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I'm working on a small single table portable layout.  First time I'm trying Supersnap track.  Pretty nice.

 

Because it's portable, I wanted to hardwire the building lights for quick setup.  Usually I use 14v incandescent bulbs and screw them in "on location".  I decided to order some of the 3 LED gizmos and permanently mount them where the buildings will be placed.  I put a bridge rectifier on the 12 volt accessory feed to the layout and it output about 10.5 volts DC, just right for these lights.

 

Installed: sticky tape provided on back, wires thru small hole

P1040764

On at 10.5 volts

P1040763

The town square, illuminated

P1040757

I bought the "warm white" version and they are indiscernible from the incandescent bulbs, color-wise.  All bulbs are stuck to layout and buildings placed over them - works well for a quick setup, and interchangeable buildings.  The lights in the buildings are not used.

 

... and think of all the energy I'm saving.

 

Hope this may give you some ideas!

Ed

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  • P1040764
  • P1040763
  • P1040757
Last edited by eddiem
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Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Hard to beat the price, I think I have four or five rolls of them.  I also have about 30 passenger cars still waiting on conversion!

 

Sounds like you need to spend more time on conversions! LOL

 

Come on John, bite the bullet and knock them out in a weekend!

Just to clarify a bit... these are NOT the 5meter 300LED strips of lights.  They are 3 leds encapsulated in a hard plastic strip with double stick tape on the back and wire leads attached to each. Screw holes on each end.  Please refer to my first picture.

 

on eBay, here's an example (at a good price!)  http://www.ebay.com/itm/321229240034

about 38 cents for a 3LED strip

 

IMPORTANT: I used WARM WHITE.  They look like incandescent.  The cool white ones have a bluish tint to them, but also look good.  Just a matter of taste.

 

They look like this:

 

3led

 

When I cut them apart, I left the grey and white leads on one end so I could splice a longer wire to connect to DC.

 

The bridge rectifiers look like this.

 

 

bridgerect

 

The ones I ordered are:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-20A...;hash=item19c856350b

about 78 cents each

 

I only used one for the layout... Rated at 20 amps!  Converts AC to DC, so a DC (like HO) transformer is not needed.

 

I connect my 12V AC accessory feed on the layout to the bridge AC connections, then connect the DC connections on the bridge to the LED strips (making sure + and - are right.  Output measured at about 10.5 volts.

 

Ed

 

... credit goes to Lee for first finding them!

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  • 3led
  • bridgerect
Last edited by eddiem

Spence,

 

I never tried them on AC... noted the advertised title, the 12V DC markings, and the 2 colored wires and just figured to go DC.

 

I wanted less than 12V to calm them down a bit, so the 10.5 volts from the rectifier worked well.  Also read something about flicker on AC, but will have to try mine to see what I see!

 

Ed

 

 

Note that LED's have a fairly low reverse voltage specification, in the 5-7 volt range.  If you're running on 12 volts AC, you have around 17 volts peak reverse voltage on the strips.  There are three LED's in series on each strip, so they're getting close to 6V reverse voltage on each.  It may be a problem after some time, hard to say.  I run them on DC.

 

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