I have an original PS1 Allegheny that the board has gone bad in. I also have a new in the box PS2 upgrade kit from the first run made. Is there a file available for this and if so how could I find it.
thanks Mel
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
https://mthtrains.com/doc-sear...lassification%3A7042
narrow down the fields with what you want
you may want one of these two?
Joe, thanks for the reply. I found those on the MTH sight but was not sure which one I could use with my kit. I think mine is a 5-volt board in the first run of upgrade kits.
You could tell by the battery. I really don't think there were any 5 volt kits released? !!
If the battery is like 2 AA cells, it's a 3 volt. If it's like a 9 volt shape, it probably is a 5 volt.
The loaders won't load a 3 volt sound file into a 5 volt board!
It will give a message that it won't work I believe.
BTW: I am not a tech.
The PS-2 kit is a 3V board. So you will load a 3V or the upgrade 3V file. You do not want to follow the upgrade instructions, rather change the connectors on the new 3V board with the old ones from your 5V board. Change battery and harness with kit parts, and swap to the kit 4 ohm speaker. Mounting board will be custom as different foot print, but this will retain all the original features. G
George, it's a PS/1 locomotive he's upgrading. 
The thread starter's first post.
@Mel posted:I have an original PS1 Allegheny that the board has gone bad in. I also have a new in the box PS2 upgrade kit from the first run made. Is there a file available for this and if so how could I find it.
As a tip I picked up here when you install the kit replace all the lights with 3mm LEDs with a resistor on the annode (300-600 ohm will work depending on how bright you want the LEDs to be) and run the lights off the head lamp circuit. Annode on the LED goes to the purple wire on the head lamp lead. This way the locomotive will be completely dark until activated by the DCS remote. Otherwise all the lights except the head lamp will always be on.
You can even leave a couple of incandescent bulbs. You can safely run at least three 60ma incandescent bulbs off the headlight circuit. If you figure the LED with a 220 ohm resistor and a 9% PWM duty cycle at 20 V, it average current is less than 10ma. So, you can have a handful of LED's and a couple of incandescent bulbs, all on the headlight circuit.
The mix works as well. Sometimes incandescent is better than LEDs for a cab light or number board light. I've ended up using all LEDs with my stuff, and usually end up with 7 or 8. 470 ohm resistor for the headlamp and 560 ohm for the rest of the lights. I do ATSF and SP steam, which had bunches of lights. Eastern roads tend to just have headlamp, cab light, and firebox.
I can usually get number board lights to light well with LED's, and I like the fact there's no heat in what is sometimes a fairly tight space. Here's a pair of DD40AX dummies I recently lit for a forum member here. They got all LED's with a strobe simulator for the rooftop strobe.
Attachments
Mel, do you know the nature of the PS1 failure? Is it the "3 Clanks"? Or someo ther electrical failure on the board?
I just posted that I'm looking for any Ps1 Steam sound chip, I'd be interested in the chip if it's still good.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:I can usually get number board lights to light well with LED's, and I like the fact there's no heat in what is sometimes a fairly tight space. Here's a pair of DD40AX dummies I recently lit for a forum member here. They got all LED's with a strobe simulator for the rooftop strobe.
I used flangeless 3mm amber LEDs with diffused ends in the number boards on my ATSF Hudson project. The light diffused out pretty well. I was going to use warm white but for some reason the amber diffused better.
Attachments
Images (1)
The number boards in those locomotives got flat-top 5mm LED's and I sanded the face to scatter the light. They came out just right, bright enough to read them clearly in any light, but not looking like headlights. They had little light enclosures for the number boards, so I could stick them in the back and seal off all the light. I also balanced the light output from the red & green LED's. The red put out a lot more light for a given amount of current, so they got big resistors to dim them, and the green got lower values to give them more brightness. The red markers are running on 4ma, and the green ones are running on about 15ma. The red are still marginally brighter than the green, the efficiency difference between the two is pretty amazing.
Jeff,
Not three clanks board failure. Went dead while running.
George and John thanks for your help. Found kit yesterday and it is 3-volt
Could be simple bad harness or broken solder joint on engine PCB that harness plugs into. Common problem. G
