Train Shelves

IMO, the simplest idea is 1X4s on angle brackets screwed to every other wall stud.  My motto in the train room is "Trains First" when spending $$.

A discussion of train shelves should include Glen Snyder Display System

 

The GSDS shelves are less than $3 per lineal foot.

 

Here is my solution!

Cheap and simple shelving.

Pegboard, brackets and shelves. Cut the shelves to width and then adjusted table saw and cut in the grooves into the top and the wheel sets drop right in!

 

Glenn Snyder Display Systems & Custom Shelving.

In the Train Room / Man Cave

  Click photos to enlarge.

When I began installing shelving in my train room I originally went with the adjustable brackets and shelves option. They took me a fair amount of time to install and I realized (too late) that I really have no need to adjust them once they are in place.

Later, I started using the Glen Snyder system. It weighs less, installs much faster, takes up less space, eliminates the need to use track on the shelves (for the trains to sit on), and (in my opinion) looks nicer.

Alot of great ides here. Here's a 4 x train cabinet I built 15+ years ago out of 1 x 6  and 1 x 5 VG Fir. I'm a finish carpenter by trade so it was straightforward for me- feel free to ask me how I did it.

 

Geno

That's a lovely looking piece, blackbird.  Furniture quality, by the looks.

 

These are Rail Rax which are exactly like the Snyders except for the finish. They really have a neat streamlined appearance that really highlights the trains instead of the shelf.

Okay, so you built those fancy shelves and now display some 10,000 dollars worth of model trains. What about an earthquake or a tornado? After all, some folks do live in areas where such activities can and will occur. I mention this because most folks do not think about the unintended consequences of putting up shelves and watching their collections literally fall off. Thus rendering the shelves as useless.

 

Now in most instances, shelves work and please don't anyone take my commentary the wrong way here. Lets just say I am dubious about displaying such beautiful and expensive items like this because "STUFF" does happen and do you really want to take that chance? After all, many in here have very expensive collections.

 

One solution is too place a clear cover in front so that if the unthinkable happens, the cover may deter the trains from falling off the shelves. (Please see Eric's Trains). He did this primarily to keep his locomotives clean, safe and free from falling as well as children visiting and touching.

 

Again, in most instances, most do not deal with earthquakes or even tornadoes. Yet, we had an earthquake several years ago right here and it was enough to cause some damage to property and structures. So, my suggestion is place something in front of those expensive, irreplaceable and beautiful locomotives/trains when displaying them in this manner to ensure they will be secure and safe.

 

 

Otherwise, get real good home owners insurance that will cover these items.

 

Pete

 

 

Heare are my shelves...

GSD..... quick, easy, and the shelf is barely visible. Makes the trains the definite center of attention.

 

I want to second what Pete (the train yard) just said - some of us do live in earthquake country (Northern CA) so having open shelving doesn't seem like a good idea.  I think at a minimum one needs to have a clear plastic sheet (lucite) in front of the shelves to ensure that nothing falls to the floor...

We just had an earthquake last night, and several in the past. Never been an issue for me but we dont live on a fault line or very near one for that matter.

A train that continues around the wall - BRILLIANT. Such an easy concept that I never thought of. I have one very long train that I was wondering how to display.

A question about hanging GSD shelves - is a 16" OC stud spacing required?

No.  But at the least 24" on center. At least (4) fasteners per 6ft shelf. IMO.  Install instruction are available from the GSD website.   #10 X 1.5" screws are required.

Miketg-

 

I love the Glenn Snyder/RailRax display shelves, but after moving into a new space I ran into a huge problem anchoring the shelving into plaster walls. After exhausting every possible fastening system option in Home Depot, I looked into Showcase Express' line of shelving, but was a bit too expensive for my application. Ultimately I ended up with the Elfa system (from the Container Store) with Lionel's Fastrack on top. The results came out better than expected.

 

-John

Thanks, Mike.  I understand now, I drill my own holes in the shelve back for my own spacing.  I just checked with the stud finder and it looks like I'm good for 16" OC anyways. 

 

I want to put three shelves on the top right corner of this wall.  I have 15" of height in this area, will 5" spacing be okay?  My tallest equipment is 4-1/2" tall.

