Twin Pines RailRoad

@Aegis21 posted:

Thanks Dave I cleaned it up with your help

Unfortunately, that didn’t work because somehow the photos all disappeared. It probably looks okay on your computer because the photos are on it, but they’re no longer part of the post and I don’t know why.

John, I am running code 148 2 rail track for the trolley. The profile is about half the size of our O gauge track. It will need to be supported. Yes, the elevation is 10 inches. I might think about printing a little shorter so they can be placed on a base (for fine tuning height) but not sure about that. How long are your girder sections, that would give me an idea of configuration.  The 10 inch height is a result of wanting 8 inches clearance above the track and 1 1/2 inches of foam on top of the cross supports. 

I have not as yet decided on exact track placement in this location, but its likely I can get away with pillars against the wall but then have to have varying widths of girders between the posts to avoid the tracks below.  I really need to lay this out before I go much further.

Funny I have really not been happy with my limited space and the resulting track plan. Its taken nearly 2 years to accept the facts and then keep tweaking the plan to develop a level of interest for running trains.  Then poof motivation sets in - go figure. 

The trolley concept is helping move this along, in addition to the grain terminal with rail and barge loading.  Otherwise running trains in a circle would not be much fun after 30 seconds. My grandson was happy with running a short consist for about 10 minutes. Of course we had to turn out the lights to run at night. He was fascinated with my passenger cars in the yard which lit up when we applied power. I have not as yet installed switches to power off selectively the 7 yard tracks. Lighting seems to create a lot of interest for the kids. I have yet to install my lighting controls for the town.

I like the Trolley line Jeff. Should look great when it's done.

I've toyed with adding an around the walls trolley above my layout.

Bob

@ogaugenut

I found this website to be helpful  

https://www.deerfieldriverlaser.com/Boats.html

i used their kit to build this barge. I had to modify it and add three sections because the accessory would only work with the supplied sprue. The two end bins are Lionel #206 coal.

@ScoutingDad posted:

John, I am running code 148 2 rail track for the trolley. The profile is about half the size of our O gauge track. It will need to be supported. Yes, the elevation is 10 inches. I might think about printing a little shorter so they can be placed on a base (for fine tuning height) but not sure about that. How long are your girder sections, that would give me an idea of configuration.  The 10 inch height is a result of wanting 8 inches clearance above the track and 1 1/2 inches of foam on top of the cross supports.

Girder sections can be from 2 inches to 11 inches And the 10 inch height I think would require a wider stance and some bracing to ensure stability.

I have not as yet decided on exact track placement in this location, but its likely I can get away with pillars against the wall but then have to have varying widths of girders between the posts to avoid the tracks below.  I really need to lay this out before I go much further.  And the lengths can vary to what you need in the range of 2 to 11 inches

Funny I have really not been happy with my limited space and the resulting track plan. Its taken nearly 2 years to accept the facts and then keep tweaking the plan to develop a level of interest for running trains.  Then poof motivation sets in - go figure.  I have relatively a large area and it is too small, must be part of the O scale hobby. lol

The trolley concept is helping move this along, in addition to the grain terminal with rail and barge loading.  Otherwise running trains in a circle would not be much fun after 30 seconds. My grandson was happy with running a short consist for about 10 minutes. Of course we had to turn out the lights to run at night. He was fascinated with my passenger cars in the yard which lit up when we applied power. I have not as yet installed switches to power off selectively the 7 yard tracks. Lighting seems to create a lot of interest for the kids. I have yet to install my lighting controls for the town.  Yes, as a kid I was and still love the darkened layout that is light up!

Following on my post on WDYDOYL covering a new retaining wall, here are a few details on how this was created. I needed to cover 15 feet of wall and did not want to spend that much on the prefab flexible sheets - but they look really nice - I was tempted.

Image of 2 sections in place but unfinished.

Close up of the stone detail. The top is scribed to resemble a cap stone. Once in place I will go back and detail the cap stone seams. I prefer to change the brick widths as little as well as gouge out bits here and there.

Going in reverse order - I found it easier to scribe the first couple of rows to give an idea on size. After that I skipped rows to make sure the joints were roughly aligned. I like to use a tapered clay modeling tool here as it easier to clear out the space between the bricks. Using a hobby knife can achieve similar results. The tool has a slight "v" shape to it.

I have done the lay down the straight edge and scribe each individual line in the past. It works, its  tedious and I rarely get the horizontal lines parallel. Below is a simple scribing tool for consistent horizontal lines. I did get a little bit of wander but that is a technique thing. Presumably each nail is 3/8 of an inch apart. Did not use a drill press so its clear I did not drill each hole straight. The drywall butts against the stop and multiple light passes are drawn across the drywall to the desired depth.

The drywall here is 2 1/2 inches tall. The top of the image will be the bottom so the bit of variance will not be noticeable.

A sample run showing the paper removed from the drywall. I still have to get better at this, but try not to soak the underside of the drywall paper you do not want to remove. I found anything more than 16 inches long is asking for trouble as the material cracks easily - it has to be supported along its entire length. Most of my finished sheets have at least one crack, but it closes cleanly and is not apparent unlike below. The material holds water and stays damp for quite a while. I got the paper off after 4 wet and peel attempts. I would be better to apply the water and cover with a damp rag to help the water penetrate - but who has time for that??? A steel scrubbing pad was most helpful in removing the final layer of paper. This pad is just a bunch of steel turning gathered into a pad - I 've seen them out of stainless steel and copper in the kitchen/cleaning area.

Hope you find this helpful - I had one of those "why did I not think f that moment" when first told of this modeling technique.  Supposedly guys use this for HO scale buildings. Cannot imagine the time involved. 

Jeff that looks great! I thank you for sharing how you did this, I would have never thought of using a board with nails!

Nice description of your work, Jeff.  That’s quite a handy tool.  My daughter gave me a bunch of that type clay, but I haven’t done anything with it yet.  I guess you have shown me how.