Trick to removing caboose shell from frame?

Pic or catalog number...? Work caboose or SP, or something else?

CheckHERE to identify which one you have.

If this is a basic SP type caboose w/ no screws, then a metal tab punched into the frame at each railing must be bent up to release the cab.

If this is post-1969 with plastic railings, then the railings unsnap at the bottom from slots in the cab, which will release the floor/chassis.

Rich,

The 24610 has a stamped sheet metal frame held on by small barbs that engage a hole in the bottom portion of the doors on the ends.  Look carefully, and you'll see the holes.  To remove the frame, you have to bend the metal barbs inward with a very small punch or drift.  The sheet metal isn't all that thick, but care must be used.  If you bend it just a little, you will disengage the barb and can remove that end of the frame, allowing the frame to be removed entirely from the body shell.  Once removed, you can replace the frame with something older, but you will also have to fabricate or install different end rails and ladders.

Good luck!  Here's a photo from the Gilbert Gallery, taken by Rhett George:

I too have a question.  I have a PW  AF caboose #630, and want to add LED lighting.  However, I cannot figure how to get the 4 pins out of each corner to take the shell off from the frame.  I tried pulling them with needle nose pliers.  Any ideas?

 

 

 

 

Ahh, flyer... did not see that in the forum title... I can't help you there without digging out a big box of "S"... too busy under the tree tonight!

I'm thinking a dremel grind wheel or cut off disc, but may have to drill out the truck rivets first to access those pins.   Somewhere I read they are pressure inserted brass pins.

Rob, If I remember, last week I saw a pic of you working on your Christmas layout.   If so, perhaps post some pics when finished???  I believe your were using tubular track.

 

Drummer3 posted:

I too have a question.  I have a PW  AF caboose #630, and want to add LED lighting.  However, I cannot figure how to get the 4 pins out of each corner to take the shell off from the frame.  I tried pulling them with needle nose pliers.  Any ideas?

Put a soldering iron on the pin for a bit to just soften the plastic, then grab it with the pliers, should pull right out.

DRUMMER3

Follow Johns instructions, no need for a grinder. After heating pin for a short time apply a little pressure by pulling on the chassis to start the pin out, this will give a little more pin to grip with the pliers. You will see as you pull on the chassis some of the pins will come straight out and some rotate slightly as they back out.

Ray

 

Thanks for the responses. Jerry, that was the ticket, thanks!

Rich

AS for the 24610, there is no need to bend the frame, just slip a thin knife between the shell and the metal base, lifting the shell away from the little barb that holds it together. To put the shell back on, just press it down and it will snap into place. As for putting an earlier frame on it, it may have posts in the corners for the pin, but you'll have to add the fence ends, and the slots to hold them on are filled on the later shell, so that will take some clever work to put them in.

Thanks David. I bought a custom painted Royal Blue caboose from Marty's trains (that's why I'm even bothering with it) otherwise I wouldn't spend the effort. It would probably be easier to add pickup wheels and a socket to the 24610 chassis then deal with the fence end challenge.

Rich

Well, not many know about it, but there is one version of the 930 caboose that is made with the later frame (built-in fences) with a light in it. The socket is riveted to the frame, and instead of a "snap on" fit, there is a screw at one end through the hole the barbs sit in, so you take the screw out and drop the frame from that end to change the bulb. This should be a simple modification to do to any of these frames--drill out the barb to hold a typical plastic tender body screw (I don't remember the S- number) and voila! the other end of the frame is held in with the typical barb. You can use a plastic steamer shell headlight socket and bracket to do this.

traindavid posted:

Well, not many know about it, but there is one version of the 930 caboose that is made with the later frame (built-in fences) with a light in it. The socket is riveted to the frame, and instead of a "snap on" fit, there is a screw at one end through the hole the barbs sit in, so you take the screw out and drop the frame from that end to change the bulb. This should be a simple modification to do to any of these frames--drill out the barb to hold a typical plastic tender body screw (I don't remember the S- number) and voila! the other end of the frame is held in with the typical barb. You can use a plastic steamer shell headlight socket and bracket to do this.

I think this version was available only during 1957. I have one in one of my 20325 sets (Union Pacific freight with the 372). There's one on eBay at the time of this writing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Americ...4:g:C2YAAOSwT~9WlS8o

This version has tended to get kind of "pricey" recently. As such, it probably wouldn't make sense to cannibalize one just to get the chassis.

 There's also a set for sale like mine with the unique caboose:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Americ...0:g:L4cAAOSwiDFYMk3t

Uh oh, I'd better make myself clear here; I was NOT suggesting modifying one of the original 930 versions, but giving a suggestion as to how one could easily add lighting to an inexpensive late model caboose. One thing I neglected to mention is that you'd have to insulate one truck (using the ACG stepped washer and flat washer as used on other illuminated cars). I received one of these cabooses in an assorted flyer stuff buy. Unfortunately the previous owner had decided to crudely repaint ONE of his AF cars into Milwaukee RR colors; one guess which one got the "treatment." I'm still contemplating how I might strip the repaint without destroying the original paint and lettering. It might not be possible.

Oh, and thinking about the light socket, a GP socket and bracket would work too, although they aren't as common. I wish mine was handy to look at, it's likely that's what ACG used on these cabooses. And YES, the original 930s like this are very uncommon; it's one of the "sleeper" collectables.

traindavid posted:

Uh oh, I'd better make myself clear here; I was NOT suggesting modifying one of the original 930 versions, but giving a suggestion as to how one could easily add lighting to an inexpensive late model caboose.

Gotcha. I posted the link to the 930 on eBay so folks could see the way the light setup looked externally and that the railings were a match to the other "late" Gilbert offerings.

In the original post Rich mentions using a "die-cast" chassis, I'm pretty sure the die-cast chassis was only available on link coupler cars, though the sheet metal frame mounts in a similar manner and is readily common and affordable.

Depending on how deeply into the conversion of his 24610 Rich wants to go, I recall that the "standard" cupola style cabooses manufactured by Lionel could provide an easy conversion. The lighted versions use a twist-in lamp socket and the short railings and mounting system similar to the 24610. A couple variations even have the animated brakeman. I've seen several of these sell on eBay at bargain prices.

Craig, Good point, I hadn't thought about the Flyonel bases, but that would be a very easy way to do the "conversion." I just don't like the looks of the re-tooled trucks.

This all sounds like a LOT of work for such a plain caboose (24610).  But who am I to talk?  I've spend many hours and a few bucks doing much the same thing rescuing things from junk boxes.  And don't get me started on the custom repaints and "phantoms" I've done!  The whole thing boils down to doing what you want with your trains and what makes you happy.

@ADCX Rob posted:

Pic or catalog number...? Work caboose or SP, or something else.....

If this is a basic SP type caboose w/ ....

If this is post-1969 with plastic railings, then the railings unsnap at the bottom from slots in the cab, which will release the floor/chassis.

Very old thread, but after spending some minutes trying to open a new to me old SP type caboose with plastic railings, Google found this and your information helped me get this thing open. (I wanted to know if the shell was cast in color or painted before I try to remove lettering.) Thank you @ADCX Rob for your help!

John