Transformer Questions

I do not think so.  Rating for current is less and the brick can source more current before a trip of breaker.  G

@GGG posted:

I do not think so.  Rating for current is less and the brick can source more current before a trip of breaker.  G

Thanks. I'll stop doing that and go back to using 500 bricks. Is there enough juice on a 500 brick to run two tracks with a subway on each, do you think, or should they have separate controllers?

I appreciate your help.

@pdxtrains posted:

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I have three individual loops, usually providing power to each from and individual brick. 

If you have an individual brick for each loop, seems you're all set.  Curious why the interest in sharing bricks/controllers?

For your example of running 2 subways on 2 loops using 1 brick/controller, then don't both subways do the same thing...with overlapping station announcements and such.  That is, it seems separate bricks/controller guarantees adequate power for each loop and maximum flexibility in what each is doing?

Z-500 bricks are only 50 watts, so you're talking about three amps of power.  It's quite possible that two trains will exceed that on a pretty regular basis.  I'm with Stan, what is the drive to eliminate power to the tracks?  Usually, people are looking to go the other way.

Also, if you're running conventional, how exactly are you running two separate trains with one transformer without all sorts of gymnastics?

Agreed with the above- the controllers marked Z-500, Z-750, Z-100 are for the 50, 75 and 100 watt MTH bricks only. Especially for earlier versions. MTH makes a "Railking controller set"(has the wrong picture) that I believe had a controller with purple "Z-controller" lettering such as the one pictured here . Anyway, that controller could control any of the 650, 75 or 100 watt bricks. 

You said that you don't run "full DCS", I see a DCS remote commander in the background- is that what you meant?

Thanks for your answers.

I have three loops of track, train on each track. I only, at present, have two controllers, both Z500s. I have the bricks that came with them, but also a Z1000 brick --but that controller is broken. So, I have been connecting two tracks to one of the controllers and using the z1000 brick and running subways in auto mode. I won't do that anymore: I'll use the z500s. My local hobby shop has a z750, so I'll buy that so I have three controllers if I want to run three subways.

And yes--I don't have a full DCS set up. When I run regular, non subway trains, I use the DCS explorer that came with a starter kit, or the old infra red hand controller so I can trigger the PSA.

I found the above mentioned controller with purple lettering on ebay, but it says it's only rated for the z500 or z750 bricks. I can't find just the controller for the z1000 brick, so it looks like I'm out of luck on that. I may use it to power an accessory or two, when I set them up.

I could buy the z4000, but it seems overkill. I have a very small layout that is basically table top loops. I change it up from time to time. The loops are really not big enough for more than a train per loop at a time, so the smaller controllers can handle the load.

Thanks for your help.

@pdxtrains posted:

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My local hobby shop has a z750, so I'll buy that so I have three controllers if I want to run three subways

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Do they have the 40-1000B Z-controller in stock?  The following is from the MTH website:

If you buy "only" the Z-750 controller, it will only support the Z-500 (50 Watts) bricks you have but NOT the Z-1000 brick (100 Watts).  Since you already have the Z-1000 brick, wouldn't you want a controller that can take advantage the additional power?  Perhaps someone who knows something can definitively state that you can use the Z-750 controller to supply 100 Watts of control from the Z-1000 brick.

On eBay, if you look at "sold" transactions, the Z-controller goes for about 1/2 of MSRP... so around $40-50 (shipping included in that).

BTW, what are you going to do with your broken Z-controller?  If you lived in walking distance (I'm in south pdx by the I-5, 217 interchange), I'd pick it up while walking the dog and see if I could fix it - at no charge to you of course!  As I see it, if you can get one for less than $40, it's not worth two-way shipping plus parts/labor to a repair center.

Hi Stan:

Thanks for your offer, but I'm not walking distance from you--I'm in SE near Reed. I have to check if I even still have the broken unit. If so, I could just mail it to you for you to tinker with if that works. If you can fix it, I'll pay the postage back.

I have plenty of 50 Watt bricks from starter sets I've bought. I'll look for a used controller for the 100 Watt brick. 50 Watts per loop track will be plenty of power for me, since it's one train per loop.

Ron at HobbySmith here in town has the 750, and I'd like to throw some business there since HS must be hurting. My biggest concern with the 750 is that it's the 6amp version and not the 4amp. I understand they changed it since they had problems. I also want to be sure it's putting out 18 volts, since I'm reading that some of the 750s have had problems. It's been in the shop for years I think, so I just want to be sure it works properly.

I weighed a controller and too heavy for 1st Class postage so would be ~$10 to ship it a few miles across town which just doesn't seem right.   I say apply the $10 to a replacement controller.

While I'm all for supporting your LHS, I'm still thinking you should consider the "universal" Z-controller which can handle the Z-500, Z-750, and Z-1000.  I've been reading about the MTH business goings-on and I'm figuring any new owner might simplify or thin the product line offering just the Z-Controller...since it can support any of the bricks.  Just my 2 cents but am thinking about long-term support and such...

OTOH, if anyone has a broken Z-1000 controller and is willing to pony up postage to Oregon, I'd do a troubleshooting teardown and post any discoveries and photos for the good of the OGR community.