Union Station Products-Passenger Car Components

I bought an USP kit for a Seaboard Air Line 10-6 sleeper.  While I finally got it together on the 2nd one, I was disappointed overall.

IMO, the one-piece wrap that's used for the sides and roof is fine for small scale, but for O-scale it's too much work to get on perfectly, I ruined it my 1st attempt.  I kept getting what looked like bubbles/warping under the roof:

On my 2nd attempt (with another wrapper) I used an OK Engines aluminum shell that I had cut per my specs, cut the roof separate from the sides on the USP wrapper, and glued them to the OK Engines shell so they would line up:

Here's a photo of the real car:

The final result was acceptable if not perfect:

I also made my own floor from 3/16" acrylic plastic and my own ends/bulkheads.

Combining the OK Engines aluminum shell with the USP wrapper (and ends, if you don't ruin them like I did) is a great combination.  Easy to work on, strong, and heavy enough for O-scale.  I finsihed mine off with a pair of Lionel 4-wheel trucks.

I tried to get Scott to include the Pullman 10-6 "PORTSMOUTH" (vice the Budd 10-6) Sleeper in the Silver Meteor set but it would have required a different extrusion due to the fluting being different between Budd and Pullman.

Which ever way you go have plenty of patience and clamps on hand.  I forget what kind(s) of glue(s) I tried, but I think the final one was Gorilla super glue, I'll have to check my notes and emails.

I don't know if USP sells just the wrapper alone or if you have to be the whole kit.  At the time their website didn't specifically say and I ended up with a confusing issue with them.  Got it straightened out, but I would email them first.

On the other hand...you could give their kit a go and see if your results are better than mine.

I like the idea, and if USP and OK Engines would get together and offer a combined kit I feel that would be the best thing possible for a car that is not currently offered by anyone else (and maybe increase their sales base).  By the time you add an interior (Delta Models), you're talking over GGD prices.  But again, you can possibly get a car not offered by any other company.

Bob,

Thanks for all the great photos and details.  It never occurred to me to combine the USP sides and OK Engines  shells.  Great idea.  One of my concerns was the sides in O Scale would be to 'flimsy' without some sort of support (ie, OK Engines shells).  After doing some 'youtube research' I noticed guys in HO combining USP with Walthers or some other type of donor car. 

The acrylic base would be a strong foundation.  I was going to use brass but I think I'll use your idea-easier to work with.  Weight can always be added if needed. 

I'll have to order one and see how large the windows are in the cars I want to model.  I don't want to do any interiors but may not have a choice...

You also addressed the trucks-I was thinking something similar with NWSL wheels.  I'll have to see what is available other than PSC, etc...

I hoped to be under $150 a car but I'm over that now.  Interiors will significantly raise the cost! 

However, I could finally have some accurate UP passenger cars and to build several different trains for the era I want to model.  And, it's still cheaper than brass cars. 

Thanks for your time/help. Appreciate it.

Aaron

Aaron,

I had 2-rail wheels on the car, but right now they're 3-rail.  Since I'm converting to 2-rail using ME code 148 track both my 3-rail and 2-rail wheels run fine on it.

The USP wrapper is thin, but once on the body shell (USP or OK Engines) it should last thru normal handling.

If you go with the USP wrapper and OKE shell, get the wrapper first and do a tracing of where the windows and doors are, then you can clean it up, put some measurements on it, and email it to Ted Brebeck at OK Engines to see what he'll charge for the shell cut to your specs.

I sent him a simple drawing with some dimensions on it and he cut the window openings based on that:

I made a slight miscalculation on mine, the door window on the top diagram should have been a bit lower, but it came out alright.  Measure twice, cut once!!!  A metal file took care of it.  If you get the OKE shell, make sure the sides are fairly flat before putting the wrapper on, may need to tweak them with a soft mallet (or mention it to Ted to make sure they're flat before he sends it to you).

Here's a photo of another OK car (coach) with the 3/16" acrylic floor and some material added at each end to mount the Kadee couplers at the correct height and fill in the rear of the car:

You can see the 2 rails the floor rests against.  The gray box with the button on it is the on/off switch for a string of LEDs.

