WBB GG1 trips breaker

Look very carefully at both motors inside the body and see if maybe one of the motor wires is being rubbed by the bottom of the flywheels. These wires come up and over into the top of the motor under the flywheel. This is sometimes the culprit.  I doubt you have a circuit board problem as these are generally bullit proof.

Rob

Also the bulbs in the passenger cars may be pulling too many amps. I had this happen with some older Lionel pass. Cars. They are not LEDs so reduce the number of cars and see what happens. 

WBB makes a two rail GG1?

Do you have switch tracks in the layout you are running the GG-1 on? If so it could be the side rail of the GG-1 hitting at a switch point. Sounds like something is shorting out, see where your engine stops as that may give you a clue as to what is happening. Look closely at the track to engine spacing. The last thing I can think of is using too small a curve radius, if WBB calls for 042 then you need to use that as the smallest curve with that engine.

 

I am using a Z-1000 with my Santa Fe twin powored A units(both A units have two motors or a total of four motors), a B unit with sound and seven lighted passenger cars.

So I doubt that a heating problem is occuring.

My Z-1000 is very quick to pop the breaker when a short happens.

 

Lee F.

To the best of my knowledge WBB makes only three rail items. Also WBB does not make brass engines.

If you use WBB items with two rail track, "Happy Shorting Out!!"

 

Lee F.

Hi Lee

Yes I know that  I was just kidding Pete as he is getting into two rail

Since you are just kidding, I guess Garfeild stays home and catches mice for me.

You need some humor every now and then.

 

Lee F.

I took the shell off, the GG1 ran for 34 minutes with no problems. the motors were very warm to the touch.

 

rob, all four tabs were not touching the flywheel.

 

ben, nice thought. but yes I still have some 3 rail trains that are going to my kids, I had to get my oldest a new train because my pacific will be going back up to weaver for conversion to 2 rail. (unless you want to buy it) but it won't be cheap.....

 

lee, It is running on O27 tube track with O42 curves, no switches...

Do you have a meter that measures current (amps)?

 

This may not be your problem but when I got home from work I decided to run my scale WBB GG-1 and it just stopped in the middle of a run like there was a short. I brought it to the bench and found one of the rollers were sticking in the up position causing the roller to short on the frame. I repositioned it a tad and oiled it at the pivot points and it was perfectly fine after that.

chris,

 

I looked at both rollers on mine and do not have that problem. as long as the shell is off it will run fine. but as soon as I put the shell back on, it will just stop with no warning and pop the breaker.

 

art, that is my next test to do. will let you know what I find out.

To me it sounds like you have a wire being pinched or pushed out of place with the shell on. Put the engine in nuetral with track power applied with the shell off and gently move the wires around, when one of the wires dims the lights that is probally the culprit.

I have seen wire harnesses go bad, but not in O gauge trains, however it could happen as compnies make things in China now.

 

Lee F.

I've seen the pickup wires with the insulation worn completely through and occasionally shorting on the frame.

I put the shell back on, set up my little test meter on one of the power feeds and was reading between 6.5 to 8 volts as the train went around the track. it ran for 25 minutes with no problems.

 

lee, I will try your suggestion. will let you know what i find.

 

john, will let you know if I see any bare wires and where.