Yes 5" between will be fine. You can go as tight as will fit, it just makes it a little more difficult to get the stuff up and in there.

I squeezed 2 shelves above the door jams and it was a tight fit, but they fit. Gives me more storage space when its all said and done.

My shelves pictured are spaced at 5"  I like the K4 picture.  I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood 4 ft long X 5 " Bottom shelf installed level, the other shelves with the spacer were relatively easy.  Spend some time locating stud center before you drill the shelves.   Keep in mind that Glenn can cut the shelves for you.  The shorter shelves I pictured came pre-cut.  

 

Pre-cut from GSDS.  The two pieces are 42" and 28 1/2", both from the 6 ft length.

K4 picture.

Hey John - looks great! What was the size of brackets and boards did you use? Got a Container Store close by and it looks as they are running these on sale.  Thanks

 

Mike

Some of the metal shelves are pictured with the lip (for mounting to the wall) on the bottom and some show it on top.

 

is there any advantage to either?

 

i like the lip on top so the displayed train kinda hides it.

My cheap and simple train shelves are eight foot long 2x6's mounted on adjustable-height shelf brackets. 2x6's are rigid enough, I space the supports 24" to match wall studs - only 3 vertical tracks for 8-foot long shelves. I groove flangeways into the 2x6's on a radial arm saw, which makes it easy and convenient to place cars and locos in line without requiring additional track on the shelves. 

 

Mike,

 

I bought the K4 poster at the Horseshoe Curve visitor center two years ago, it was on clearance for $2.99.  I like yours too, where did you get it?  

Here are some of mine.

Another great option for train shelves is a company based in Hershey, PA call... of all things... TRAINSHELF. 

 

For years, his booth is right near the OGR booth in the Orange Hall... more or less across the aisle as you leave the OGR booth walking toward the rear of the Orange Hall.  The satin-finish aluminum is the perfect look, as I'm not as much a fan of glossy shelving.  Not the least expensive solution out there, but it's super-strong and gets my vote any day.  It's also handy for multi-gauge displays too.

 

David

very simple and very strong.

 

I built this one from 1x4 about 20 years ago. I didn't measure and build it to fit only boxcars at the time.

 

In the train room, I'm not sure who makes these. I bought all of it in bulk for $20 at a Dupage show maybe five years ago. It's all aluminum, but has grooves in the shelf for wheel flanges. I'm pretty sure the different width grooves are for all/any scale train, but I haven't tried any others.

 

Mike-

 

I used the standard 30" long x 8" wide melamine boards in the "driftwood" color. The brackets are 6" deep and in a platinum color. I was able to mount the top shelf high enough to conceal the track used to anchor the shelving into the wall.

 

-John

Here's the shelves I've made from 1X4 with rounded edges.

 

I bought some aluminum ones, but my one set of shelves are made out of door jambs laid horizontal. They have sets of grooves which are not exactly O gauge, but work well to keep the trains on the shelf.

The famous late Ward Kimball fabricated EARTHQUAKE CLIPS to attach  to his shelves.

I build my own shelves.  I have about 300' in my train room and have built several  hundred feet for friends.  For unpainted shelves I hand select #2 and better pine 1"x6" boards.  I rip a 3 1/2" piece off for the shelf and use the remaining 2" piece for the mounting back.  Since the majority of my train room is finished in vertical pine ship lap, I finish my shelves naturally.  I have made some for friends that they wanted to paint and I constructed those out of pre-primed finger jointed boards.

 

When installing the shelves on sheet rock I locate the studs and secure the shelves to the studs.  When installing on the vertical ship lap I still install with screws on 16"centers for a uniform look.  I use heavy duty kitchen wall cabinet screws with large designer heads.  I cut the wheel grooves to fit the gauge.

 

I have had several collectors see the shelves and ask where I got them.  When I told them I made them they wanted to know if I made them to sell.  I have done some for local pickup but to ship, the shipping cost, especially for longer ones, would be very high and packaging difficult.  On many occasions I have sent drawings and suggested the collector contact his/her local high school industrial arts dept and maybe the kids in the wood working shop could make them.  I know it has worked out for several people.

 

Jim

Email sent, those look great, and may just what I need for my train room that I'll start working on this weekend.