Here's a shot of one of the ends I made:

It's just a piece of styrene with some strips added to it and a door window cut out.  I made the non-vestibule end a snug fit so I could pop it out in order to slide the floor on on the rails.  The vestibule end has the inner and outer bulkheads glued in place, with 2 screws in the bottom of the inner bulkhead holding the floor in its place:

I used strips of clear styrene for windows and simply taped them in place along the inside.

Oh yeah, interiors will double the price of your car.  Overall worth it knowing you'll have a car that is correct for your RR and with interior.  Bill Basden at Delta Models did me up a nice interior for this Pullman 10-6 (which i need to get to work on!).

We also have interiors for passenger cars as well as under body details. Complete interior kits will be available in about a month.

Scale City Designs posted:

We also have interiors for passenger cars as well as under body details. Complete interior kits will be available in about a month.

I've been looking at your site the past few days...finally got off the pot and placed an order!!!

I would have ordered some Seaboard Air Line Seat Headrest Covers but I didn't see any.  There's a topic somewhere talking about them and I posted a couple of photos.

Scale City Designs posted:

We also have interiors for passenger cars as well as under body details. Complete interior kits will be available in about a month.

The possibilities with under body details are endless.  I might do a few simple, noticeable items and call it good.

The timing will be good when the complete interiors are available.  By then I should know what I need if I have to do interiors.

Again, thank you all for the suggestions/help/ideas. 

Aaron

Bob Delbridge posted:

Aaron,

I had 2-rail wheels on the car, but right now they're 3-rail.  Since I'm converting to 2-rail using ME code 148 track both my 3-rail and 2-rail wheels run fine on it.

The USP wrapper is thin, but once on the body shell (USP or OK Engines) it should last thru normal handling.

If you go with the USP wrapper and OKE shell, get the wrapper first and do a tracing of where the windows and doors are, then you can clean it up, put some measurements on it, and email it to Ted Brebeck at OK Engines to see what he'll charge for the shell cut to your specs.

I sent him a simple drawing with some dimensions on it and he cut the window openings based on that:

I made a slight miscalculation on mine, the door window on the top diagram should have been a bit lower, but it came out alright.  Measure twice, cut once!!!  A metal file took care of it.  If you get the OKE shell, make sure the sides are fairly flat before putting the wrapper on, may need to tweak them with a soft mallet (or mention it to Ted to make sure they're flat before he sends it to you).

Here's a photo of another OK car (coach) with the 3/16" acrylic floor and some material added at each end to mount the Kadee couplers at the correct height and fill in the rear of the car:

I'm really glad to see this thread, as I've wanted to build some of these USP cars since they were announced in O scale.  Saw an "S" scale kit that converted the American Models cars to the correct window arrangement and even those finished cars left a bit to be desired. Very disappointed in the roof of your 1st build Bob and I'm sure you did it right.

They just started offering a "core kit" to go with their wrappers, does anyone have any experience building cars using their "core kit". Not so good that you have to buy another manufactures shell just to install the USP wrapper on it.  

BH

up148 posted:

I'm really glad to see this thread, as I've wanted to build some of these USP cars since they were announced in O scale.  Saw an "S" scale kit that converted the American Models cars to the correct window arrangement and even those finished cars left a bit to be desired. Very disappointed in the roof of your 1st build Bob and I'm sure you did it right.

They just started offering a "core kit" to go with their wrappers, does anyone have any experience building cars using their "core kit". Not so good that you have to buy another manufactures shell just to install the USP wrapper on it.  

 

BH

I have read on other post his core kit is OK for the smaller scales, but not for O scale. When I first saw one finally I also came to that conclusion. If you are building a Budd car you could start with an Atlas CZ car and change out the sides. there was a company I think who was making a one piece roof casting.  contact me off the list and I will give you more information. the sample was promising.

Bob

kanawha posted:

Bob,

 This is a terrific idea and I think your second attempt with the OK shell worked out very well. I've done one of the USP cars using just their sides and an old American Lightweight Car Company kit for the car's core and am currently working on another. However your technique looks like it will make a very sturdy car. A few questions:

- Are the OK cars completely smooth? No flutings on the sides or roof?

Ken, the shell I bought was smooth, didn't have to remove anything.  Here's a photo of the car before I put the USP roof on, you can see the smooth roof:

Email Ted, he should know which one you need.  I believe it's P/N K001 and specify a smooth body.

- About how much extra does OK charge to mill out their sides?

