Truck recommendation please

My two top choices are Athearn plain bearing trucks, and then MTH plain bearing trucks. Both track VERY well and are free rolling.

I agree with HW.  In running 15 - 40 car trains on the DSMR layout, we never had troubles with Athearn or Weaver trucks.  We did require that any plastic wheelsets be swapped out for metal wheelsets.  We gave our trains quite a workout because they ran for hours around a 2000' layout with grades and super-elevated curves.

FWIW, the only trucks we had trouble with, were a set of plastic T-Section Bettendorfs, which broke exactly as the prototype trucks did.

ChipR 

Yes.  Go with the Athearn trucks and replacement metal wheelsets.  Intermountain wheelsets work perfectly.  Good opportunity to also standardize to some extent this choice of truck as well.

I use the Athearn trucks "as is" in most cases and have no problems.   They roll really well, and are not very expensive.

I'd add Intermountain's plastic Bettendorf's to Martin's Athearns. I like their look as they have brake shoes and the plastic springs  when weathered look more like beefy prototype springs than the lightweight ones on sprung trucks.  Either truck will give years of service at a great price. My reasons for metal wheels:

• the bright burnished tread looks like the real deal
• less crud buildup on wheels and rail

Downsides is noise and cost - but the IM metal wheel sets are low cost.   

Ed Rappe

Ed, where are you buying your IM trucks from?

Thanks

Bob

I have only one problem with Athearn trucks, the friction coefficient is too low, in one point is good less load to the engine, but when you leave a car alone and the track is not perfect flat they move by itself causing troubles sometimes.

beside that they look perfect.

 I am using athearn with IM wheels ans is a perfect match.

Andre.

I have a blind spot on those Bettandorfs since I use almost no Bettandorf trucks - probably 90+% Archbar.

The IM wheelsets really are still a bargain; the plastic wheels do suffer from "crud" attraction.  I have found that the IM wheelsets in the Athearn trucks add significant free rolling characteristics to cars.  Cars that were otherwise stationery have been literally caught rolling off the test track towards the floor on what I had thought was a level bench.

They can be purchased directly from Intermountain. Some on-line retailers sell the wheels at a discount.  I got my trucks and wheels though a friend in the DC area O scale group.  He collected orders and negotiated a bulk buy discount.  Over the years we've made similar buys for track, turnout motors, DCC, buildings, and O scale figures - usually by dealing directly with the manufacturer.  Bulk buys pay off if you can make the quantity interesting to the seller.

Ed Rappe  

Mr. Beard,

Maybe I should have placed this in the buy and sell portion.  Just seemed appropriate, at the time.

If you're interested, I have about 100 pair of Intermountain trucks still on their sprues.  Obviously, they'll need to be assembled.  No wheels (didn't come with them) so you'd have to provide those but I see them on ebay all the time.

To answer a question from someone else, I don't have to sell all 100 pair to one person.

Jay

Where do you guys buy your Athearn Trucks from? My understanding is that Athearn was no longer producing stuff for O scale. Can these be only obtained through the used market?

Thanks

Yves

Another vote for Intermountain trucks & wheels.  IM and San Juan make what are probably the most detailed plastic trucks for a reasonable price.  Rails Unlimited has IM at discount prices.

Allan

Thanks guys.  Lots of good info for shopping.  One more thing, if I may.  At this same giant garage sale I bought a box of steel wheels (stopped counting after 220) and a box (100+) of 3" long axle shaft blanks (SS) all for $20.00 from the same guy I got the old car kits from, said he was cleaning out his Dad's workshop/barn.  The shafts are all .1248 on the micrometer.  Can you buy just truck frames with no wheels or detail kits/components for trucks and make them yourself?

Just starting out, I may be jumping into the deep end too fast with this idea.  Any opinions?

Bluebeard,

I thought that what I was offering.

Jay

If you bought the wheels off the axle, you will need a wheel press, or you will learn to live with wobbly wheelsets.

I prefer steel wheelsets, but got some from Henry Pearce and found that I needed to build fixtures to press them properly.  I have found that plastic, die cast, brass, and especially sintered iron wheelsets love crud.  Sometimes I have to cut it off with a knife.

Yves,

Plastic Athearn trucks can still be found, but prices vary wildly. I have found Horizon Hobby to be the most consistent, about $8.99 pair. The do show up on auction and swap meets, but again prices swing wide. For me it is automatic to replace the plastic wheelsets with the metal IM wheelsets. A great combination.

Apologies, had not clicked in until I just re-read to write down info for searching.

Are these truck frames complete parts sets or do I need to buy other components (not couplers) to complete the truck frame? (bolsters, shims, little detail parts etc.)?  Are these plastic or cast? I am interested.  Thank you.

Would you mind recommending a brand of this press or a nudge in the right direction of where to buy a good one?

Jay,

If you would email me with the particulars, I am interested.

Thank you.

I would like to but I don't have your email address.

Jay

criswell at pac . net

I machine cups for the lathe, and press them between centers.  All Nation had a special arbor press set up to do the work.  There is no commercial market for such things, so you cannot buy them.  Best to eBay the parts, and buy finished wheelsets.

I had significant problems with rim- insulated GG1 drivers, and wound up making a grinding attachment for the lathe, grinding each tire to true concentricity.  If the axle has a big enough shoulder, this seems to be less of a problem.

You might be able to do the work with a milling or drill press vise and a larger drill press.  Something with a quill strong enough to supply the required pressure without being damaged.  The milling or drill press vise the hold the axle perfectly vertical.

Jay

I tried that first.  I do use the drill press for drivers on shouldered axles.  Freight car wheels are a special problem.

Bob,

I use these for P48 and I made one just like it for regular O Scale.

http://www.protocraft.com/cate...=23&Categoryid=5

Jay

Okay.  I like that.  Does it bend the axle if the initial press does not go well?

Only when I'm not careful.  Sometimes I use the little vise that Micro-Mark sells.  There is a vertical "V" notch right in the center.  I clamp the axle so it's right in said notch.  That assures the axle is perpendicular to the wheel (everything is at 90 degrees).  I always start with the non insulated wheel first figuring that's the one that's going to give me the most grieve.  Once it's pressed onto the axle about where I want it I just remove it from the vise, turn it over, insert the gauge block, press on the insulated wheel till it touches the gauge block and make any adjustment required afterwards.  Sometimes one side of the axle sticks out too far so I leave the gauge block in place and press the axle to it's proper location.  Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 times before you get it centered just right.

There are probably better ways but this works for me most times.

Often times when I order wheels & axles in bulk from NWSL I tell the to just send the parts and I'll assemble them.  Sometimes it speeds up the order and once or twice I got a better price break.

Jay