2. All can be considered time bombs. If the Roadname you desire is hard to find. I’d probably go for it at a good price. It’s still a running engine and EOB although dated still has it’s following. Your other option would be buy an expensive new one and pay to have it repainted into what you want.

@CCTSteam posted:

This is kind of a timely question since I wonder if I might be looking at having to upgrade a 3rd Rail engine from the TAS EOB electronics.  Apologies in advance this is highjacking the thread too badly, but I ended up snagging a still new and sealed in the box CB&Q 4-8-4 recently and initially it ran beautifully with no issues.  But on a couple of instances it has done something strange...  It'll be running along nicely then suddenly will speed up, slow down, speed up, then maybe stop, or some variation of this.  The last time it did this I noticed a clicking sound coming through the engine sounds on the speaker.  If I power the track down and back up again it's fine again as if nothing happened.  Is this a behavior that would indicate a board that's bad or in the process of going bad?  Or maybe just an issue with the wiring that needs to be looked for and fixed?  I haven't had any experience with these failing before so was wondering what I should be watching for...

A loose connection in the tether between tender and engine or the spacing of the tach reader and flywheel is off. If you have a eight pin tether, it’s highly recommended you add a ground wire from the tach reader, to the EOB motherboard.  A one pin tether, as if the tach reader looses ground connection to the motherboard it will blow up.

I actually prefer EOB over ERR.  Slow speed operation is much better with EOB, IMO.  You don’t need extra boards (Sorry John) for chuffing smoke.  I have several engines with EOB and I have spare boards for any future issues.  Spare working boards are out there anyway.  Besides if my EOB engines electronics die and can’t be replaced, no ERR for me.  Full legacy conversion is my way to go

Last edited by superwarp1

Bobby
Dave
Superwarp
Texas Eagle 77

Thanks for adding to the dialog.  The MTH Rock Island ABA diesel set in this case is the Railking version (not Premiere) and is offered by the widow of a hobbyist/collector.  Its original cost was $699, and she's asking $450. Given the situation, that's too much for me, and I believe it would be disrespectful (and exploitive) to offer $250 [$100 for the two powered units and $50 for the non-powered unit).

The diesels would be "nice to have," but in my case, the set is not a "gotta have." So I'll pass. Perhaps another hobbyist/collector would come forward, accept its TAS technology, be willing to replace it with ERR if necessary, and be happy with the deal.

Mike M.   LCCA 12394

They should fit in most locomotives.  Obviously, you need fan driven smoke to use the Super-Chuffer, but that's pretty much the only requirement.  The actual Super-Chuffer module is 0.9" x 1.0" x 0.5".

  • Smoke Unit fan motor control for synchronized chuffing with RailSounds output.
  • Dynamic braking of smoke unit motor and chuff duration control enhances the appearance of the smoke chuff output at all speeds.
  • Smoke fan motor runs continuously at slow speed when locomotive is stopped.
  • Rule 17 LED light control for headlight, dimming when locomotive is stopped.
  • TMCC headlight voltage input to control headlight on/off state from remote.
  • Automatic control to turn cab light on when stopped, off when moving.
  • Smoke motor inactive if smoke is turned off.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • mceclip0
Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

They should fit in most locomotives.  Obviously, you need fan driven smoke to use the Super-Chuffer, but that's pretty much the only requirement.  The actual Super-Chuffer module is 0.9" x 1.0" x 0.5".

  • Smoke Unit fan motor control for synchronized chuffing with RailSounds output.
  • Dynamic braking of smoke unit motor and chuff duration control enhances the appearance of the smoke chuff output at all speeds.
  • Smoke fan motor runs continuously at slow speed when locomotive is stopped.
  • Rule 17 LED light control for headlight, dimming when locomotive is stopped.
  • TMCC headlight voltage input to control headlight on/off state from remote.
  • Automatic control to turn cab light on when stopped, off when moving.
  • Smoke motor inactive if smoke is turned off.

What fan driven smoke  unit would you recommend?

I have been working on my Z-6 3rd rail challenger for a while now. I have a CB&Q 4-8-4 that I have never ran yet, nervous about running it!! I am gonna take it apart and check the .30 thousandths flywheel tach reader gap first. I do like the EOB, but I will never buy another locomotive with that set-up. Too much trouble with my Z-6 challenger. When you get the gap right, they really do run very smooth and they crawl very slowly.

It's too bad that it's so hard to find parts for them!!!

I need a tach reader board, and can't find one anywhere.

Well, my board probably wouldn't be worth doing that to it, if it can be done. I may need your chuff generator, can I use my existing flywheel stripe tape that it came with??

Now I kinda of wish I hadn't bought these 3rd rail engine with TAS, EOB. Although they run real good and are quiet and smooth when everything is good. I am just not sure about EOB, if they will run for a long time or if I will keep having trouble.

Thanks gun runnerjohn. I will let you know if I need one of your chuff generators!!

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×