I don't recall any extra charge for cutting the shell per my drawing.  Here's the blurb from their catalog:

To further that idea, we developed a custom service where our HO and
O gauge cars may be made to your specifications of door and window
placement. This makes your train more realistic in scale than the “toy” products
offered by other companies. Each modelers’ lay-out is unique and this
service can produce needed cars for an unlimited number of roads modeled.

- I've seen "wrappers" mentioned on the USP website and wasn't real clear what was meant. Is a wrapper just one big piece of styrene with both sides and the roof and all you do is wrap it around the car body? I don't see anything on your end view picture to indicate the wrap and the body are separate pieces as they appear to fit together so tightly.

- The USP side kits I got have the skirting milled in and the side flutes are separately applied pieces. Was this the case with the wrapper you used, that is was the fluting for the skirts and roof milled in and you had to apply the side fluting?

Yes, one piece wrapper.  They offer their own "Core Kits" which the wrapper goes around as one piece, but that's where I had the trouble.  On my 2nd attempt I cut the sides away from the roof.  The wrapper comes as a smooth piece with the skirting lasered in as well as windows and door lasered in, the fluting is separate styrene pieces that are glued onto the wrapper.

- How did you keep everything lined up and square when you were applying the wrap?

THAT is the tricky part.  I had a load of clamps that I used and did a dry run plenty of times before I applied super glue to the smooth surface of the aluminum shell.  Wouldn't have been possible if I had left the wrapper as a single piece.

Measure 3 times, cut once!!!  Use the thinnest blade possible so as much material as you can get will remain.

I put the sides on first, then the roof.  Don't think there's a right/wrong way, just make sure nothing slides around.

Ken

For anyone doing this...if you find out that USP will offer JUST the wrapper, let us all know.  I'd like to do another but don't want to buy the core kit to do it.  I put enough $$$ into the first one without having to buy parts I ended up not using.

Now that I look at that photo again, you can see that the door window ended up a bit high (the top edge of the hole is just visible above the side wrapper).  The roof covered it nicely so it came out looking good.

Bob D.,

The way I understand the web site information you can buy the wrappers and core kit separately. 

Now, if I just had that laser cutter I could buy 'blanks' from OK and cut my own

Bob H.,

I'm also interested in the roofs, please hit my email in profile.

Butch,

I'm going to email you about a few things.  Appreciate your help if you have any info.

Aaron

up148 posted:

I'm really glad to see this thread, as I've wanted to build some of these USP cars since they were announced in O scale.  Saw an "S" scale kit that converted the American Models cars to the correct window arrangement and even those finished cars left a bit to be desired. Very disappointed in the roof of your 1st build Bob and I'm sure you did it right.

They just started offering a "core kit" to go with their wrappers, does anyone have any experience building cars using their "core kit". Not so good that you have to buy another manufactures shell just to install the USP wrapper on it.  

 

BH

Butch,

Here's photos of the Core Kit I got:

Without clear "core" roof (only sides, roof frame, and ends):

With Clear Core Roof installed:

With Core Floor installed:

IMO for O-scale just a tad too lightweight, seems like I could easily warp/twist it in my hands.  With the wrapper on it was stiffer, but very light.  Using the OK Engines shell and my homemade 3/16" acrylic floor it's very strong/sturdy.

That's why I would like to see these 2 companies get together and offer kits comprised of the best features from both.  I like the USP wrapper and ends and I like the OK Engines shell, OK also offers a decent floor that's not quite as thick as the one I made.

They would just have to adjust their hole openings to match.

here is the picture of the one piece roof Resin casting I posted about. I think this combined with USP ends

and a floor would work great. I do not know if any were produced, or how far in has gone.

Bob

Thanks for posting this. I can never seem to get extruded kits too look right.. 

Been AWOL for a few days but back in action. Yep, this thread was very helpful in the do's and don'ts of building these kits. I really like that one piece resin roof as it should stiffen up the sides and end.

I didn't like the outcome of adding the USP sides over the American Models S scale passenger cars as the roof seams never lined up correctly in the models I saw.  The OK cars with overlays looks 100% better but it also could be the modeler who built the car too.

Look forward to seeing some of the end results.

Butch 

I just received my USP C&O 5 Dbrm lge Observation Car, looks like an lot of work, but the pictures that are shared, are greatly appreciated.